Jantrix

LOL, you glued the rear wheel wells in place before you put the interior in! HAHA! Now I don't feel so bad. I did the same thing with my three window.

Your best bet for planning builds is to find some members here who have a lot of 1:1 car show pics in their Fotki/Photobuckets and hit those up for inspriration. That's what I do.

In no particular order- 1. Test fit everything 2. clean up parting lines, injector pin marks and flash on every piece. 3. gap filling super glues (CA) 4. spray paint as much as you can. brush paints are for minor detailing. WalMarts Krylon section is your best pal. 5. don't worry about adding extra detailing until you have the basics of clean building down 6. take your time. make sure glues are set and paint is dry. 7. regular old elmers white glue for transparent pieces 8. wash all parts in a bath of dish detergent to clean off any mold release agents 9. humidity has a huge effect of the finish of gloss paints - choose your dryest days to paint the bodies. 10. automotive lacquers from AutoZone are fantastic (Duplicolor/Plasticote). Just make sure you use the same brand primer and primer completely inside and out. 11. don't get upset if you make mistakes (my dad retired two years ago and has tried three times to restart his modeling hobby but his hands shake and he's such a perfectionist, *sigh*) 12. the kits you built back then are still available and most of those aren't any better now. Find out what the newest kits are and enjoy. 13. harbor frieght is a great place for hobby tools, files, clamps, magni-visors etc. 14. enjoy yourself. if you're not enjoying it that makes it work, and that's not what we do here.

I suppose I'd have to finish a model in order join this....................................oh wait you said Finnish. LOL.

There is another site that does license plates and bumper stickers. Anyone got that URL?

I was originally using a range hood motor but it just wasn't pulling enough air. A cloud of paint would build up in the booth and then roll back at me. I disassembled the booth to move and now when reassembled - it won't start again. So I figured I'd change to a squirrel cage variety that everyone raves about. I'd rather spend a little more $ now and have something that will last. Thanks for the advice.

A while back someone asked for some advice on building a paint booth. One of our members listed everything he used down to the last nail. He also listed a motor from Grainger and the part number. The fan for my boooth just died and find myself needing that info again. Does anyone have that thread bookmarked or have that info handy? Many thanks in advance.

When masking, tape the hood in place from the underside and then tape off hood, roof and trunk with the same pieces of tape, this keeps everything lined up from end to end. Get a machinists ruler so you can measure from the edge of the hood/roof/truck to make sure both sides are even.

I wonder how many Corinthians they had to skin for all that leather?

Love it or hate it, you gotta admit it is the embodiment of one of the best rules of hot rodding. Build what YOU want and screw everyone who doesn't like it.

My muscle car pals will probably want me branded with a hot tail pipe for saying this, but that Firebird actually works as a lowrider. Fantastic work Gary.

So far ----------very impressed. I'm looking forward to seeing this beast take shape.

Hmm........................due to the slightly oversize nature of this kit. I might be tempted to use the engines/wheels/tires from a couple of 1/20 MPC Corvettes. For the top I think I'd find the top from one of the Hubley dual cowls or phaetons (they were plastic) and cut that down to fit. I think this kit has such untapped potential for real origainality and creativeness. I can't wait.

Great paint, great gloss, great interior/engine - over all great work. But the wheels/tires don't really work for me. You have what looks like a real fine traditional hot rod but the modern billets look very out of place. I recommend a set of wide whites with chromies or babymoons. Even a set of five spoke cragars with wide whites would be good. The wheels/tires from revells 49 merc would be great. Please understand this isn't a bash of your work, just my opinion. I think the traditional look is the way to go here.

Sam welcome to the forum. I'm glad to hear your condition is improving. I know for a fact we have several members here that live with disabilities and quite a few with severe mental instabilities. I'm looking forward to seeing your work in the future.

I'm not saying that the offended party should not get satisfaction or doesn't have a right to be pissed about it. All I'm saying is that calling Kevin out publicly is NOT a way to do so. It accomplishes nothing and I believe has the opposite of the intended effect. This forum is not responsible for the loss, so welcoming Kevin back is immaterial.

Hey those look great. Much better than my first models. A couple tips- Check out Radio Shack .30 gauge wrapping wire. $3.00 for 50 feet and comes in a variety of colors. This will give you years worth of spark plug wires that are very close to proper scale size. Tires rubbing on fender wells kills any sort of realism. Raising the suspension up with cut/shaped pieces of sprue (parts tree) will help you get the ride height lift in the rear you need for the tires to clear. Clear coat- Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear from WalMart is your best bet. It will go over any kind of paint and has a good gloss. Keep on building! Great work.

Hey those look great. Much better than my first models. A couple tips- Check out Radio Shack .30 gauge wrapping wire. $3.00 for 50 feet and comes in a variety of colors. This will give you years worth of spark plug wires that are very close to proper scale size. Tires rubbing on fender wells kills any sort of realism. Raising the suspension up with cut/shaped pieces of sprue (parts tree) will help you get the ride height lift in the rear you need for the tires to clear. Clear coat- Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear from WalMart is your best bet. It will go over any kind of paint and has a good gloss. Keep on building! Great work.

Besides, during my 41 year study of human nature, I have noticed that when you call someone out, publicly embarrass someone, you immediately put them on the defensive. And if that person is headstrong (as we all know Kevin is) you are even less likely to get satisfaction, because now he's pissed. So if you can't get it straightened out privately, put his name on any bad trader list you see and chalk it up to experience.

I'm originally from the area, growing up in New Port Richey. Whatcha need? Shoot me a PM.

Oh I'm likin' that. Very nice work.

We like ya just fine. Trust me, with these guys, if they didn't like ya, you can be sure you'de know it by now in no uncertain terms.

A rear "superfly" pimp mobile wouldn't have an engine. It would run on sheer coolness.

I've seen some slot car bodies lately with a LOT of time and work in them. I was just wondering how often do these cars wipe out where they might be damaged. I realize it's straight line, but I was just wondering.

IMCDB has a slightly different list for the Nic Cage Gi60secs. http://www.imcdb.org/movie.php?id=187078 Check it out. Sadly I don't think I have any of these rides in my stash at htis time, so I'll be watching this one.