Pico

The spokes will not obscure enough on the hub to be a problem with painting.

What printer are you using?

Starting at 1, pull monofilament fishing line to 2, which is the first hole to the left of 3, which is directly across from 1. then to 3 and thread it on the opposite side of the hub to 4. Then start the sequence again at the first hole to the right of 4. Notice this method is only usable with rims that have holes in multiples of 4. Spoke diameters vary widely, but a spoke of 1/4" diameter would be .010" in 1/24th scale.

Third way, be back later..

When you're done with that, try this...

It was on the project table at out show, I'm having trouble making the yellow decals for the fenders; as well as working on another project and moving my model building shop from my unheated basement to guest bedroom. I have tons of time in it and will finish it.

I'm beginning to think I'll get this done for our show this Saturday - everyone here is attending,right? Check the events column on the right for the Southern NNL.

I have a bit of fine sanding ahead. Striking color combination.

Duplicolor black.

Time to shoot the fenders black. This much masking makes me nervous.

Nice work.

You left out the gaskets.

After several years work, off and on, but fairly concentrated since April, I beginning to feel I might be closing in on finishing this. Getting the color on is always a satisfying step. Gravity Color's Grabber Orange for the body, black for the fenders. Maybe a bit flashy but so is the car.

The template was taken from the two tone blue car.

Each of these cars are a bit different. The car I am modelling is a long wheel base car, because it "flows" better. The shorter wheelbase are tighter and fender shapes are different.

Bilingham has suggested using Cratex abrasives for the engine turning; which looks like a good idea: https://www.cratex.com/ .

After a several week break and massive workbench top cleaning, I'm at it again. Here carving the transmission hump from epoxy putty.

Ha! I am waiting to see how you engine turned the body.

Brass bumpers for strength.

I might be able to finish this thing some day...

Work continues. I have put a wad of Ave's Apoxy on the model, let it set and am carving it to be a top cover. 3d printed seat and interior door panels are in place.

You could but it's not necessary. Resin flows easily so you don't have to force it into the mold. The problem with molten metal in a non-spin cast mold is it cools quickly and may not fill the mold. In a spin caster the centrifugal force throws it into all parts of the mold.

I have added a tutorial " Building and using a centrifugal caster" in the general section.

If you are casting smaller objects and don't want to use a large amount of Mold Max 60; make a plug of plaster of paris to fill the mold, then the two part rubber mold. Be certain the plaster of paris has set for several days and is dry before pouring in molten metal. The windshield is a success, I'll also use metal door handles on the outside of this model.