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The Creative Explorer

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Everything posted by The Creative Explorer

  1. I either just paint it freehand or I use Tamiya masking tape and spray it black.
  2. Just noticed 5 wheelnuts in the center. Enzo has a central nut system.
  3. Model, wheels are not deep enough, weird model. I would say the mulimedia wheelskit from MrModeller. The doors looks like they cannot be opened, so could be a Revell Enzo as base-model and the mentioned Antenna.
  4. I am going to look into it, but I'm not really into that look. Im not very fond of the 'german' look. But I am going to look into it, I could widen it 2mm. Which doesnt make it that bad. There's not a lot of space between the body and the wheels though. We'll see I had the other day also a idea of raising the transporter to make it a syncro look.
  5. The Transporter is not getting aloy wheels, just couldn't find the right set. So for the original GTI looks, I put on some stock steelie's, looked pretty good actually
  6. Nice one, I think I've seen one of those paintjobs on a Gumball3000 car, I think it was a Impreza, Lancer or Lamborghini, can't quite remember,
  7. CHRISTMAS SONGS!!!!! LOTS OF IT!!!! it is the best period of the year, well, I just like it But normally the hit-radio in the Netherlands, sometimes good ol Rock&Roll to get in time correct projects.
  8. Nice one, I just bought this Resin body a couple of weeks ago. Looking at the bpdy. I bought a C5 Convertible with it. Since the XLR is a convertible too. But in the end, you still need to modify quite some parts. That's the challenge tough
  9. I've downloaded the manual of the 250GTO couple of days ago, and when I return back in the Netherlands, I am going to buy several 250's. The kit got really nice detail. I was impressed for Revell ( even it is a Protar ) Talk about value for money
  10. If the kit was from the right car; it would've been less work. But, the proportions, size, shape, wheels, interiour, basically everything, is different from the Tamiya kit. So the Tamiya kit not an option at all. Unfortunately. The best shot I have is converting the diecast. and altough I do know it isn't easy, it is not impossible either. First I need to make a resin cast of the diecast, so modifying would be a enormous lot easier.
  11. No problem, Glad I could help. Afterall; we're here to learn aren't we? I am sorry to interrupt your topic with this picture, but the Cuda script on the back of the car is BMF'ed, sprayed and with q-tip and thinner uncovered. Hard to see in this picture tough, but it gives you a idea how it looks.
  12. Looks real nice. Wants me to make a ElCamino too. Paintjob is wonderful, and the BMF looks really good. would you mind if I gave you two comments I noticed? -It looks to me that you have used a rather thick masking tape for the flames, use a thinner one or even BMF, so you get hardly height-difference at the paintline. -apply BMF on the car-tags ( like on the left fender ) before you give the car a paintjob. In this way, you can use a q-tip and uncover the letters when you're done. This way, the inside of the letters are filled with the colour too. and looks even better.
  13. Nice progress so far, Is it the picture or did you had some problems with brushing on the left-rear panel?
  14. Thanks for the effort guys, but that is entirely a different car. This is a Renault 5 Turbo, it has the engine in the back and is rear-wheel driven. The car was introduced in 1981 and stopped in 1984. The car I want is the Renault 5 GTTurbo, this is the second series Renault 5, called the Superfive.Introduced in 1986 and ran until 1991. The car is frontwheel driven and the engine in the front. So the kit will be unfortunately no help at all. In these two pictures you will see the differences. The Gen1 Renault 5 ( Turbo ) The Gen2 Renault 5 (GTTurbo) When you compare, you will notice the differences.
  15. This is err... Different Never seen an old MG as a Gasser. Nice idea, like the weathering.
  16. Thanks again, A 500 dollar investment is not an option here tough. I need to find cheaper ways. Why the rubber? aren't there other mastermold making stuff? I heard of something called plasticine or something.
  17. Bob, it isn't that hard. lets take for example one of the pictures you already have on LIARS. click with the right mousekey on the picture and choose 'properties' click on it, and then look at: address(url). Copy the whole line but stop just after the .jpg part. so you get this: http://images32.fotki.com/v1065/photos/5/5...V2007063-vi.jpg Paste this in your post and put the following in front of the link Note: do not use spaces anywhere! unless they were already in the link.
  18. Thanks Chris, I knew it isn't Iron, but didn't know the exact name, I do know it is probably not whitemetal. I am not planning on doing a lot with Resin, but who knows if I can get this project to a good result. If I get a realistic GTTurbo, I do plan to make several, so I can make a couple different variations. I'm not really looking forward tough to buy a 100+ dollar pump, which I might never use again. But trial and error seems to be unavoidable. It's going to be very tricky. And I am thinking of making a 2 part mold for the body. I think it is doable.
  19. This is a massive work-in-progress. Good luck!
  20. PDF's should be able to come in a smaller size. I would prefer PDF probably, so I can print them out and read them in a relaxing-chair. I don't know what it is, but reading at a screen isn't that interesting. What would you estimate how much a online subscription would cost? But I assume the magazine isn't available in stores in Europe?
  21. The car is already parted out. But to begin modifying, I need to have a Resin copy, I already gave it a try in sanding the iron, but is undo-able. I never had ay experience with molding and casting, so I need all the help there is to get. I was thinking the same with the fenders and such. The wheels shouldn't be that hard. They're simple in shape.
  22. Headliner has been painted bij hand after the paintjob. But next project gets a cloth headliner. The other interior parts were spraypainted prior to be installed. Hope this helps.
  23. Do not forget that the US-Dollar is the cause in this matter! And buying those kits for those prices is still not thát bad. In Europe the Nismo cost about 50-60 dollars. You guys in the states are very lucky with the prices. Especially the foreign kits. For 10 buck you have a kit. The cheapest in Europe are from Revell AG and costs at least 25 dollars for the most simple. Do you blame me stocking and shiiping more than 90 kits while being in the states?
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