absmiami

have you ordered your Resin Jag D yet fr Profil 24 ?????? oh, the storm ... luxuriating in air conditioning 100 miles north of Miami - house will be fine - whenever we get back - florida "gold coast' did much better than the Naples ft Myers area ...

these are some internet images of the Norton engine - showing the driver's left side of the engine

so the casting did not include the bottom of the crank case - which I am adding - it will poke out of the bottom of the engine bay - just some evergreen strip and liquid glue - then sanded and filed to shape and some initial crank case details - again fr bits of evergreen stock

hunkered down in Jupiter and still w power so here's an update w some work that was actually done a couple months ago the kit engine casting - a Norton Manx - is a two piece affair that shows its age but it's a start ...

oops gotta take an Irma break ! see you on the - other side .....

http://www.permagrit.com/index.php?cPath=80_82 free plug I use these files and rotary sanders to shape renshape they work fast and do not clog .... renshape doesn't like metal files .... accept to leave file markings for bead welds etc

the engine - where's the engine ? - needs an oil tank the tank in the Cooper Mark IX sat on the back of the frame - with it's cap peeking thru an opening in the tail as with the fuel tank - it was made from Renshape - shaped with files and sanding sticks the cap is one of the Deek's kit white metal parts

could you tow this to the Atlanta NNL South event this year ? would like to eyeball it thanks

the fuel tank sits on the frame rails with the fuel cap poking out of back of the nose cowling made from the block of renshape - files and sanding sticks .... brackets supporting the tank are made from evergreen "H" and "L" shaped stock - liquid glued renshape has no grain - so I can paint it alu or use some sort of foil - probably gonna paint

now have the front suspension brackets attached

now that the nose is sawed apart - you can see the difference in thickness of the merit molded plastic compared to the casting made by Guido of Scalekraft, once I did some thinning with some sanding drums easier to thin Guido's resin castings than the injected molded plastic used by Merit - and this allows me to add all this other stuff .... just viewed Randy's brass carbs in his GT40 build YIKES

attn. gramps ... have you perused the Profil24 website lately ? they are making a certain Jaguar kit you mite find tempting ... and in the correct scale ....

Dept of corrections II sometimes I lose the written posts sometimes I lose my mind oh well I have now corrected the roll bar height with some plastic and putty - visible with the brown rings the bar should now sit up close to the engine cover and right behind the top of the racing seat - I'll use the kit seat - which is quite good and now there is a hoie in the bottom of the shell - in case you wondered where the engine went - engine soon

Dept of Corrections : when the white metal front susp arms from the Deeks kit are attached - I saw that one of my chassis braces was mis-placed so I removed it and glued in a new brace that will sit directly below the front leaf spring brackets - which will be made fr Evergreen like the rear ones

the engine cover /tail in place for fit - with the brace ends jutting out to pick up the shock tubes the tail opening is for an oil tank filler cap - so I'll need to make an oil tank there I a gap between the engine cover and the top of the role bar - will have to correct this - the gap should be minimal

the brace in front of the leaf spring brackets acts as a chassis brace and pick up for the rear shocks evergreen bent at each end, filed and drilled

The brackets are then liquid glued on to the top frame rails now these rails are curved - down - and they don't run parallel - John Cooper was the last race car builder to rely on chassis tubes that bent every which way continued to do this for years on his grand prix cars - til his drivers, and his competitors, like Chapman, convinced him that this was not a real good idea .... - so the brackets are filed at odd angles and glued to the top rails with the strip sitting on the brackets to guide placement - that's where the leaf spring sits ...

So the rear leaf springs are perched on some brackets Made these out of some evergreen channel strips first glued back to back and then filed and drilled and filed again

today's photos : additional eng bay frame tubes plus a shot of the Merit rear susp kit part the uprights will be cut away and probably used in the model and the leaf spring will be made from brass strip or perhaps nickel silver also will make a transaxle "box" to hold the half shafts - probably got to scratch those too - we'll see the brackets supporting the leaf spring will magically appear in the next download

by the way - dogfish is there a certain beer that you are particularly fond of ?

time to add some engine bay frame tubes - still in catch up mode - this was done bout a month ago once again - evergreen and liquid glue the 3rd shot shows how well you can repair a body shell gap or break with renshape ...

suspension brackets from Evergreen strip front and rear - eight in total

beginning work on the rear frame and suspension pick-ups again Evergreen strip, files, saws, and liquid glue