The Creative Explorer

Thanks again, A 500 dollar investment is not an option here tough. I need to find cheaper ways. Why the rubber? aren't there other mastermold making stuff? I heard of something called plasticine or something.

Bob, it isn't that hard. lets take for example one of the pictures you already have on LIARS. click with the right mousekey on the picture and choose 'properties' click on it, and then look at: address(url). Copy the whole line but stop just after the .jpg part. so you get this: http://images32.fotki.com/v1065/photos/5/5...V2007063-vi.jpg Paste this in your post and put the following in front of the link Note: do not use spaces anywhere! unless they were already in the link.

Thanks Chris, I knew it isn't Iron, but didn't know the exact name, I do know it is probably not whitemetal. I am not planning on doing a lot with Resin, but who knows if I can get this project to a good result. If I get a realistic GTTurbo, I do plan to make several, so I can make a couple different variations. I'm not really looking forward tough to buy a 100+ dollar pump, which I might never use again. But trial and error seems to be unavoidable. It's going to be very tricky. And I am thinking of making a 2 part mold for the body. I think it is doable.

This is a massive work-in-progress. Good luck!

PDF's should be able to come in a smaller size. I would prefer PDF probably, so I can print them out and read them in a relaxing-chair. I don't know what it is, but reading at a screen isn't that interesting. What would you estimate how much a online subscription would cost? But I assume the magazine isn't available in stores in Europe?

The car is already parted out. But to begin modifying, I need to have a Resin copy, I already gave it a try in sanding the iron, but is undo-able. I never had ay experience with molding and casting, so I need all the help there is to get. I was thinking the same with the fenders and such. The wheels shouldn't be that hard. They're simple in shape.

Headliner has been painted bij hand after the paintjob. But next project gets a cloth headliner. The other interior parts were spraypainted prior to be installed. Hope this helps.

Do not forget that the US-Dollar is the cause in this matter! And buying those kits for those prices is still not thát bad. In Europe the Nismo cost about 50-60 dollars. You guys in the states are very lucky with the prices. Especially the foreign kits. For 10 buck you have a kit. The cheapest in Europe are from Revell AG and costs at least 25 dollars for the most simple. Do you blame me stocking and shiiping more than 90 kits while being in the states?

Thanks, I am going to take a look.

Is the Model Cars Magazine available in Europe? Before subscrbing, would love to see a magazine. And 50 bucks for 'only' 9 issues is a bit much.The 30 bucks for in the States are very good, but it is quite some money for overseas. And I do understand the shipping position. On the homepage it said that there were some downloadable PDF-files, I seem not being able to find them?

Very nice car, with a very nice colour. The '57 is still my most favourite Chevy. If I may be so free to comment; the windscreen wipers would look better with a little bit black on the rubber part. And if you BMF them as a seperate part, they would've looked even better.

Jonathan; buy the kit. It is wellworth it. The biggest issue with this kit is the hood, which fits quite bad. But not impossible. keep in mind that if you want to make a realistic F40 Competizione, there's a lot of effort needed.

Ok, this will be my most challenging project to me so far. What do I want to do? Simple, I want to make a model of my car. So why don't you do it? Again simple, there is none. Then you got a problem; Yes I know and here I need your help. The only solution lays in converting a die-cast model. Let's start with some pictures; This is the car I want to make, it is the Renault 5 Gtturbo phase 2. The diecast modelcar is a Renault 5 TSE, that looks like this: See the differences? The actual modelcar looks like this: The shape is actual pretty close, but a lot of details that are different. What needs to be different is the following: -Bumpers around -Skirts -Spolier -fenders -getting rid of the plastic guards on the sides of the car -different grille -different wheels. The best way is probably to make those parts myself, to keep the costs low. I hope the resin-casters in here can help me out. First thing I need to do is make a resin model of this die-cast. This will simplyfied and be easier to modify then the iron. The guards for example are molded-in, so the need to be sanded all out, which is undoable in iron, but makes it a lot easier when it is resin. Please some advice how I can make a mold for the model to start with.

James, could you send me pics/more info about the 84 Celica? never seen that one in a EM series. Pretty curious. Rollin: The scale is the usual 1/24 and the kit came like this, a trademark for the Enthusiast series is that both trunk and hood are openable.

@Dave; I just bought this kit earlier this year online on eBay, not knowing what to expect. But I must say that this kit came together very well. The interior could've been a bit more detailled, but still good. I cut out the posts tough, to give it a nicer look. @Neal, the decals came with the kit.

