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Claude Thibodeau

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Everything posted by Claude Thibodeau

  1. Hi! Found this Revell body in the bargain bin at a recent show, and threw many AMT Phantom Vicky parts at it, mostly modified. Monogram's 56 Ford panel IRS & driveshaft, AMT's 1928 Chrysler cabrio front seat + Maisto VW rolling stock. Scratchbuilt: rear frame section, bumper & tail lights, front frame extension, hood & rad support rods, gas tank, firewall, windshield, floorpan, tunnel, console, door & trunk panels, pedals, trunk hinges, master cylinder & hydraulic clutch reservoirs, disc brakes, calipers, hoses, air filters and injection system, etc. Tamya's Racing white + Mr Hobby's Top coat clear. Craftsmart Suede interior & roof + Tamya's semi-gloss clear. Molotow's & Revell spray chrome accents. Flocked carpets. Hours of fun with styrene! CT
  2. Hi Sir! Stunning, and a feast for the eyes. Bravo! CT
  3. Hi! I concur. Most chrome don't react well with clear. I have used Revell's spray chrome for a year now, and I must say it is very satisfactory, and if you leave it to dry (harden?) for about 10 days, it will resist to reasonnable handling needs. See wheels, grille and runningboards on the following pics. CT
  4. customs duties notwithstanding
  5. Hi Chuck! Thanks for the comments. It's hard to "improve" on the front end of the F100, you have to settle fo "different" LOL. CT
  6. Thanks Luke, I'll try it. I also have Farecla (UK) fine compound to polish custom paint jobs I do on 1/1 motorcycles. I think I'll make a test! CT
  7. Hi Greg! Thanks for your input. The Premium top coat is WATER based, and therefore, dries "softer" than lacquer clear (such as Tamya or Revell). Hence my search for those of us who actually polished it. Usually, my final clears are so smooth and shiny that they don't even require polishing (see VW salt car below). But on this specific build, it does! CT
  8. Hi! I was completing a candy paint job on a custom project, and somehow, some wrinkling happened while clearing. So, I let it dry, sanded the surface wet with 600 grit, and put two wet coat of testor's wet look clear, to "level it". It worked. I sanded that clear again with 800 wet, and used two wet coats of Mr.Hobby Premium clear to finish it. That clear is water based, so I was not concerned with compatibility, and I was right. No more wrinkles, job saved! However, I want to polish it before doing the final assembly, because all clears loose a bit of gloss when curing, So... Do you have any experience with final-polishing this Premium Top coat, and what would you advise? Thanks for chipping in! CT
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