ViperDave

I liked the body in the pics that I had for referance so I decided to leave the numbers off and make it a street version.

First off if you hear that I am about to use the old testors spray cans of paint PLEASE kick me in the butt and stop me. I wanted the Ivory on the 2-tone so I used a new can of testors enamal spray. I have the color in a bottle and could have used the air brush but I thought the can would put it on a little thicker and it would give me some paint to work with so I could sand it smooth. Well it did just that. THICK is the word. I guess is isn't really that thick but thicker than I wanted it to be. First I used BMF on the emblems so I can polish it off later then I layed on thin coats. Orange peel city. I keep with the thin coats and it was looking better. I keep an eye on it for the dreaded RUNS, but over the years you learn how to lay down some coats and end up with "No Runs, No errors". I still worry though. I took off the masking tape after about 20 mins and put it in the dehydrator to let it bake for a couple of days. I have used testors and was able to sand in 1 day but this paint seems so sticky I just need to be patient and let it dry good first. The white is the primer that I used since the Ivory was a light color. Next I will mask off the Ivory and I am using dark bronze metallic, mopar color close to the trubine car bronze. After that drys I will sand the Ivory till it is smooth and shoot a couple of coats of clear. You know the drill. Sand, Polish, wipe off finger prints, BMF, wipe off finger prints, take some pics, wipe off finger prints, ECT. I am getting a lot of satisfaction in restoring these old models that have been sitting in my display case for 40+ years. I hope you enjoy them.

Has anybody built the Protar Version of the Ferrari 250 GTO. I have other versions but thought I would build this one first then go for the Gunze with all the Photo Etched parts. I was wondering if there was anything that I should watch for when building the kit. Thanks Dave

It's the Fujimi kit and is a curbside. I set it together but I have to give it a second coat of paint and maybe one shot of clear so I don't polish off the rivits in the body. It is OTB since it didn't have a complete engine. I didn't want to rush it and mess something up on this nice and kind of expensive kit but I will have it finished in a couple of days. . .

First AMT tells us they aren't making any new kits including the 2-in-1 70 Cuda and so we wait for the second best, the new R-M version. Now we get another funny car body.

If it was 1962 they would have got it right the first time. The old Johan kits use to have very nice looking bodies. Too bad the guy who did the interiors must have been about 4'11' and made the interiors to fit him.

I looked at the pic and the rear fender didn't look right. The Cuda's upper body line on the rear fender starts to bend just about where the chrome strip on the C-Pillar points. That is the highest point that it makes and it goes down all the way to the back of the fender. On the 71 Cuda model it is a little off and on the old AAR kit it is also off. Both seem to peek about about 1/2 inch to far back or 1 foot for a real car. On the new kit it looks like the highest point of the rear fender is about mid way between the back corner of the rear window and the front corner of the trunk. That would put it back aboout 1 inch or 2 feet on the real car. The pic looks like the body line makes a smooth curve from where it starts all the way to the back. No kink up at the rear window. I hope it is just the angle of the pic and not the way the body is molded. So you ask what difference it makes. Well if you have a set of Fred Cady decals for the AAR that look correct they won't line up right and if you want to make the 70 Hemi Cuda by using another hood and using Cady's hockey stick stripes they won't line up either. For the good parts from what I see. They did raise the window line at the rear and the side window looks better. I also looks like they made the sides of the back window straight and didn't use the Challenger window. It's hard to tell for sure from the angle of the pic. It does seem that the trunk is a little short or the rear window is too short. I think the real car is about 7 inches from the chrome to the trunk edge and the new model looks like 10. I will have to make some measurement when I buy the kit. I hope someone else took more pics at different angles so I can get a better look. I might be a little picky but I have been waiting for a long time to get a correct body so I can make the 48 Gurney Cuda. . This is the pic I use in my profile. (I am the short one) You can see the correct shape of the rear fender and the rear of the roof line. It looks like they corrected somethings but I guess this is the best we are ever going to get. They still missed.

