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Everything posted by 70 Sting
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@Richard Bartrop Nothing specific with the X and XF, I just have a few more of those on hand and was wondering how they'd mix for chassis and other parts you don't see as much. I have a plan to make the engine compartment louvers removable and open up the rear grill to make it look more realistic. I'm going to try adding engine wires for the first time and maybe add a couple different colours of paint. As robertw said above, it's a nice kit and worth the effort. If it was entirely hidden, perhaps less so.
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Interesting, I was thinking the same thing. Tamiya X-10 is a darker silver. I've had one bad experience in the past with Krylon clear spray over another brand of spray paint that had been dry for days. The X-25 came out fairly glossy on the spoon so I might not spray clear at all (certainly not TS-13 ). I recall reading somewhere, perhaps on this forum, the debate over gloss coating and whether it looks more realistic, overdone or best suited for certain cars. I guess in the end, it comes down to a matter of personal taste. I would like to try for a super glossy finish at some point... almost seems like the holy grail of finishes.
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Out there on the prairies you probably can't even see your neighbours. ?
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Mission Impossible - American Graffiti cop car from a wreck
70 Sting replied to alan barton's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Incredible amount of work. ? Can't wait to see the final product. -
@Bainford Good to know. I'll keep it as a backup if/when the need arises. I have an hour drive to get to any hobby shop in my area. @robertw I've tried panel scribing once, the results were sketchy as I found it difficult to stay within the lines. I was using the Tamiya Panel Scriber 2 but didn't like the angle you had to work at. I made a DIY scriber that I plan to try this time as well as the back of the Xacto blade. I was not aware that Japanese kits were less detailed with regards to engines. I have a plan to make the engine a little more detailed and the rear window louvers removable so I can see the engine when it's complete. I used a Tamiya TS spray on my previous model, I have to say, it goes on a heck of lot better than rattle cans from the hardware store. I'm in the process of switching from Tesors enamel to Tamiya Acrylic, though there aren't nearly as many colours (at least in gloss paint) as their TS lineup. The LP line looks very interesting but a little more toxic in use. Maybe the best compromise is TS or LP for the body and acrylic for the rest.
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@rob1957 Thanks, Rob. I see you're a fellow Canuck I ordered the embossing powder from Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/Ranger-EPJ-66873-Embossing-Powder-Steel/dp/B07NTRRNDY/ref=sr_1_196?dchild=1&keywords=embossing+powder&qid=1617456603&sr=8-196 The interior was airbrushed with decanted Testors Gloss Light Blue. It was supposed to be more glossy but I did not apply enough paint as I'm still a rookie when it comes to airbrushing. I thinned it with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner at a 1:1 ratio. I did not use primer. Here is the paint when I sprayed it from the can:
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@Venom Hmm, I do have Vallejo Acrylic black primer (flat) in a spray can. Would a gloss black be better?
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1. Good idea regarding grey primer. I've been practicing decanting and airbrushing the primer and it goes on fairly thin, so there's less chance of filling in panel lines etc. with multiple applications of paint for candy coating. 2. I have a couple extra Gloss and Flat bottles on hand, was just wondering if I could mix them for spraying chassis and undercoating on cars. I chose the Nato black for a little contrast against the semi gloss black. Might still use flat and/or gloss. Thanks @Snake45
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Choosing the right tools and supplies made a huge difference. Not to mention the numerous hours spent watching YouTube tutorials and reading the forums. One of the best purchases I made was a magnifying desk lamp, it made things much easier.
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Yeah, I might be tempted to try another one. There are some pretty sweet kits out there. This one was purchased from Michaels in late 2019.
