MikeMc

sounds like a skins problem....a few prob with the "comfy" skin have surfaced

As Bill and James pointed out there are a few ways of doing it, I find one of the best ways is to mock the body/bed/and frame up. set it on a stack of cards and adj the height. With wheels and tires chosen put them under and start playing the cards. Once you have your stance chosen, then start looking how low your going.This will determine if moving axle mounts or more surgery will be needed. Another way is to kitbash a whole new frame/ powertrain and fit things in On this Cameo I used the frame/suspension from a Z06 vette On this Nova the spindles were cut and moved up: on this Elky both front and rear axels were adjusted up: and if you want to see a massive frame Z job.....all3 of these frames were Z'd: on this 32....the first one is stock front height, the second shows a Z up front. so heres some ideas for thought .....now get cuttin!!

Tower Hobbies lists Tenax as discontinued.

Jerry ...Make it easy on yourself.....12 Months of the blue ovals would work fine!!!

Toll ya George......Da Mojo is back!

Bob Downie did this test a while back ..on spoons http://public.fotki.com/grdeyed/model_cars-1/chrome-test/ curious if the spray is better or??

No it will work better for a time...then the plunger seal or the plastic mount around the needle will let go. From my old "bench" days I still have 2 20cc glass syringes..they work ok but are just too messy. I have been using a micro brush (yellow) to apply tenax and have been happy.

If the air inlet is at 12:00 front center then a "fuel"carbon fibre style mounted up front?????

Well I hate to tell you this...their both too tricky to build. Send me a PM and I'll getcha my address so I can build the rail first..no the gasser...OH Well!!

Jody, your not supposed to SAND over the script....been there, done that take a 1/4" square dowel of BALSA wood....a drop of thinner soaked in....gently rub and if you burnished right the script or emblem will pop!! Sweet flames!!!!

I like that...lift the alternator up ...slide it back a bit, fab up a wild intake up top.........

under glass!!

Ahhhhhhhhhh here??? http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22557&st=0&p=208314&hl=summer%20of%2069&fromsearch=1&#entry208314

Nuff said!!Keep it going!!

Id worry about it melting the body or the lurlok...don't use a plunger

I went thru the same thing and I think thats why this build was so much fun it was always something else!!

Thanks Gregg!!!!

I like this idea....it would let you mount the grill anywhere! When I built mine...I stuffed a 421 in it and ended up stretching the frame a tad...

A jewelers saw is great for small irregular cuts...like cutting out a seat back from the sides of an interior tub. Then if you want long straight cuts...Razor saw. Recommend the Zona brand....great quality. #11 bladeback...for opening trunks and doors with. Heres a Zona...Raul lent it to me!

Hey Billy....what motor you planning? You might have a clearance issue with the grill...

Where??

Great start.....lookin good! whats that under the door??

put the needle end in, then put your finger over the other end (tight) and when you withdraw...voila....glue in the tube! then when you move your finger it flows out!

Greg two words ...Donn Yost. http://www.oldmansmodels.com/ Go here and spend 19.95 on his painting DVD. He uses the same brush as you have, uses the little jars of testors..makes it simple!!! Bob Downie has published 2 editions of his airbrush book...read them!!! I doubt you will find any better painters than these guys. Donn is the enamel guru and Bob does it with lacquers. PS nice firefighter!