Claude Thibodeau

Hi! Thanks for the comments. No, never tried it before. I built new and shiny real hot rods for a living... so rust and decay are a turn-off for me in real life. However, having read about weathering and patina in model publications, I just wanted to give it a try. I was not shooting for "absolute decay", as some do. Just a slightly used and worn look dit it. As for the paint, color and partial rust, there was a VW platform van in Contest Cars a few years ago, that had just what I considered "perfect". That was actually what got me started on this one. That the car would be roadworthy in real life was a major consideration for me. This one is "borderline", I will concede... Warning: it IS more work to do a rat than an average model... CT

Hi! The historic look is spot-on. ready for the pages of The Rodder's Journal. Wait 'till Steeve Coonan sees it... Bravo! CT

Hi! A friend of mine who's into the packaging industry told me the beer/soft drink cans are of the same thickness as throw-away aluminium plates you get with pies, or buns. If you find a plate that is squarish or rectangular, you will find the "floor" of the plate is made of flat and embossed (or "quilted") alternating surfaces. The flat spots should provide you with more than enough material for most 1/24 scale parts you may want to fabricate. Plus, you can trim it with typical paper scissors. Just a suggestion... CT

Hi! Good concept, the roof (in particular) is in tune with the general design of the 'bird. Some who attempted that conversion used 61 Galaxie roof, which, from the get go, is similar to what you achieved trough your hard work. I'll follow that! CT

Hi! For what it is worth... here is a "basic" scratchbuilt injection system on a Boss 429 engine, with the horns made of shoelace eyelets. CT

Hi! Having worked in a print shop in my early years, I confirm that litho plates are a smidge thicker than those alternatives I mentionned. I remember seeing people making hood hinges made of beer can aluminium, of all things. This Bud's for you! CT

Hi! Glad you ultimately got your pics uploaded. Great work! I saw very thin aluminium plates, virtually "paper" at Michael's, in the Cricut cutter aisle... They call it "embossing material". As the name implies, they might be pliable and stiff at once to fit your purpose. Some folks also use the foil that seals the cork on wine bottles, or even some tooth paste tube foil (the inside is natural alumnimium finish. Might do? CT

Hi! Great built, tremendous paint finish. This is what we would call "dripping wet" gloss. Bravo! CT

Hi Sir! Got them, loaded them, drooled over them, and responded directly about them to the email address from which you sent them to me. You should have it by now... CT

Hi Sir! Well, sorry to hear that. I fear we won't see the pictures... Depending on the maker of your computer, it may very well be that instead of a Microsoft software, your computer is running on an "open" software, i.e. free software, but with different configurations. Those are surprinsingly common among people who don't require so called "state of the art" software for their usual needs. I went with Microsoft because my former line of work required it, mostly. And a final note: it's Claude, not Charles. No offense taken, rest assured. Respectfully, CT

Hi Sir! Thanks for the comments. I build real 1/1 street rods for a living... therefore, I may have more sensibilities as to what might work or not in real life... But I admit some of my builts are a stretch (!), That's the fun of modeling: less boundaries, eh? I see you live in Perth. Funny... a few years ago I sold a custom Engine cover to a rodder from Perth. The shipping cost more than the part... but he wanted it badly, so... I can't remember his name, alas. Getting older by the day... CT

See message above... CT

Hi Sir! Your computer with which you interact with this very forum is likely powered by Microsoft MSDOS. In which case, you probably have WORD text processing in your tool bar. If so, import your pics as you normally do, and then access them tru the icons that appears at the top of the page when you open them individually. It will likely offer you the option to "modify" them with the photo program included in you Microsoft software. You can then crop them, calibrate, colorize, contrast or "resize" each of those to your liking. After the procedure, you will have the option to "save a copy" of your modified pic. Do it. It will therefore show you the original, and the modified, usually side by side. The modified will generally have the same pic ID number, followed by a (2). That one will be smaller and "lighter", and therefore, easy to load on the forum. Believe me, Mr. Woodruff, I am NO TECHIE... If I was able to learn it, you will most likely do faster than yours truly. Can't wait to see the pics. Good luck! respectfully, CT.