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Planning to build the Miura next, will also be attempting to airbrush a car body for the first time, should be fun. I'm going with candy green and silver side panels. Interior will be 2 tone black with silver accents and maybe embossing powder for the carpet, though I don't think it will show. I have a few questions before I start: Can I spray white primer over red plastic? I thought I read somewhere that red was hard to cover. Can you mix Tamiya Gloss Black with Tamiya Flat Black to make semi-gloss? (More out of general interest) If there's no chance that parts of an engine, trunk or interior will never be seen, do you complete them to best of your ability, casually cover them or don't bother at all? Thanks!
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Very cool!
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Ok, so here are the first 4 kits I mentioned prior to building the '58 Corvette Roadster. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/163234-revell-58-corvette-roadster/ #1. Chevy Camaro: I don't recall the year or manufacturer of the kit. Nice lumpy paint job done on the floor in the garage with some random colour during the winter. There were a number of fit issues and I was too scared to apply all the decals. #2. Hemi Cuda: Some improvement. Paint is a bit better and fewer fit issues. I did manage to botch the glass. #3. '70 Corvette: I tried a bunch of new techniques like panel liner, Bare Metal Foil and clear coating <insert barfing sound here>. Still some issues with fit and trouble with the glass. The paint had plenty of orange peel so I thought I could sand it down. Well that didn't turn out so great so I figured I could spray clear coat to cover it up <insert laughing sound here>. The stuff I used (Krylon) turned it into a topographical map so I sanded it down (to the plastic in some spots) and called it a day. #4. Ford GT40: Switched to proper model spray paint (Testors gloss light blue) and sprayed the car indoors in a homemade spray booth and it went on much better. I tried panel scribing for the first time, made a number of slips and tried to fill them in as best I could. It looks so easy on YouTube :^( Still some issues with fit and struggled with all the decals on the hood and roof... poking through in a couple places. The black "scoop" on the hood isn't supposed to be there. The biggest mistake was the front windshield. You can still see the outline of my thumb print on the left side after hours of sanding and polishing. By the time I was done, the edges were so thin you could cut paper them. So that's my return to the hobby. Enjoying it more than ever and looking forward to the next one Thanks for letting me waste your time.
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I'll check this one out as well.
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Not sure if this is the correct place to post this, but I came across the https://modelcar.show podcast the other day. Makes for interesting listening on car drives.
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Daisy Duke's '71 Plymouth Satellite
70 Sting replied to Andrew D the Jolly Roger's topic in Model Cars
So cool seeing all the wiring! Where did you source it? -
Beautiful colour and paint job. Engine looks very real.
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@Zippi I searched the net for ‘flocking’ powder but what came up was ‘embossing’ powder. I assume they are the same or very similar. It’s not so much a powder nor is it fibrous, it’s kinda like very, tiny flakes. The product I bought was Ranger Embossing Powder-Steel from Amazon. Supplies: embossing powder, white glue (I used Elmer’s), 1/4” paint brush and a sheet of white paper. Optional Supplies: tea infuser to drop/shake/apply the powder, pencil to trace the outline of the seats on the floor as there is no need to apply the glue there. 1. Apply the glue to a section at a time (floor pan, transmission hump etc.). You don’t want big, white globs, but not too thin either. Try to apply the glue fairly even, but it doesn’t matter that much. 2. Sprinkle the powder over the glue until it’s fully covered using the tea infuser, your fingers or from the jar itself. 3. Turn the model upside down and tap the bottom to shake off the excess powder onto the sheet of paper - you can reuse this. 4. Repeat for the remaining sections. Any raised areas can be pushed down lightly with your fingers. What I learned from this? Put extra glue on the seam where the floor pan meets the firewall - I ended up with a visible seam, plus it would probably look nicer if it was slightly rounded. A little more glue is probably better than not enough to avoid bald spots.
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Really appreciate that. Trust me, the photos flatter the model. It looks way more toyish in person. The photos were shot in raw format and imported into ON1Photo Raw (reasonably priced software). From there I toned down the highlights, added a little sharpening and exported in jpeg format.
