dmthamade

Yup!! That's something I did know, with car colors it's more important than a low viz F-16. Also affects the amount of color coats needed for coverage, eg. white over dark grey primer vs white over white primer. I do remember candy colors are greatly affected by the base coat, light silver vs dark silver or gold. All this to say stay consistent with the primers!! Don

Building aircraft kits, navigation/position lights need to be added. If/when I do, I put a base color of silver down first, then after it dries I apply Tamiya clear red, yellow or orange. Seems if you have bare metal foil down already then add the clear paint, you can have the bezel and lens easily. Haven't tried this yet (no chrome bezels on warplanes) but maybe on a future build. Don

Well i'm happy with the primer, now I just have to pick the color coat. I'm doing the Model King Comet Cyclone, hoping to do a different color than what's on the box. I should start a build in progress post. Don

Great that you're continuing with the build in spite of all the setbacks. I built this kit in 2013 as a break from planes. The decals went bad for me as well, reacted with the clearcoat I applied. Stripped off, had to repaint, then redid some with Tamiya spray bomb gold and Indycals decals. At the time I was happy with how it turned out, now i'm thinking I could do better....The indycals decals worked great, though they aren't as crisp or in register as the Tamiya kit decals were. Don

Great ideas all!! I've been looking at some finished builds with the neatly done badges, etc and been wondering how the heck am I going to do that? Reminds me of picking out details in model aircraft cockpits, something i'm not good at. Lots to learn... Don

Except for the wheels, I deplated everything. All the plated parts had a lot of flashing and fit was poor, so it was a choice of shiny but poor fit, or no seams and no shine. I need to find an alternative to painting parts that should be chromed or highly polished. Lots to learn after 30+ years of flat aircraft finishes. Don

1960 Chevy Sedan Delivery. It's a two door, wagons are four doors. I think i remember building this kit, does it have a flip front? Don

Hello!! New guy checking how to post pics and adding a completed build. Recently finished this kit. Have to say, there are a LOT of inaccuracies and fit issues with this kit, but it is from real old molds. Not OOB, did change the stance a bit and didn't do any plumbing. This is the most recent release with updated wheels/tires and decals. Don

OK, so i bought a can of the Duplicolor sandable primer. Big can. As a first try, i have the floor pan/ chassis and the two inner panels to paint. Read instructions, prepped parts and...painted. Hit the parts with two light coats 20min apart, then one color coat. Stuff dries fast, no crazing, worked as you guys said?. I have to say, it has a WIDE spray pattern!! but it's for real cars!! Thanks for the great advice, guys!! Don

Man you guys are killing me. Everything looks great....I'm having cold breakfast cereal for dinner.... Don

Aftermarket maybe? Started in the trade mid 70's, remember tan distributor caps, black coils, can't remember yellow topped Mopar coils. Yellow topped Ford coils, yes, but IIRC no Mopar coils. I'll probably be proved wrong... Don

4wide!! Don

Heh, you haven't seen me paint...great paint on those bodies. Don

Light coats at first sounds good, think first time i'll do this, let dry overnight, then hit with color coats next day, applied like i was spraying Tamiya. Temp and humidity cautions will observe. Thanks again, guys!! Don

OK then, lots of excellent feedback and experiences. So, time to take what I've been given and experiment a little. I have a few paint hulks i'll sacrifice. I plan on spraying one with Tamiya primer, let it dry about an hour, then hit it with a color coat of Duplicolor. Second hulk i'll hit with Duplicolor primer, then hit with Duplicolor. No doubt it will be ok, but it will give me an idea how it lays down, how thick it looks, detail hiding, etc. The Tamiya primer I know I can hit with Tamiya color with as little as 30 minutes drying, will see how it works with Duplicolor. Did look at the web page, so have an idea which primer and color coat to get. Thanks for the help, guys!! Your BTDT experiences help a lot. Don

Nice build!! Brings back a lot of memories!! I remember it being called the Striped Tomato. Google it. Don

Never would have thought of that!! Makes sense!! Thanks Steve. Don

Thanks for the response, Leslie and Roger!! Looks like nothing jumps out as being a "No!! don't do that!!" from anyone. I'm looking at the duplicolor for a bit of variety. Tamiya spray bombs are great, but you kinda run out of choices. I'm starting in on the Moebius Comet, would like to go for a different color, nothing from Tamiya is what i want. Don

Thanks for the welcome, tyler and curtis!! Westshore area not too far away. I'm north of that, right near the volkswagen guy!! Don

Yup!! Not my car, customers car. I've done a few of the Painless full harnesses, pleasure to do especially on an empty car. This car has a newer partial fusebox/harness, with parts of the old harness for the rear and front. Installing a complete harness on this car would be relatively easy, not much in the way, small harnesses, not a lot of options. A harness in a newer car (2015 newer) now that's "fun". Don

Old cars can be such a pleasure/challenge/sense of torture/accomplishment to work on. I have to say, this chevy is a solid car inside/out, wiring is the worst of it. Don

Hello all!! New guy with some paint questions. I've been building aircraft for decades, been using Tamiya primer in spraybomb with great success under any paint. I've read the brand Duplicolor is good, think the color selection is great.Anybody have any experiences with Tamiya primer under Duplicolor, or is there another primer better/equivalent? I remember decades/half a century ago trying an automotive touch-up paint on a plastic body, it attacked and crazed the plastic. Don't really want a repeat of that. Also, do you spray out of the can (ok with me) or do you decant/airbrush the paint? I see Testors has a two step paint system, are results good? Thanks for any advice. Don

I remember those safe glues, none of them seemed to work as well as the old dangerous stuff. I remember Microscale Micro Weld cement, great stuff until they changed to safe cement...use MEK now, stuff works great... have to admit, I like the smell... Don

New guy chiming in. I've been building 1/32 aircraft for decades, never did strive for absolute accuracy, close being good enough. Now, i'm kinda burnt out/bored of aircraft, built the 1/16 Hawaiian recently. LOTS of inaccuracies with this kit, at first it went on the shelf of doom for close to a year, restarted it, turned off by basic kit, decided the heck with it, i'll just build it. I'm OK with results. I need to say, I've been a mechanic for 40+ years, one of the reasons I didn't do cars is the inaccuracies would drive me nuts, lack of detail and accuracy would prevent me from enjoying the kit. Recently decided that it doesn't matter now, will build and enjoy, not drive myself nuts over inaccuracies....I hope. Don

Sorting out the wiring in a 1959 chev impala wagon. 60 yr old car has had a LOT of hands on the wiring....some good, some bad...really bad. Don