Hi! Couldn't you fabricate longer tube intakes oriented sideways? Just picture typical dragster "zoomies" upswept headers... but turned upside down to arc over the valve covers and point downward. At which point you could fabricate a lenghtwise "tube" to distribute air to all of them. That would locate your turbo-charger unit about the same level as the exhaust ports, therefore increasing the "efficiency" of your turbo set-up... It looks like the avail space between the valve covers and the side wall of your body shell could accomodate that. Just an idea... Of course, you might have to modify the angle of the actual header flanges on the zoomies, but nothing out of your range, based on what I saw of your previous builts... If "standard" zoomies don't do because of canopy interference... the convoluted headers that came in AMT's 53 Studebaker coupe might fit... For what it's worth, respectfully. CT

Hi! Thanks for the comments. I have a friend who has a real Rat Rod... Everybody is blown by the look of it... bu HE is terrified to drive it. It is therefore a "trailer queen". Go figure. At least, my rat has front disc brakes, and very strong "seat belts"... CT

Hi! Thanks for the info. Your expertise is much more acute than mine. I will correct my descriptive form for the next show, in october. I would like to attend Classic Plastic in Lowell october 6. Schedule permitting... Otherwise, the Quebec City model show will be its first outing. CT

Hi! Thanks for the comments. It is true that the exhaust fumes could swirl back into the cabin. However, the hole you refer to is in fact in the stepped-up "floor" that fills the rear of the cabin. And just for good measure, I dispensed with all windows, except the opening windshield... Safety first! (just kidding!) This could be an issue only at stoplights, I suppose. Alas, I did not test the car in a wind tunnel to see the buffeting effect regarding exhaust fumes. I told you: building rat rod is hard... A few years ago, at the North-East NSRA nat in Burlington Vt, a young army recruit at my hotel was hosing his rat rod with water at 6:00 am... to adjust the "patina", he admitted... He had no floor at all, barring a unique 2X2 xmember that supported the seats and belts. The "floor" was made of wire fencing, just like the one used in the roof of my model. Said he got a lot of slack from Patrolmen about it... but they ultimately always let him go with a "thanks for your service" comment. Exhaust fumes was the least of his worries, I guess... CT

Hi! I never ever dared to buit a "rat rod"... but I finally gave it a try. Used a pile of mis-matched parts from the junk bins at the last 2 shows I attended... It is what appears to be a Revell 32 sedan body, with a junked 32 Ford frame of unknown origin, plus L8 engine, tranny & luggage rack from 32 Chrysler imperial (AMT), and wire wheels & IRS from a 39 Mercedes found in the same junk bin. Rear floor pan, dash, seats, windshield, radius rods, sun visor (made from the rear spoiler of a Revell '71 GTX !). steering linkage, column, door panels, pedals, chain & padlock "seat belts" were scratchbuilt. Fully wired & hosed. The roof is a laminate of styrene sheets, opened, with wooden effect & chicken coop fencing for good measure. Paint is Tamya's acrylic with the hair spray technique. The licence plate is litterally suspended with wires... Hours of fun with styrene! CT

Hi! Thanks for the comments. Some fellow modelers on an european forum observed that the "contemporary" mirrors (from a current Dodge Challenger) are a less than ideal fit with this car. They may have a point. I should had favored small "vintage" mirrors, I guess. CT

Hi! Thanks for the comments. For reasons I don't grasp... there seems to be a resurgence of this timeless design these days. I will not complain, quite the contrary... Keep them coming! CT

Hi! Interesting project, rare subject! My brother had a similar 71 Comet, that he drag raced with. These cars were "minimalist", to say it bluntly. But when converted to Pro-Stock, they flew off the tree like crazy. Souvenirs... To your point about the Johan chassis... I concur. Their kits were mostly upgraded promos with extra parts for the kit market. Their bodies were GREAT, even in minute details. But the chassis plate... You are right to discard and start with something else. Can't wait to see where it takes you! CT

Hi! Thanks for the comments. Much appreciated. CT

Hi! Thanks for the comments. Much appreciated! CT

Hi! The whole package works beautifully, bravo! Those Polar light FC front wheels are great. I use them whenever I can. With little detailing, they look very real, as on your car!

Hi! Nice built. You are lucky: I would do unspeakable things to get one of those Invicta AMT kit... Hard to come by, alas! CT