Pico

Second flying buttress in and more cleanup.

Making dust.

One flying buttress roughed in and rear window drilled out.

More sanding and drilled out for brass reinforcing rod for flying buttress.

Made a mold, of Apoxpy Sculpt, to form the flying buttresses over. Flying buttress is an architectural term but used in other contexts; so I'll use it here.

More sanding, beginning to find it's shape.

It's time to go to work.

Renshape time.

You will love it.

Putty time. I use Aves Apoxy Sculpt: https://avesstudio.com/shop/apoxie-sculpt/ It has a long working time and is easy to sand and takes paint very well. Slow setting time, about 6 hours.

When I build, I build to last forever.

The Thrill has a prominent beltline running rather low, and forming the tops of the wheel openings, which I'm replicating with a strip of .040" glued and pegged into the body.

Part will be easy, part will be challenging. I have a 1/24th scale slot car body of a Pegaso Z 102 from CricCrac, a slot car shop in Barcelona, Spain. The front of the Thrill is close to the Z 102, the rear will require major surgery. Here is the kit, and the slot car.

The symbol for Pegaso is a pegaso - a flying horse. Here's the logo - very stylish.

My next project - should I wish to accept it - build the wonderfully quirky Pegaso Thrill.

Been using Sketchup for 8 years now. It's an advanced hobbyist software. There are other programs, Fusion360 is very good but requires more dedication and time to learn.

Here's a really good scan. I should have done the Delage to this quality, rather than screwing around with it until it was correct. Here about all I've done is punch the louvers, added wheel wells, door and hood lines and the divider behind the passenger compartment. But first to make it absolutely symmetrical, cut it in half, erased half, copied and flipped the other half, and welded to together.

5 minute epoxy to glue it together. I am uncertain about the video projector method - never heard of it. Possible you mean using a laser beam? There is a method, that I tried 5 years ago, using a thin laser beam to define the contours of a model and photograph that many times, then software would make a mesh from the contour images. I could not make it work. I use Regard3D; http://www.regard3d.org/

I made two scans of this. The first comprises the larger polygons, making a rather low resolution mesh, not the best but I knew I was going to do plenty of body work. However the rear of the car was very poorly defined, so I made a second scan; those are the smaller polygons. I "welded" the two scans together. The orderly arranged polys are my work, because the 1/43rd scanned model was off and I needed a transition between the scans. I used the coachbuilders drawing, paced in the background, and a side view to determine the shape.

About 5 years ago I attempted photographing full size cars but was unsuccessful. Here are the limitations of scanning technology: the item being scanned cannot have any bright reflections; those screw up the mesh produced by the software. Therefore the item must have a matt finish and the light mush be "flat" - no single sources of light as the sun or spotlight. Auto manufacturers and professional scanners have that technology, but we hobbyists don't. I strip the paint from the model, and paint with primer, make marks on it so the software can coordinate between the photos. I take about 60 photos and upload to Regard3D, then get a mesh from that. Then in Sketchup, modify the mesh for printing.

An ad from the period.

No WIP thread, it was a long process with some setbacks .

Finally finished after a long and difficult build process. I started with a 1/43rd diecast of the car, scanned it, output it in 1/24th, then modified that to be 3d printed. My Anycubic Photon is limited in size so I printed it in four major pieces; the rear body, front fenders, hood and chassis plate. It replicates a real car, I hope. Or is close. This one: https://www.coopertechnica.com/1937-Delage-D8-120-Aerosport-Coupe.php.

Looking good! I hope it will be finished for the 2023 Southern NNL.

Alfa chassis in brass - much stronger but get something less flammable than balsa wood to help solder it together. Very nice work on that distributor.