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Stingray69

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Everything posted by Stingray69

  1. Uh.... I think my eyes have popped out of my head :shock: Speechless!
  2. About 400 pics from Muscle Car Madness in York, Pa. Big Daddy Don Garlits was there along with other legends. http://s72.photobucket.com/albums/i175/Sti...0/York%20US-30/
  3. W :shock: W! I love that color man! Great job!
  4. Yes indeed that is looking very good! Great clean work :mrgreen:
  5. That is great place to hang out! Thanks for posting the link
  6. I remember seeing a few of your builds elsewhere... jaw dropping work! Welcome to the board 8)
  7. Welcome Leon! I've used your paints once... probably some of the best
  8. Welcome to the board! A lot of great members here with a lot of knowledge.
  9. THE ENGINE HAS ARRIVED! Here she is... ALL METAL, the parts are great, fit is great, the whole friggin thing is great! It also came with pulleys, a belt, and a prewired magneto. I'm in love with it. I need to make a quick trans swap later... remember this is a t/f engine so the trans is a no can do. Now since this a blower it'll need a blower shroud which I ordered from TEM already... so say goodbye to that little wimpy cowl induction scoop.
  10. I'm really starting to consider this site my home now... Theres only one other board that I'm true too.
  11. Welcome to the board! Like said above no BS here, just modeling! Enjoy!
  12. Ok well heres a big update: I finally got tubs in and a floor... there are still panels to be made obviously to complete the tubs and metal work. Everything fits pretty good...no gaps. Next week I should pick up the pace some... there is still a crapload of work left, lol... but I love it! I know it seems far a way now but I would like this one done by Dec. 1st. I was doing a quick mock up today to check the stance and stuff and I finally decided the original wing was not doing it for me... you guys might of liked it but for me it really didn't show my best work. So I ripped it off in frustration and made myself something a little more innovative. This is what I came up with... I like it much better. The cool thing is is it really works too. I made it so the center could move.. There is still some clean up work left.. Heres a quick video of it in action! http://s72.photobucket.com/albums/i175/Sti...nt=MVI_1142.flv Back to metal work now, lol!
  13. WOW, that is some serious work! Excellent job so far man! Love the idea of a taildragger.
  14. If you touch the screen you can almost feel heat from those flames, lol! That true fire look definitely adds an attitude! Great job!
  15. Very nice custom Goat! Love everything you did there, simple as that! Thanks for sharing it with us!
  16. I can almost see myself in that paint, lol! Beautiful work!
  17. Killer paint work Tom! That Pontiac is a jaw dropping!
  18. If your not in the mood for a vette...see a doctor, lol! Very nice cutsom vette so far! I really like that color, what is it?
  19. Very interesting subject! As a scratchbuilder myself I know the amount of time you put into it, great skills man!
  20. Theres a difference between Pro Street and Pro Stock here.... The pro street kits are going to have a standard street engine, the Pro Stock will have the race motors with 5 speed trannys, tube frame, etc... The pro stock kits will have the wheels (weld pro stars) I'm guessing you want along with the tires... Check here for Pro Stock Kits: Pro Stock Kits Get them while you can... they sell very fast there...!!
  21. Thanks all! Bill I'm using standard Rosin Core solder I got at hobby shop... nothing special about it... I rarely if ever have a problem with a joint remelting. I only lay the iron down for maybe two or three seconds... most of the time the already soldered joints don't heat up that quick. If you use torch I can almost asure you you'll have joints remelt but with only 35watt iron its rare uless you have another joint super close to the being soldered. If you want the best though go with some silver solder seems to work the best in these cases because it takes more heat to melt... The reason I don't use it is I can't find it in my area and it tends to be expensive. Well here's somewhat of an update.. more like a step backwards. I had to make a mod on the frame for 100% accuracy.... After taking some measurements I noticed that my seat and seat area was way too narrow for any driver to fit. On most pro mods the top framerail will bend in to make for more room. So I said my prayers and started bending! All went well... A new f/c cage was made for once again accuracy and room for the fantasy driver. I also scratchbuilt a new seat for it as well. Has some curve to it for the what would be drivers shoulder area. I also layed down some paint... the color is Model Masters Steal... looks like that will be the main color for the frame. The control arms will be chrome silver to simulate chromoly. I also have changed my plans with the engine.... I'm going with a blown "Semi" Hemi... which is a Chevy Hemi! A blower shroud will be made for the hood area. Here are the pics: Heres a pic of the real frame, notice how the top rails bend in. I only did the drivers side on mine. I'll finally start the tub work tomorrow!
  22. Well here's the latest! I added some brackets for the four links on the back... they are scratched out of brass. I washed the frame so thats why there is water drops in a few spots The rear end I got not too long ago... its a peice from Top End Miniatures. The four links were scratched from aluminum tubing and metal rod. I'm getting some rod ends from a small company call RB Motion.. they will attach to the end of the four links and hook up to the brackets on the frame. I wanted to lay a thin coat primer on the frame.. here are some pics of that. If I need to add more bars the primer is thin enough to peel off so soldering more on isn't problem. I'm getting some sheet brass this week so I can do the tubs, door panels, firewall, floor, etc...
  23. Thanks man! For the brass I'm using 1/16" tube for the main portions and then for the bracing I'm using 3/64". When you scale it up its the closest to the real thing. All modern drag cars use 1 5/8" for the main portions of there frame. When you scale up 1/16" will equal 1 1/2" Yes I'm picky Heres a small tutorial I made on how I solder brass. I know theres other ways but this mine. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2577#2577 I'll have some updates later tomorrow or monday!
  24. Thanks Guys Wildrice this new RG engine is awesome, definitely one his best. The only thing I didn't like were the headers. I still have a crapload of work left... but hey thats half the fun I'll keep you guys posted!
  25. Well this my current project. Pretty much all scratchbuilt except for the engine, tires/wheels, the original body. The frame, wing, front suspension, seat, the small cowl hood scoop, wing, were all scratchbuilt with styrene or brass. The body was stretched to meet the longer wheelbase. http://freewebs.com/lumpysspeedshop
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