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I took art all the way through High School… guess that was good for something. ;^) I can post the first 4 when I get the chance to photograph them. Also found the only surviving model from my teens. It’s a Countach molded in red that came with a battery powered motor.
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@Snake45 Like this? https://tinyurl.com/azssxd9j @espo Is there a difference between, chrome, ultra bright chrome and improved chrome? The stuff I have (soon to be had) is matt aluminum.
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Thanks for all the positive comments. :^) Paints used were: Tamiya TS-54 Light Metallic Blue, Tamiya TS-45 Pearl White, Testors Gloss Light Blue Steamboat: I tried using Krylon clear spray 2-models ago but something went horribly wrong. 90% of the car turned into a topographical map. I spent hours sanding it back down (to the plastic in some spots) and added it to the lessons learned list. The colour paint was also from a can and had been dry for days but somehow the two didn't play well together. I do want to try a super-glossy look on a car at some point, maybe with products from the same manufacturer. TransAmMike: The body and chassis were painted with spray cans, interior with an airbrush, small parts by hand. There were 2 places in the cabin that required the same colour as the body, those I hand painted with decanted spray paint (didn't go on all that well). The camera was a Canon 7D with 50 and 100mm lenses. Car was photographed in my backyard under heavy clouds just before it rained. Kept the camera at a height that would mimic where a 'scale person' might be viewing the car. espo: I have Bare Metal Foil on hand but it just wouldn't stick - even on bare sprue and after cleaning with isopropyl. I'm thinking the stuff was probably old? If I was more adventurous I could have tried masking and either hand painting or airbrushing the 4 chrome accents on the front and rear hood/trunk. SickBoy: I tried Bondene (as per a YouTuber) but it let go after a short drop onto the cutting mat. Probably didn't use enough - for good reason. I tried it for the first time on build before this one - a Ford GT40. There I was, holding the windshield in place and dropping Bondene along the edges. It looked like it was working great until I let go and realized the capillary action ran the glue right under my thumb and left a fat, juicy print on the glass. Sanding, sanding, sanding, compound and polish and it was still foggy. Coated the glass with baby oil and left it. I have not heard of Canopy glue or GatorsGrip, but will look into it. Also been using Testors Clear Parts glue, however, glass is in my kitchen now. :^(
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Beautiful job. Enjoyed the video, too.
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Hey All, It's been 30+ plus years since I've built a model. I can't believe how much the hobby has changed or more accurately, how little I knew/know. Back then it was the model and a tube of Testors glue. Probably like many others, covid got me back into it as my wife thought it would be a good pastime for my son and I. Five models in, I've made many, many mistakes and learned so much from reading this forum and watching YouTube. Each time I tried a new product or tool and practiced new techniques. The 58 Corvette is my best effort to date. For this one I tried using embossing powder for the carpet, modified the rear end to accommodate wider tires (I cannot take credit for this, I saw it done by a YouTuber) and tried airbrushing for the first time. After spraying countless spoons I painted the dash, seats and doors - they were supposed to be glossy but I think I was too much of a scaredy cat to lay it on heavy and wasn't close enough with the airbrush. I'm trying to work up the nerve to airbrush the body on my next model. I couldn't install the wipers because of fitting issues with the windshield-cabin-chassis. The dual exhaust pipes were also not installed and kudos to those who can install the lower rad hose. What did I learn from this one? Hand painting decanted Tamiya metallic spay paint doesn't go on nearly as well as from the can. AK Metallizer paint doesn't cover well over a non black or white base. Prime all parts after sanding (mufflers). Don't rush any steps and make sure fingers are clean to avoid prints on paint. Clear parts continue to be the bane of my existence. A special thanks to all those who generously share their time and knowledge.
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Hey there, I can't believe how much the hobby has changed, or perhaps more accurately, how much information is readily available now! I've built a couple models during this covid business - trying one or two new techniques each time. Still making plenty of mistakes but getting better as I go. Looking forward to spending some leisure time here. Thanks for having me.