MarkJ

David, your sketch for the automatic shifter looks like it should work when you create the actual part from the sketch. All in all, the interior is coming along very nicely.

Did some more work on the seat and started on the head support. Did some touch up work where all the colors come together at the back of the roof. When I get the windshield and back glass moldings done it will look a lot better.

Steve, yes, I do. I have a small metal box with 3x5 cards in it and put the recipe on the card along with the name of the build and a dab of the paint on each card and I keep them in order of colors. Like all the blues are together and all of the reds are together etc. If I just use the paint as it comes in the bottle, I just note that in my build log because there is no mixing when I do that. I have only had to mix colors on a few of my builds like this one and the iroc Camaro's I did. .

Donato, thank you for stopping by with the much-appreciated comment. Do you have any new builds going on right now? I'd really enjoy seeing what you have going on. Your work is always top-drawer in every way.

Thanks, Steve. It took forever to mix enough white with the blue and aluminum to get the shade I wanted. Using the digital weighing scale makes it more accurate than trying to count drops if I ever need to mix the same color again. It made plenty of paint to go in the sealable condiment cup which is good because the first batch has to be strained into another cup to make sure it's clean, so it won't clog up the airbrush.

Here is how the blue turned out. I will not sand the blue because you should never try to sand or polish metallic paints. Just clear them and polish the clear and try not to polish through the clear to the paint. For the final mirror like appearance, you can use future or quick shine. I put that on with a wide very flexible bristle brush. Some people don't like super glossy paint jobs, but I lean the other way

Wow, David. That chrome around the windshield looks outstanding. Great job masking the moldings first before coloring the moldings.

Thanks, David. I finally got the blue parts of the body painted yesterday afternoon. I mixed 1-gram Createx wicked pearl blue with 1-gram wicked aluminum to get some sparkles in it and 24 grams of wicked pearl white. It takes a lot of white to lighten the shade of that blue but I think I got it pretty close. I saved some of the mixed paint for touch ups. I will shoot the whole body with Tamiya clear and polish it if need be and then after the decals I will future over the decals to make them peel proof with age.

Start of seat mods.

Good supply there. That should keep you busy. Mark.

Very cool. Makes sense that you would make a figure representing him. Nice tribute on your part to do so. That 3d printing is an amazing thing and I'm sure your modifications made for a perfect likeness.

Got the dash gauge image done. Will print it on white decal paper and cut it out and glue it in place just like you see it below. I might make wire circles to go around each gauge . Have to see if it's possible with my lack of dexterity phalanges.

Yes, mighty fine. Is that a 1/24 scale David standing next to the Rolls?

David, I think you've got it. That molding below the doors looks excellent from where I'm sitting. It's always great when a plan comes together. Congratulations.

Now that was pure racing at its finest. Allison and Pearson battled all day long barely rubbing fenders at times until finally Allison took the lead for the last time with seven laps to go for an awesome victory. No stage racing was needed . Neither driver and crew chief had to decide if they should pit before or after the stage, just all out racing from green flag through a couple of yellow flags till finally the checkered flag and the best driver and car prevailed on that day. The way every race should be run. Not like the ridiculous racing they have today. Every driver should try to win every race every time they get on the track. And every race should count as much as every other race. No final ten races to crown a champion amongst 16 drivers who most of them really have no legitimate chance to make it to the final 4. It's just all so ludicrous.

Thanks, Helmut and I totally agree with you. I watched the Nascar cup race yesterday and it put me to sleep. When I woke up, I found out my driver messed up leaving the pits and he missed moving on in the playoffs by 4 points. That playoff system is a joke and needs to be eliminated and go back to a pure points system like they had when this model was running in 1972. The correct champion was always crowned correctly back then.

Made a fire extinguisher tank and a rear axle oil cooler. All I lack now is making the dash where it will except an image of the gauges and switches that I can glue to the dash. I also need to add padding to the seat and some seat and shoulder harnesses and make a shifter and that should be it for the tub. Of course, all that stuff will have to be painted. Then I can paint the blue parts of the body and hopefully final assembly won't be too far away.

Looks like I went to a lot of trouble making the crosshatch bars at the left door. I went by the museum car that has them exposed. The real car has an aluminum panel hiding them. Thats old Mario standing there next to the museum car which also has the blue too dark on the outside of the car. You have to look hard to see the cage bars for the left door in the photo.

Now that I look at the schematic a little harder there is no oil tank in the right rear of the car, I was viewing the belt driven oil pump on the rear axle. There is only an electric blower fan in the inside of the car that circulates oil from the rear axle pump to cool it down before returning it to the axle. so, the tank behind the seat is a fire extinguisher and the oil cooler is the only other thing I need to put inside the rear of the car unless I choose to make the rear shock support bars..

Thank you so much Edgar for the schematic drawing of the interior of the 69 Torino. I believe whatever they had in 69 they probably also had it in 1967 as far as what's behind the rear seat. Also shows me the rear shock setup and there is a small oil tank in the right rear of the car. If you blow up the schematic you can barely see it. This is exactly what I was looking for.

Little bit more done. Still trying to find ref pictures for the interior. Clicked on one thing that told me my computer had been infected by a virus and not to turn it off but call a certain number to fix it. I immediately unplugged it and everything was fine of course. I did find a picture of the dash. You can't make out each individual gauge, but they are so small it doesn't really matter what order I have them in.

I know what you are talking about. Between honeydoos and running errands, I'm lucky to have any time in the afternoon to actually work on the model. Yesterday I spent half the day securing some Tamiya white spray primer in a rattle can so I can reprime the body where the sanding went through. I had to get my local hobby shop to order me some and they are an 18 mile round trip to get to. Hobby Lobby decided to not stock it anymore. It seems like they are trying to get out of the model car business and that will be sad for me if they do. Mark

David, that half round is going to work out beautifully. What did you decide on for the moldings on the doors and below the doors Mark

More work done. The strut in the left back is supposed to go through the hole, but it fell out when I was getting the picture ready to take and did not realize it. I have to keep the cage where I can take it out of the tub until final assembly of the tub. It's glued to the cage.

Thanks, Todd. If only I had a picture of it. I guess I can just fake it the best I can. I'm not going to plumb it or anything like that.