Jantrix

Also, remember that most any solution that will break loose glue or strip paint will also strip the platng off chrome parts. So save what you can before it goes into the paint stripper.

I'd love to see a tutorial on how you accomplished the hood mods. Awesome work. I'll be following along.

I'd say a lot of new builders should take a look at how clean that build is and take some notes. Well done sir!

VERY NICE! Yeah, i'd say you did it justice.

Most impressive.

Good addition Harry.

I approove.

Very nice work. I wouldn't change a thing.

I've given that a lot of thought, I've even gotten the original showroom ad and found the proper color used in the ad. However the kit is terrible detail-wise and the ability to kit-bash doing a hot rod or custom makes that less of an issue. Steve, I do love the red/black version. Maybe add modern wheels like Christian suggested?

I built this one as a kid and it was one of my favorite models that adorned my dresser top back in the 80's. Heaven knows what happened to it. I acquired an unbuilt kit in great shape a few years ago but it's just been sitting on the shelf. I've no idea how I want to build it. My only thought is to build it exactly as I had back then, as a lowrider (only better). If anyone has any other ideas, I'm all ears. There really isn't a whole lot of pics on the internet of this car either.

All good advice. A little silver paint on a toothpick will do ya.

Here's a very old build-up of that kit. Easily 25 years old now. This version came with some very nice wire wheels.

Very unique I like it.

No idea. What scale is it? Whatever it is, I'm sure you can paint it up cool.

Man that looks super. Where did the decals come from?

It happens to us all. I'm on a hiatus now myself.

Instead of using glue, try some liquid mask. Or try the 'ol salt technique. It's a very easy way to accomplish this. Sponge on your acrylics. A base of red oxide primer is usaullay best, because if you make a mistake that goes down to the primer, it's easy to fix up. Then spray down the body with a mist of water. Sprinkle the area that you want the rust to show though, with koscher (larger crystals) salt. Salt will stick to the water and stay on the paint when the water dries. After the part is dry, spray over it all with whatever top coat you are using. After that dries, knock off all the salt. After that a tooth brush and some 70% isopropyl alcohol (not 70 proof) will help you feather out the paint breaks. I did all the work on the trailer like that.

Not me man. My desk aint all that neat while I'm building, but it's one model on the desk at a time for me. Things get lost too easy if you let them get spread all over kingdom come.

Well let me ask you..............how does it look? This rust through and the rust around it was done with some acrylic clear brushed on, a sprinkle of baking soda and when dry, a wash of rust colored acrylic. More washes were added after this photo, to eliminate the obvious dividing line between the rust and the rest of the fender. Also, don't forget to use more than one color for the rust.

Man, that's a $45 contest, and that's before I even get to the gas cost. I'll have to think on this.

I have built this one as well and have the coupe and roadster in my stash. By the way, if you wanted to go more traditional, I'm told the chassis and running gear from the Revellogram '40 pick-up can be modified to fit this body. They are both 1/24. It's what I'm planning on using for my roadster.

These lend themselves well to builds you wouldn't inflict on another kit. This was $5 at a discount store. I made the most of it.

Some very nice work.

Very cool. This kit was very popular when it came out.

Okay, I'll look into it.