MarkJ

The gold one is a sedan not a coupe.

I am finally ready to paint the body. I had to order some paint from scalefinishes because I could not find the right color from Tamiya or Testors in an aerosol can. I will have to dust off my airbrush and relearn how to use it. Its been years since I have used it. I have heard good things about scalefinishes and have seen pictures of models on google that were finished with their paints and they looked beautiful. I have a spare body to practice on before I paint this one. I need to add some more putty to the seats and do some more sanding and I need to add door handles to the door trim panels. A great friend on the board has come through and will send me the missing wheels I need.

O.C. That is incredibly beautiful. Perfectly clean and perfect paint. The engine is really outstanding.

John go to your private messages. I have a question for you.

You might just be right about that , John. I guess we will see when it is finished.

Thanks, Frank. But I think a great friend I have on the board says he will send me the wheels out of a kit he has. But thank you for the info. I really appreciate it.

When the owner of the original car got it from the factory, he decided to put aftermarket seat covers on the seats to protect them. I am trying to duplicate them the best I can using one picture from a bad angle. The original car had different trim panels then what comes in the kit so I am trying to change them to look a little more like what was on the real car. Again the picture I have is not that good quality so they will just be in the ball park but not exactly like the ones that came in the real car. I will have to make new door handles from scratch but it should not be that hard. They are just small pieces of rod and strips glued together.

Thanks, Niko. I'm pretty sure that someone will have that kit at the ipms show in april.

I decided to continue with the build because the wheel tire assembly's are almost the last thing that goes on the model before its finished. Then in April if I can find that kit I will go ahead and finish it completely.

I ran into a road block yesterday. I decided to go ahead and prep all the parts that needed priming and found that the wheels are missing out of the kit. I bought this kit 2nd hand at the ipms show in Stafford texas many years ago and it seemed like everything was in the kit at that time. Actually I think that the wheels are the only thing that are missing. This kit was reissued not too long ago by round 2 so I guess I will wait till april when the show comes back and hope that one of the vendors has one for sale. So I guess I will have to shelve this build till then. I looked through my parts box but could not find any wheels that could take the place of the kit wheels. I have some Holman and Moody 9 inch rims I bought from p.p.p. but they are 1/24 scale and too deep set. So I guess this wip will have to end for a while till then. This has taught me a lesson. Completely inventory the kit before starting a build. Thanks guys for all the positive comments

Thanks, Rick. I really appreciate your reply

Got the first primer coat on. A couple more rounds of primer and block sanding should get the body ready for paint.

I used this kit to do my Wendell Scott Chevy.

The body is all sanded and washed and ready for primer. Hopefully this afternoon.

That conversion looks perfect Alan. Cant wait to see more.

I made back glass mouldings from half round styrene strips. I am through with the roof mods and ready to move on to priming the body and then painting. The back glass snapped into place pretty good. When I do the final install of the back glass I can get it to fit a little more flush in the corners. It will actually fit better than some kit glasses I have installed.

I have to make a back glass so this I how I'm going about it. I used just regular old printer paper. Draped it around the outside of the opening then trace on it from the inside to give myself a pattern for the glass. It still has to be trimmed but it gets me in the ballpark. You cut out the paper pattern and transfer it to some clear plastic. I got this clear plastic from a knife sharpener I got for Christmas. Never throw away your clear plastic packaging material it might come in handy some day. I installed some strips around the back glass opening and this will allow me to just snap the glass into place using the strips to hold it there. I borrowed my wife's hair dryer to heat and bend the back glass into the basic shape I need. I tried using some evergreen clear plastic sheet but it was too thick and when I tried to bend it, it left stretch marks in the plastic. I will still probably need to use some white glue but hopefully just a minimal amount. The strip at the bottom of the opening is actually two strips which form a type of gutter for the glass to sit in.

Me and zap don't get along. The fumes are tough on my asthma. Regular testors glue doesn't seem to bother it. I have to make things fit before I glue them unless you have a situation where you can use small clamps. also I have had things glued with zap come apart with age. BACK GLASS AND MORE IS ON THE NEXT PAGE.

Alan, I don't understand your question. I did use strip styrene for the frames. The quarter glass frame was cut out from a piece of sheet styrene because its much harder to make a strip adhere to a bend like that.

Thanks, Dan. I appreciate the feedback.

That cage looks spectacular.

Yes, The MCW cast is a great product. I'm really not interested in casting and I doubt that what I am doing is as good as the MCW resin body.