MarkJ

Todd, actually I was thinking about not revealing what it's going to be and not even having any text to go along with the build. Just start building it and let you guys figure out what it is. The topic name might be "Guess???" but it won't be in this forum. It will have to be in the WIP: Other Racing: Road Racing, Land Speed Racers forum. There won't even be a kit involved. It will be my attempt at completely scratch building a model from styrene, parts from my stash, and maybe a little putty here and there. If I can build the tires and wheels, I feel that I can go on from that point. If I can't then the build will come to an abrupt end. But I have to finish the Fairlane first.

Thanks for the info. I like that the basic Rolls Royce shape does not change over the years. Just about anybody can see a Rolls Royce and know that it is a Rolls Royce as long as it's like the one you are building here. Mark

Thats true. When you get in those huge scales like 1/12 and 1/8, I don't have any shelf space to display them in. 1/16 is about the largest I will be able to handle for shelf space and it will probably be my first and last 1/16 scale model if I am able to complete it. Mark

Wow, every time I look at this build it looks better and better. Now what exactly is the year and model of this Rolls Royce and various particulars about it, like engine type and size, and anything else you would like to share and also what scale is this model? You might have already covered this but I'm too lazy to go back and find it. Mark.

You can usually tell from the window net that looks way to big and fills the whole opening of the left side glass area. Also, the wheelbase isn't quite right, and the wheels and tires are too large but whoever made the decals for that tiny build did a magnificent job. My next build is going to be 1/16 scale and the model will be 10.5 inches long. Decals for that should be very easy. Mark

Thanks, David for stopping by. Always like all the ref photos I can get my hands on. That little guy looks like it might be 1/64 scale. Pretty good job for that scale. I won't even attempt a build a model that small.

Got the gold shot today and learned some things while doing it. When I shot the red, I mixed the 4011 thinner which Createx calls reducer at 2 grams of reducer to 5 grams of paint. and it did okay. I decided to go with 4021 reducer this time instead of 4011 with the gold and when I shot it, it was way too watery coming out of the airbrush. I made another batch at 1 gram of 4021 to 5 grams of paint, and it was just fine. The 4021 is advertised as a more free flowing reducer that eliminates air brush tip dry out and also gives a smooth finish instead of a gravely one which happens when the paint dries when it hits the body and doesn't flow out. I will be using the 4021 when I paint the blue parts of the model. This is the same gold I used on the Bobby Allison Monte Carlo and it still has the iridescence I liked so much on that model. I'm being really frugal with my photo posting so I can make it to the 22nd.

David, My current build is the 1967 Ford Fairlane that Mario Andretti drove to victory in at the 1967 Daytona 500. It has some moldings around the windshield and back glass that need done that I usually use a small brush and acrylic silver metallic paint to get them done. I hope to paint the roof gold metallic today if the weather outside stays dry. It's over at the Nascar wip forum if you want to take a look at it. I haven't posted many pictures lately because I'm running low on air time on my phone and don't want to pay a penalty on my next bill. I will have full airtime again on the 22nd of this month. Apparently posting photos from my phone on Verizon e-mail uses a lot of airtime for each photo. Continue on your quest for healthy modeling. It has been an enlightening journey for us that have health issues but still want and have to model. Mark

Looking great. I might have to try that on my current build.

That left front door window frame looks excellent from where I'm standing. Just do that to the rest of them and you will be all set.

Painted the wheels while I wait to get some cotton gloves to mask the roof sides so I can shoot the gold. I'm having a hard time getting the thin pieces of masking tape to stick and even using latex gloves keeps the masking tape from sticking to the back of masking tape that has already been applied. I saw a guy using cotton gloves to mask with, so I thought I would give it a try. I'm still waiting for my airtime to get out of jeopardy, but I was able to post one picture without getting too close to going over time.

David, check your private messages. I finally got the photo of the Rolls edited. You cand see what kind of Rolls itis

The fine sanding pads worked so now I will mask them and shoot the gold on the roof and if that turns out okay, I will then mask that and shoot the rest of the body blue. I have started the chassis, and it should not be too much trouble getting it done.

David, that's why I said I believed it was a Silver Arrow but actually I forgot, so it must have been a Silver Cloud. I said I would post a picture, but I forgot that I should not so when I can private message you with the photo you can confirm if it was a Silver Cloud. It sure was a beautiful car and maintained very well.

We hired a company in Galveston that uses Rolls Royce automobiles as chauffer driven limousines for our 50th wedding anniversary. I believe ours was a white 1964 Silver arrow. It picked us up at our house and drove us 25 miles to Galveston to our favorite restaurant, "Rudy and Pacos". The chauffer waited while we ate and returned us home. It was a wonderful and memorable way to celebrate our 50th anniversary. I have pictures but I will have to make them more anonymous before posting them.

Glad you are getting excellent results from the masking. I never thought about using a sharpie before. I never had good results with the molotov products. If you ever touched them even after they were dry, they dulled out very badly. Maybe the sharpie dries harder.

Sanded down the small areas of the roof that need to be red and shot them with the air brush today but it's still not quite right. I will try the 6000, 8000, 12000 routine and see if that fixes it. if not, I guess i just need to completely remove any sign of the old paint or that horrible Tamiya acrylic primer I had to brush on that started this fiasco in the first place. If I can just get it down to bare plastic, I will just shoot the red to bare plastic and not prime it at all since I have no source for rattle can Tamiya white primer. My lhs has a hard time keeping up with their stock. Maybe the tariff stuff is keeping them from getting any.

Kevin, I'm looking forward to you building it. This was the car in 1966 that got all the Chevy fans excited about Nascar again.

True but the wheels had to be opened up on that car as well and it had a little lip at the end of the back glass opening at the top of the rear of the roof. It was one of my favorite builds.

Thanks, Kevin. I think the 60's are my favorite decade of Nascar with the 50's coming in a close second. Not much detailing needs to be done as far as body mods are concerned . They were basically really stock cars. and usually the paint jobs were one color. I'm not a real fan of doing two and three tone paint jobs.

Seems I've let my airtime get too low again so photos will be few and far between till the 22nd. But I can tell you that i brush painted the sides of the roof and major failure. I have already forgotten how to put the acrylic paint on with a bristle brush and get good results so I will rub them down smooth and try again. Just did not want to set up the airbrush for that small of an area. No bigee just try again.

Congrats, David. That last picture you posted is a definite winner. I can read the printing on the box next to the model. When that happens, you have reached your goal in the paint department. Bravo!

Believe it or not. Acrylic paint is your best bet when doing chrome trim. get some very thin 1/16 of an inch black art tape. The one I show is 1/8 inch below, but you can get the 1/16-inch size and mask the moldings on their edges and just paint the moldings with silver acrylic paint, I recommend Createx but you can also use Vallejo thinned enough to go on smoothly and use a very thin tiny brush. I would show you my results but that would not work. Believe me with a little patience and time you can do a very nice job.

Smoothed the brush painted Tamiya primer with the hand pads and then primed it with some leftover rattle can Tamiya primer I found. I just had enough to cover the gray that showed through after the rubbing process. I will post pictures of it tomorrow. Turned out okay so a quick smoothing of the rattle can primer and I can start painting the body with air brush. I've got a few more good weather days left this week to hopefully get it done. I will have to brush paint the red on the sides of the roof but should only need two more days to paint the gold and the blue.

For fine scratches you need to start with 6000 and work your way up to 12000. 1000 will add lots of deep scratches. Hobby Lobby sells a pack that starts with 2000 and works up to 12000. When you get to 12000 you should be able to see your face in the roof like a mirror, especially because its black.