bobss396

I did a little more digging into causes of layer shift. Some are mechanical related to motion hiccups like an unstable work platform, bed and belt problems. I think a novice printed would likely miss these. Plus others I mentioned. I was reading up on things like slic3r and netfabb that will fix support problems, etc. It seems that these are advanced auxiliary programs that new users may not yet know about.

This makes total sense. I'm not going to call out any makers of things I have had issues with in the past. I'm on good enough terms with 1 and I can talk to him. Quite possible he does not know about how to fix it. Just about any kit he does has a layer shift issue. One body in particular might be available from someone else. This person leaves the scaffolding in place and the buyer removes it. I'd say it is very well supported. The one guy who strips all that out, I can't say what he does or doesn't do. Are the files plug-and-play? I know who the originator of the file is and he knows his stuff. I know there are programs available to post-process files before printing.

All of the above. There is a simple formula that determines the offset print angle. Which is not always perfect since car bodies have all sorts of angles to them. The phenomena with the bodies with lines in them is called "print shift". I have seen the same STL file used by different vendors, some have the print shift, some don't. I'm not sure what causes it yet EDIT: I did a search on "print shift" and the correct term is layer shift. This is where experience and troubleshooting skills come into play. I saw one very good video that explained the physical obstructions that occur during a print. This has nothing to do with the file. Things to look for are hitches in the axis motions. A harness or tube that may catch on something during the print. Even a small tangle of the filament as it comes off the spool will do it.

I have a good stash of NASCAR cages and other roll cage parts that I have accumulated over time. It really saves time and effort.

MAS made great stuff, so did S&S. I still have a stash from both vendors.

Anyone catch the Chevy truck master cylinder? It handled the brakes and the hydraulic clutch. Another rabbit hole... some of the Chevy truck bell housings had the clutch fork on the passenger side.

I could make it modular. Have a driveway-parking area add on section. Make it all fit into a single box when not in use.

I have a difficult prescription to fill. They are high index lenses and nor cheap. The focal measurements have to be EXACT I had a pair made by Davis Optical, they were awful. They made me another pair... even worse. I got a refund through my vision plan. I found a local independent shop that was excellent. I got a few pairs there, the owner was meticulous about everything. The shop has changed hands, so I am leery.

I get those group texts often. I report them as spam, block the number and delete them.

I would need to make something that could be put into a 11" x 17" banker's box for storage. I like the idea of 2 open sides.

I buy it mainly on eBay, 3 cans at a time with free shipping. Even the gray is hard to find locally. One local shop carries the large Vallejo black primer cans, almost $15 but it works well for me.

Johan had a display at the NNL East. I passed it more than a few times during my feeding frenzy. Not one person was at their table any time I looked over that way.

Every time I see one of these kits, I get a flashback going back to 1961. I should build another one. Instead of a Saginaw, why not use a '39-ish Ford 3 speed or a Lasalle? Those were often adapted to the new overhead valve engines of the era.

Look at what's in a bottle of nail 💅 polish. Probably any I have used have nitrocellulose lacquer listed in that tiny label. So treat it like nail polish. Use a good primer, thin it out so it sprays well. Multiple costs to build the color, etc. I have laid down silver lacquer as a base coat.

I have used some really tiny brass brads to simulate rivets before. Only a few in a row.. and if the spacing/edge distance is off, it shows badly.

For us as kids, it passed the time and cost us nothing. We used whatever was laying around.

The chrome spray would do it. I did a non-AG coupe and used aluminum sheet. It was not shiny like the real car was.

I managed to get the garden planted despite the cops and wet weather. I haven't planted corn (knee high by July!) in years. Celery is a first. The patio pots are doing very well.

Mobile kittens... one is bad enough. But a lot of fun to watch.

When my kids were cub scouts, we went to the national cemetery and put flags out like that.

Tamiya TS-68 or TS-82 is pretty good. I also use Mr. Surfacer black primer. If I do letter decals, I do the flat-ish black, then do the sidewalls in gloss black. Apply the decals and go with a matte clear over those.

I need to do something similar. Something I can store away when not in use. My mom worked in a department store and would bring home big coat boxes that were white. The lid and bottom were usable. We made window frames from construction paper, engine cranes from plastic sprue. It was a lot of fun.

Thanks, I hope so. Taking my time, as usual. I had to do a couple of minor things over. Next up is final primer on the body and maybe getting wheels on it.

The series has a '37 Chevy and a '40 Ford as well. I think the Wild One body will look better. Anything you want to know, just ask. I was going to cut up the coil-overs to use real springs... but nah...

What is the shiny firewall made of?