bobss396

Attention to detail shows on the contest tables. I see bad fits on otherwise well-built-ish models. I have learned the hard way to test fit it all... before paint. I'll have a model apart and together many times. I started to "pin" or otherwise positively locate the interior tub to the body, so it goes back together the same tome every time. I made a "nest" for the glass. I bond blocks inside the body where they will not be seen. Then I pin the body to the chassis. I have a Monte Carlo stock car (body not native to the chassis) and I epoxied in some machined aluminum brackets that were tapped for 0-80 allen head screws.

I try to avoid building on trays, too easy to flip over. I store supplies on old beer trays, I should put a "lazy Susan" base on one to see if I like it. I keep an assortment of files, sanding sticks and a few xacto knives out at any time. These get dirty fast, I have to wash the sanding sticks often to keep the dust down on my building area. Here's one thing I see at shows and contests. Models that look like they have been through a dust-storm. I have asked the builders if that was an older model... no sir, just completed. Dust embedded on EVERYTHING. Like they build next to a dryer vent.

Short answer, sand out the worst of it and then go with a polishing kit. I just did one (minor scratches) on a windshield. Much better, finished it off with a piece of flannel and tooth paste.

Me and my brother would build together on Monday evenings, he came over to my house. This is when I had a nice set up in the finished basement. I had a spot for him at my table with a light. I was thinking of inviting some club members to my house, but I would have to really clean the dining room up. My girlfriend had a comment last night... it is out of hand when we had to eat dinner in the living room off snack tables.

Some years back there was a guy making masks for NASCAR applications, a vinyl mask. The reviews were good. It could be a nice niche market for other applications.

I'll put Pearson ahead of Petty as the greatest driver since he often ran a partial schedule and racked up significant wins. He wasn't called The Silver Fox for nothing. A very calculating driver IMO.

Tamiya X22 clear is good for general headlight installation and dries... clear. I have to try the clear nail polish. I know some of them dry quickly.

Good idea, hold it in a pin vise and remove anything that doesn't look like a shifter. I make them all the time for stock cars, using a shirt pin as the shift knob and of course the pin only shortened and sleeved with shrink tube.

The show is ON for the first time since 2019. I hope everyone can make it, the venue is the same as previous shows. Good parking, easy access to parkways, etc. The venue is very well lit and spacious. We have lots of vendors that will be attending. The only thing is I doubt that the cafeteria will be open. So brown-bag it and there are diners and fast-food places close by. https://www.liarsmodelcarbuilders.com/_files/ugd/fc9717_9b7bb038cd1e46158f1dc13e9b19f246.pdf

Nicely done!

Sometimes I place a small piece of masking tape loosely on the oil pan or transmission. Just to keep them clean and not nicked up during fitting, etc. If I'm going to hand-paint the transmission, I save that for very late in the build.

I had a Bullitt '68 in black with the 390, 4-speed and Detroit Locker rear. I sold it in '84 to finance my stock car habit.

Goo Gone works with removing BMF adhesive. I would give it a wash after for sure, good old dish soap and warm water.

I have had problems with this too. There are too many variables to consider clearing decals.

I have a few razor saws that I use all the time. They hang in unless you are cutting hard materials. I agree on the MCG PE saw blades, very flexible and hard-ish to break. I have an upcoming project where I'll be grafting some 3D printed items into an existing chassis or possibly making a whole new chassis. I have rough-cut chassis stubs off before and used my Bridgeport mill to cut the rest off squarely and accurately. I hold the chassis/floor pan in the vise. It is always fun putting things back together keeping them square and parallel, etc. I use graph paper and a steel scale for most of that. I had taped a piece to some 1/8" steel stock and used magnets (cabinet catch parts) to block it up so I could tack-glue it together.

VCG Resins has one you may like. https://www.vcgresins.com/shop/p/off-road-winch

Very nice... any Flintstone resin product is a challenge.

CA glue will fog clear and chrome, so that is out. Now all I use is 2-part 5-minute epoxy, wait until it thickens up so it won't run where you don't want it. Lately I have made up mounting tabs so the glass will "nest" in place and won't move around. I will use little strips of tape to hold the glass. Apply a few dabs of epoxy and remove the tape later on.

When in doubt, run a test of some unused decals if possible. Slixx used to be impervious to clears like Tamiya TS-13. Lacquer clears, you may be asking for trouble. I used Krylon acrylic over some kit decals... one almost immediately cracked into a million pieces. I figured I would wait and sand it off once dry. I looked at it a few hours later and the decal somehow fixed itself, no sign it was damaged. It laid back down. Clear, I would go with light-ish coats. I did that '37 Chevy modified, no clear over the decals and the car is pearl white. That was 12 years ago and the number decals have yellowed around the edges.

I bought a set...

Coo Coo Marlin was the guy who ran the pre-Daytons 500 twin 100 mile races without a fuel stop and WON one of them. NASCAR and other big named teams had a collective canary over an independent driver pulling that off. This is why they went to 125 miles the next year.

This is what I have for my build, lots more than what comes in with the kit sheet. I have not been to Randy's site in a while. With hope the decals are still around. I would try to see if Mike's Decals possibly has them. https://www.mikesdecals.com/products_new.php

Those are thick. I have been using sanding sticks from a beauty supply store. The brand is Tropical Shine and they last a long time, providing they get washed when they get loaded up. Great for wet sanding too.

One of those iconic kits. I always liked the steerable wheels and opening doors.

Not sure if I have that same kit, I have several Monte kits and a set of Yesterday's decals for it. On my bucket list to build.