Rat Roaster

He was taking Stupid Money to the extreme but i doubt that his infrequent sales paid him much more than $1/hour for his time investment.

This kit is a challenge for the ADD cursed. It is the ex-Hubley 1930 Duesenberg as produced by Ertl. When i went hunting for one i looked for the Ertl example in order to have fresher 'chrome'. At this point, there's at least 15 hours into deburring the diecast parts, mostly with a hand grinder and various rotary files and such. Then another few hours tweaking the body halves to where they mirror each other while fitting flat into the floor/fenders unit. Eventually it was time to glue the body halves together with JB Weld and some perforated stainless steel that was liberated from an ancient computer tower. There are 2 layers of stainless in 4 places. The body halves were JB'ed while they were pulled down into the floor/fender unit with some strapping tape. After the JB hardened up the joints were grooved with a 1" cutoff wheel in the hand grinder and the area next to the grooves roughed up with a rotary file to ready it for some more JB as a body filler. The JB Weld is quite a bit harder and stronger than the 2-part epoxies i have used in the past. The reputation seems deserved. Carry on!

When you can motor around in a topless automobile with a golf bag door (left side) you know you have arrived. V-16 Cadillacs are very special cars.

THAT is an excellent choice! V-16 Cadillacs - beautiful automobiles and master pieces of engineering. That Sport Phaeton - a well-to-do family man's summer Sunday Driver. Gimme the keys for one whole day. Heaven on earth!

Those are original Mercury Cammer valve covers with a FoMoCo part number cast into them. The kit valve covers without the Ford logo are correct.

That's an easy one. I fix 'em with boiling hot water, a Pyrex measuring cup, and neoprene gloves. Of course, the other end of the body went into the paint stripper once the patient survived the operation.

Saw a bunch of them at Ollies for 19.99$. Judging by the pics on the box of the builtup it wasn't even worth that. Sad, actually.

Sheesh. Wish i could work that fast. I have the 1930 Duesenberg Phaeton metal kit on the side burner. It took maybe 3 whole afternoons to buzz the flash off the metal parts. Used the Dremel with a small cutoff wheel, same as you, and also a few different carbide rotary files. Then had to set it aside and recharge the batteries after all that tedium. Picked up some JB Weld the other day to blend the joints & ejector pin marks. Am about ready to resume the ordeal. Your '32 Chevy came out pretty nice! Thanks for letting us see what goes into it! BTW i saw your pic of the Packard. Not your first time at this rodeo

The Mercury Junky gonna be doing the happy dance for this one..........https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNRcUOE2NaA

Why, you are the Bondo Kid!

I'd glue the stub back on first, correctly oriented, let the glue set then (pin vise) drill down the center and glue in a good stiff piece of sewing straight pin. Won't matter if the drill wanders a bit

Or maybe the kid made that part up rather than admit he boogered up the simple task you gave him to be there for delivery.

A well-tuned and properly geared 1970 Gran Sport Stage 1 with a 400 Turbo should give the 1970 LS6 a scare at the drags. 510 foot-pounds of frame twisting torque.

There is a kit that is not for anyone afflicted with adult ADD Looking forward to seeing more 'cause this ADD boy is considering the 1932 Chevrolet Phaeton.

Okay, the opera windows look dangerously small and a little out of position. That said, they would both make fine models if printed on 100# card stock with fold lines and tabs added.

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Bravo! Just look at the ex-modelers here who can't even follow this thread

Well then, you looked at the instructions so you would know. You may want to consider buzzing that thinned area out before final paint in order to avoid chipping the paint while buzzing it out. Carry on!

Sears/Kmart is failing. All their employees will soon be out of a job. Shouldn't you be doing something to prevent this?

Um.........................................................................................................................................................who cares?

They could've designed the body to take the MPC Pepsi Laguna glass and everything else in that kit. Then had Round 2 run them 3000 shots of the Laguna kit minus the body and produced their body themselves and been further ahead in more ways than one. Hell, they coulda 3D scanned the trees from the Laguna kit, copied them into a mold, and been further ahead. LOL

Some people seem to take the stance that people with hobby budgets should 'support' a new player in the model car field by throwing away their money on a kit they will never build and keep throwing away their money until the quality improves to the point where a kit becomes acceptable and reasonably buildable. If that is the business plan for this company then maybe they should've started out by soliciting charitable contributions via GoFundMe or other crowd sourcing means. That way, people who wanted to donate to this company could do so without any expectation of getting something of value in return. BTW, I already have my preferred charities to support as well as a few of those charming '70s MPC Stock Cars so include me out.

I like that. Wonder if i can talk Dick out of the keys for about 30 minutes? Just enough time to burn up a tank of good gas.

Well, i was messing around with a few examples of this kit (1968 L/88) today and then just found this thread. While looking at mine it became apparent that the body was designed for optional 1969 side exhausts because the tail panel has no cutouts for the 1968 exhaust tips. I didn't look at the instructions but i did see treed chromed tailpipe extensions and also chromed semi-circular bezels that go into the tail panel for the exhaust tips. So i looked at the box art model and sure enough, there were no cutouts in that tail panel and no tailpipe extensions. The exhaust system on the box art model dead-ended without poking through the tail panel like it should have. My Revell 1968 Corvettes all DID have the correct 1968 backup lights below the bumper, though. Backup lights that were moved to the red lenses for 1969.

Thank You for the clarification, Doc. Much appreciated.