Pico

The metal is Britannia metal, which I used due to its low melting temperature, silvery look and ability to be highly polished. Mold was made of Smooth-on Mold Max 60. The white metal used by Wills Finecast is much softer, also floppy in comparison, lower melting point, much grayer color and cannot be polished nearly as well.

Dry fitting the engine so that I know how much room there is for the hood hinge. Check out the holes in the distributor cap - they are .0291" (.7391mm) in diameter. The resolution of this material is superb.

Lookin' good.

One of my worries was how prominent the 3d printed material layering would be on a chrome surface. With this material, only several light coats of primer and fine sanding will produce a surface that smooth enough for Alclad chrome.

Eric, Yours was not the one I was referring to. I have considered making one myself but there are only 24 hours in a day.

Yo! Impalow! Got your Woodlites from Shapeways. Very nice, now what should I put them on? It's been rumored that someone is finally completing the Cord L29 that has been floating around the community for the last 15 years or more.

1/24th scale. I'm more interested in the wheel covers than wire wheels. I've spent days hand stringing 1/24 wire wheels and avoid it if necessary. And those covers are very tasteful. Also - this printed material is smooth enough that it should be easy to finish to take a chrome paint, but I haven't tried that yet. That's one of today's projects. That pic was taken at Amelia Island, I missed that year, but took some pics of one at St. John's Concours several years ago. I've done a spoon test of Model Master turquoise metallic, and it's ringing my bell.

The design is based on the maroon car - no bumpers or hood scoop. I will be painting it turquoise, with a turquoise and white interior. Very 50's show car.

The type of printing is the resin hardened with a laser, it resembles acrylic. It may be acrylic? Talking with the 3d printer dude yesterday, he said I could avoid the supports connecting to the important parts of the engine by dividing it in half so the supports all come off the inner half, not the exhaust headers, manifold, etc. Might be a trick removing the supports and not taking something important with it.

Three coats of primer and light sanding and it's in good shape, not ready for paint, but close. The engine compartment snaps into place - that's all one piece. Other parts have required some filing around the edges.

Ace - Here's something for you to think about: if I can output this in 1:24, I can do it in 1:1.

I have done the engine and interior. Chassis is a flat plate with the firewall. The printer and I have discussed producing a kit, which I'm inclined to be in favor of. However, I can see that there will need to be some refining of a few things before that happens. Video: .

Yo! ACME Dudes! Good to see you, as always. The local 3d printer has several new resin printers and they seemingly melt the layers together to produce and much smoother surface.

A coat of gray primer and a light sanding with 600 grit paper and the minimal layering is obvious. Easy finish work!

After a long design process, I have received from my 3d printer this body propped up by a framework of supports. Now the fun part begins.

The English term is "engine turned". That's why I cast the body in white metal - so it could be engine turned.

I don't have any experience with Hum3D, but I doubt if you can plug them directly into a 3d printer without a lot of modification. A good place to start with learning how to 3d print bodies would be the 3D Warehouse. Their digital models are free, but vary in quality from toy-like to very good. A digital body is a membrane and must be given thickness to be able to print. You do this by building a series of planes on the inside of the body. Download Sketchup and learn it. There are numerous videos and websites about it.

Superb work.

Darnit, Bill, where you been hiding this stuff?

Superb!

V16 mill?

Hey Bill, We have a show tomorrow. You be there?

Balsa wood ignition temperature: 400 F.

Ha!

Glad to see you're not working by candlelight.