I'm sorry that I didn't say it the right way. I was just rambling on and on. I mean that if I didn't want any feedback I wouldn't have posted the pics. I like to read about what other people think because sometimes the way I see things isn't the way other people see it. I started this about 2 years ago and did the wheel wells then. I had smaller tires on it at the time and it sat lower. With these tires it sits higher and didn't look right and I hadn't looked at what options I had. I thought about filling them in and makeing lines for skirts and even full skirts all the way to the back. I like the wheels and wanted to show them off but I didn't like full circle openings on that car. I have the car lower now and the wheel cut outs almost up to the whitewall. I know the extentions on the tail lights are larger than some people like but I think from the side it balances out the length of the front. This is the Cadzilla resin body with a lot of modifications. The tail lights will have 2 small bullits with clear red around them to look like the little 51-52? style buick lights. I left the little bump over the lights to give it the buick look. I am going with a little bit different color too. White pearl with some metallic in it. It's nail polish. I will be using a medium blue pearl to do some fading around the body to hi-light the body curves. Thanks for the input. I didn't mean anything negative about your comment. Sorry if it sounded that way. I am always open to anybodys view on my work. It's just a hobby and I wouldn't have any hard feelings to any of my fellow model builders. Thanks Dave

IN that pic it was just sitting together. I opend up the rear wheel wells some more and made them rounder. It looks much better. I don't know if you know Ted "Chopper" Lear or not but he was over here last night and did some drawing on the car and I think it looks better with the bigger wheel wells. I have them centered and the marks made on my flat chassis where I will put the supports for the axles to go through. My next step is making the interior side panels and dreaming up some kind of pattern that will look right with the seats. Thanks for the comments. I posted the pics to see what people think. When you get that it leaves you open but I would rather know what people think before I get it finished. Thanks Dave

I have been working on the body for a while now. I have it almost ready for paint but it is now time to do the interior. I am having to scratch build the whole thing to make it fit the body since the body is resin. I am using an original dash from a 60 Chrysler and the custom seats from the new 57 Ford kit. I have a 61 Buick Special steering wheel to keep the Buick theme. I will be making my own door panels and I think I will be modifing the full length console from the 57 Ford kit but that isn't etched in stone yet. The wheels and tires are from the 58 Eldorado kit. I still have a long way to go but little by little it is getting there. I hope you enjoy the pics. Don't tear me up too much on this one. It is meant to be a little wild.

Since there isn't a lot missing I am going to use some scrap custom parts from one of the old Johan kits and file out some smooth sides and glue in a plug with liquid cement. That way it will bond to itself and should hold up ok. I might run some superglue on the bottom. I have to make new wheel wells in the back since they are much smaller than the Chrysler skirts were. I will be using as much plastic as I can to make them. If I was going to be doing some major body work and sanding a lot I would use some metal in the back to hold it in place.

I have some work to do fixing the body but I want to bring this old Johan Mopar back to life. . .

455 was right about the first 2. 64 Cutlass's. The third one is a 64 Buick Wildcat, and the last one is a 64 Fairlane sport coupe.

IL checked the slelf this morning and it was already leaking oil. I will have to keep the screens clean.

I't come a long way since I orded it with cereal box tops back in 1964. I took the old model and resoted it. . .

I got this one by sending off cereal box tops in 1964. I am about finished with the restoration. Just some touch ups and BMF around the wheel wells and rocker panels . .

I will be watching this project. I saved the pics too. My buddy in GA use to have a 70 Sportroof and was asking me about making one. I will show him the pics and maybe start the body. His other toy is a 66 T-bird town landau. He has the models of it allready.

I have one of those and I hope it comes out as nice.

I aggree. After all. Thats the it probably suppose to be but they painted theirs black since it was up on the Christmas tree. Great work on the old Palmer snap kit. I can't wait till next week when you get it finished.

http://www.moparstyle.net/history/images/DCP_5013.jpg

I could have told you anything you needed to know about the Posey Car. I am the one who restored the real car. I am in the process of restoring the #76 Challenger right now. What you can add is the front window clips, the rear bars over the window, and remove the mirror on the left side. The car had a scoop that took air off the window and went around the A Pillar and inside to car to cool the driver. Also you need to bare metal the front edge of the hood and fender tips. I could go on and on but I won't. I looks good and of course it was always the brightest car in Trans am racing. Thanks ViperDave

This is the Monogram 1/43 289 Cobra. I have picked up the project that I started a couple of years ago. I have cut open the trunk and doors, Wired the motor, put aluminum on the inside front fender wells, and have got the photoetched wheels put together. I have plans for using more aluminum in the engine compartment, plumping the brakes, heater hoses, radiator hoses, battery cables from the trunk. I have also opened up the vents in the front fenders. Thanks for viewing. . .

This is to see if it comes up in my signature.