MarkJ

Now that was pure racing at its finest. Allison and Pearson battled all day long barely rubbing fenders at times until finally Allison took the lead for the last time with seven laps to go for an awesome victory. No stage racing was needed . Neither driver and crew chief had to decide if they should pit before or after the stage, just all out racing from green flag through a couple of yellow flags till finally the checkered flag and the best driver and car prevailed on that day. The way every race should be run. Not like the ridiculous racing they have today. Every driver should try to win every race every time they get on the track. And every race should count as much as every other race. No final ten races to crown a champion amongst 16 drivers who most of them really have no legitimate chance to make it to the final 4. It's just all so ludicrous.

Thanks, Helmut and I totally agree with you. I watched the Nascar cup race yesterday and it put me to sleep. When I woke up, I found out my driver messed up leaving the pits and he missed moving on in the playoffs by 4 points. That playoff system is a joke and needs to be eliminated and go back to a pure points system like they had when this model was running in 1972. The correct champion was always crowned correctly back then.

Made a fire extinguisher tank and a rear axle oil cooler. All I lack now is making the dash where it will except an image of the gauges and switches that I can glue to the dash. I also need to add padding to the seat and some seat and shoulder harnesses and make a shifter and that should be it for the tub. Of course, all that stuff will have to be painted. Then I can paint the blue parts of the body and hopefully final assembly won't be too far away.

Looks like I went to a lot of trouble making the crosshatch bars at the left door. I went by the museum car that has them exposed. The real car has an aluminum panel hiding them. Thats old Mario standing there next to the museum car which also has the blue too dark on the outside of the car. You have to look hard to see the cage bars for the left door in the photo.

Now that I look at the schematic a little harder there is no oil tank in the right rear of the car, I was viewing the belt driven oil pump on the rear axle. There is only an electric blower fan in the inside of the car that circulates oil from the rear axle pump to cool it down before returning it to the axle. so, the tank behind the seat is a fire extinguisher and the oil cooler is the only other thing I need to put inside the rear of the car unless I choose to make the rear shock support bars..

Thank you so much Edgar for the schematic drawing of the interior of the 69 Torino. I believe whatever they had in 69 they probably also had it in 1967 as far as what's behind the rear seat. Also shows me the rear shock setup and there is a small oil tank in the right rear of the car. If you blow up the schematic you can barely see it. This is exactly what I was looking for.

Little bit more done. Still trying to find ref pictures for the interior. Clicked on one thing that told me my computer had been infected by a virus and not to turn it off but call a certain number to fix it. I immediately unplugged it and everything was fine of course. I did find a picture of the dash. You can't make out each individual gauge, but they are so small it doesn't really matter what order I have them in.

I know what you are talking about. Between honeydoos and running errands, I'm lucky to have any time in the afternoon to actually work on the model. Yesterday I spent half the day securing some Tamiya white spray primer in a rattle can so I can reprime the body where the sanding went through. I had to get my local hobby shop to order me some and they are an 18 mile round trip to get to. Hobby Lobby decided to not stock it anymore. It seems like they are trying to get out of the model car business and that will be sad for me if they do. Mark

David, that half round is going to work out beautifully. What did you decide on for the moldings on the doors and below the doors Mark

More work done. The strut in the left back is supposed to go through the hole, but it fell out when I was getting the picture ready to take and did not realize it. I have to keep the cage where I can take it out of the tub until final assembly of the tub. It's glued to the cage.

Thanks, Todd. If only I had a picture of it. I guess I can just fake it the best I can. I'm not going to plumb it or anything like that.

Cage is slowly coming together. I have to use old timey Testors glue in the tube because the Tamiya liquid glue is too hot and makes the styrene break in a 90-degree angle. So, it is slow going for sure. Luckily it's not a very complicated cage. Plus, I don't have to make a window net for this car. It did not have one. I have to make a tank that goes behind the seat. I guess it's an oil tank. Not sure. Actual pictures of the real interior would help. I made it out from an overhead shot into the car on the banking. you can barely make it out but it's there.

Great looking fit for sure.

You might want to try something like this. You can order it online and probably also get it from amazon. I always use Evergreen because it's what Hobby Lobby sells. But they do not have the half round. 240 - .040" (1.0mm) OPAQUE WHITE POLYSTYRENE HALF ROUND - Evergreen Scale Models Mark

Got it. So, you just need to add a molding. That doesn't sound bad at all. I misunderstood the situation. Mark

Some more done. If anybody has a photo of the dash and seat on a 1967 Holman and Moody Ford Fairlane from the Daytona 500, if you could post it here it would be much appreciated. I found some before but since then, they have been locked away where I can't get to them anymore. I guess I can start on the cage for now till I can decide on whether to use the 66 Comet dash and seat that I did on that model a couple of years ago and hope it is close.

I see what you're saying but is it even possible to narrow those moldings successfully to make them match the real car in the photo. Your only option would be removing them completely and adding narrow ones in place of them. That would be a task you might not want to get involved in, but you have to do what you think you need to do. Whatever your decision I'm sure you will have a good result. Mark

Looking good. Did you ever try using the future to protect the silver sharpie. I put it on everything. Mark

Thanks, David. If you have ever built a balsa and tissue model airplane you will understand the approach I will have to building this next model. The only difference is I'm using styrene tubes and square rods and styrene sheets instead of balsa stringers and tissue paper. I will use an overhead and side view of the model in scale to build off of. I will have 5 bulkheads as I call them to have something to connect everything together with the sguare rods. Mark

Thanks, Steve. I finally got the body to fit the chassis yesterday after a lot of surgery under the hood that thankfully won't show because I glued the hood shut. Typical AMT kit that doesn't go together that well and you have to do a lot of things to make it fit. Now I can go ahead and finish the tub and get this baby painted and built.

Thanks, David. I agree. It just came over me one day to build a certain car that there are really no kits for and diecast kits for them are over 2000 bucks and I wouldn't want to build a diecast kit anyway. The only problem is I keep sneaking on to the computer to work on the next build when I should be working on the Fairlane. The reason it is 1:16 scale is the plan I'm making to build the model off of has to fit on an 8.5 inch by 11 inch piece of paper. The model will be 10.5 inches so it will just fit on that size piece of paper and that happens to make the model 1:16 scale. If I can make the wheels and tires for it, I think can do it, but if I can't, I will just throw in the towel and build something else.

Got some more done on the chassis. Added more filler panels to the interior tub and trimmed up the package shelf so it looks like it should. I can go ahead and mask the body and get it ready for the blue after I figure out a recipe for it that I can duplicate the same every time I need to mix some up.

Getting into the chassis now. To remove the rear seat, you have to add a new rear bulkhead and reattach the package shelf to it but it's very flimsy, so you have to add a center support. I flipped the door trim from left to right so I don't have to remove all the armrest and trim panel garnish. you just need to drill holes where the handles poke through. You also have to remove the top of the door trim and add a new one to fill in between the door trim and the door and quarter panel at the top. I will eventually remove that excess plastic at the top of the new rear bulkhead and also fill in the stuff in the rear seat floor area. I was careful to let the rear fenders show through inside the rear of the car like the real car had it.

Yes, the Quickshine is the new name for future but it's the same stuff. I always use this product on every build I have. My home-made decals would eventually peel off the model just sitting in a clear case if I did not use it and I have never witnessed it yellowing with age on any of my builds. The oldest of them being 18 years old. Of course, all of my builds are stored in clear plastic airtight cases.

Tomorrow, I get out of airtime prison and will be able to post more photos. I just can't go crazy with it and keep it to one or two photos per day.