This was a picture of when I bought this kit, together with the Merc. There are no plans in using the merc in this project. I do use parts of Porsche's for this one, like the steering wheel and the seats, gives just a bit more oumph to the transporter. Getting a 190 back in The Netherlands is very cheap, it's not a big thing like in the states.

Nice one again! Maybe post pics like this? It makes it a bit more convenient to look at your projects.

Fit helps, but it isn't the determing factor with me. The enthusiast kits are large in partcounts, but the fit isn't that good always. I have a real big struggle with the Tamiya Tyrell kit, it sucks just big time. So I just buy kits more on 'emotional' decissions, rather than rational. I know for example the 06 Camaro kit is a huge hit for AMT, I do live in the Portland area at the moment, and the kit is nowhere to be found.

I tend lately to go and buy kits of cars I like. I don't look so much anymore to the kit-brand. I had some very postive and negative experiences with almost any kit-brand, including Tamiya. Who produces some terrible kits too. What does it for me is simply a lot of detailled parts. I go crazy with the Enthusiasts, but I do love to build de ProModelShop '57 Chevy too. And there are some more. A nice fit would be desirable, but it is not going to stop me buying a kit.

Thanks, For all interested; I made a tutorial in the Big Boyz section. Let me know if it's any good. I am still a foreigner

The graphics came with the kit. Normally I am not favourable for a lot of stickerrrs on a car, but this would look cool

I got a couple of Ferrari's, Lambo's, BMW's and Porsche's. With some kits I am not even interested in the subject, but more in the kit itseld

Beautiful build. I assume that the grille is PE? Wonderful detailing on the engine!

Upon request I am making a tutorial for the Revell/Monogram 1/8th kit of a Jaguar XKE or E-type. Step 1: Preparing. What I did to prepare the body wasn't difficult. I primed the body halves with 2 coats and roughly sanded it. I primed the interior tub with only a light coat of plastic adhesive primer. Didn't sand it and painted the interior tub in the desired colour. When you're done with filling up the seems, you cannot spraypaint the interior anymore. So it has to be done prior to. Make a lot of dry-fits, this kit is notorious for it's fitting. there needs to be made some cuts in the firewall, otherwise the firewall and the upper body halve do not flushfit very well. Step 2: Glueing. The most important key is getting the right glue! Normal modelling glue will not do. I found 2 component industrial strength glue. Get the best glue you can find. It is very important, because you don't want to crack the paintjob on the seamlines. This will stay a fragile point at alltime. So sand down all the places where glue needs to be placed. Also very important for strength. Glue the firewall to the interior tub and let it stay overnight, maybe 2 nights. Be aware that every joint needs to be glued, wherever the firewall meets the tub, glue it. Find all the points where you can gain strength. When the glue has set on the tub, glue the tub and the firewall to the lower bodyhalve of the Jaguar. And let it set for a long time again. If you want to use the doormechanism and hinges, this is the time to place them onto the upper body halve. Later on it is impossible. Now the hardest part. Use as much glue as you can ( not blobbing, but use it over as much square millimeters as you can and also on the insides of the body's where it will be unnoticable. And glue the both body halves together. Use tape to hold the body halves together. Because of the strength needed, I also place the rear-floorpan in the car. I did NOT glued it, it snaps in and you need to remove it for painting. Step 4: Sanding and filling Relax, the hardest part has been done. First you have to sand down the differences in the bodypanels, not really hard. after that, just filling and sanding and filling and sanding and filling and sanding and you get my drift there. Until you get a nice smooth finish. Step 5: painting Preparing is simpel, you already have the body primed, so what you need to do first is cover up the interior tub. so no paint is coming on you nice-painted interior. Also remover the rear-floorpan in this step. When you're done prepping the body, just paint the car. Step 6: finalizing. Because many steps has been changed because of this, it could sometimes be a challenge to fit the parts in the car. some tips: -Prepare the whole engine completely and fit the engine with its subframe after you painted the car -Install the dashboard in the car part by part. But do not install the top-cover, that goes on when the windscreen is in place. -Install the rear-floorpan only when you finalized the interior completely AND having the windows in place. This way gives you a bit more workspace for your hands. -The rest should be do-able. Forgive me about the pictures, but I didn't make a lot of the first process Ps. If I made a more interesting tekst, would this be a nice article for ModelcarsMagazine?

Thanks. I needed more than 3 months of trying to figure it out and many, many long nights. If you guys want, I can write a tutorial in de big-scale forum?