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Everything posted by 70 Sting
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@bbowser @Venom @grodudulle77 @1959scudetto @landman Thank you very much, gentlemen.? I can't express enough how much the photography flatters the finish and hides the paint and glue gaffs. Here's a crude photo of the set: Camera: Canon 7D with a Sigma 50mm lens. I shoot around f/11 to f/13 @ 100 ISO Lighting: 18" soft box with a Canon 580 EX flash and Pocket Wizard trigger (there are alternate cheaper methods to trigger the flash) The same effect can probably be achieved with an iPhone and desk lamp suspended over a large sheet or two of wrapping tissue paper. The key is to make the light source big, soft and close to the car.
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As Bob Ross would say, "Happy accidents."
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Good Evening, Aoshima's Aventador was meant to be my magnus opus build as my intention was to go all in. Well, needless to say some lessons were learned and familiar mistakes made along the way, so I'd say I'm 75% pleased with the final outcome. The body was primed with Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black, painted with Tamiya LP-21 Italian Red, then X-19 Smoke and cleared with X-22. The interior is X-18 Semi Gloss Black with XF-7 Flat Red + X-35 Semi Gloss Clear accents. Black embossing powder was used for the carpet. Wheels were chrome-stripped with LA's Totally Awesome, primed with Tamiya Fine Surfacer Grey, base coated with Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black and finished with X-10 Gun Metal. What I learned from this build: 1. Why so much paint? On a test spoon the red came out nice and dark, on the kit it was difficult to cover the black evenly so I kept applying more red. The car ended up looking more like a Ferrari so I thought I would try deepening the colour with X-19 Smoke. Again, not so easy to apply evenly, however, I decided to settle for the subtle tone differences on the car. 2. The doors ended up matching the body reasonably well, but not the engine cover. I dropped the part in LA's Totally Awesome and the acrylic paint slipped off no problem. The underlying LP red was slightly affected so I sanded it down and reapplied the red. Should have known better that it needed to be primed again first. Sanded it down again, reapplied the black primer and red once more. There were some strange, tiny bumps almost like dust or bubbles that were trapped under the paint. Stripped it down again, re-primed and painted it - this time putting the part in a dehydrator to make sure it was super dry. The result... the same bumps in the same locations. In fact, some of these bumps are all over the car body. I just accepted it and moved on. The photos with overhead lighting greatly hide the finish. 3. Getting paint into areas like the side vents was challenging. The same thing often happens when painting interior tubs. It's almost like there's a vortex and the paint either doesn't lay down with enough volume or dries before it lands. Any advice here would be appreciated. 4. First time using Photo Etch parts (ping and a prayer). These are tough little suckers to work with! I lightly sanded the back of the parts and used CA glue to hold them in place - with mixed results. The parts were meant to be glued to glass and I found that the glue was visible in some places after it dried. Any advice is welcomed here, too. 5. A couple parts in the kit were warped. Last time I tried to straighten a part (Lamborghini Miura Louvers) I melted it using a candle ?. This time I used hot tap water and it worked well. 6. The engine cover is meant to be opened, and did perfectly during test fitting, however, sliding the two horseshoe hooks into place at the end was creaky and tight process - popping the glass pieces off their supports (probably incorrect terminology here). Any advice on applying glass parts over painted black areas without the glue showing through is appreciated here. 7. The door hinges required a little patience as did the carbon fibre decal that goes over the engine cover, which was flooded with setting solution. 8. Bonehead moves: I managed to slop a little glue on the widows (my goto move) and body; left a number of fingerprints all over - gotta let that X-22 dry extra, extra long; while polishing and waxing the body I caught the cloth on the PE wiper and bent it. Overall, the parts are nicely detailed, fit very well (minus the two bent parts) and probably the most advanced kit I've built to date. Thanks for letting me waste your time.
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Very Cool ?
- 21 replies
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- lamborghini
- miura
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(and 2 more)
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@Rich Chernosky Wow, you went the extra mile on that one. You did a nice job on the interior paint… especially that silver line under the dash. Those colour shift paints are kinda cool. ?
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You went the extra mile on this one. ??
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@Rich Chernosky Thanks Rich. I received a Tamiya Mercedes-Benz 300SL from Santa this year. Looking forward to this one too. ?
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BF Goodrich Tires for 1970 Corvette
70 Sting replied to 70 Sting's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
@Painted Black That would be a good ‘plan B’. I could flip the tires around and use decals. What I’d really like are fatter tires… something to mimic 245s. Luka Cee recently posted a video on making tires wider. Might be something to try. -
BF Goodrich Tires for 1970 Corvette
70 Sting replied to 70 Sting's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
@Plowboy Thanks, I'll check them out. ? -
Good evening, I hope this is the correct place to post this. I'm planning to build AMT's 1970 Corvette but would prefer to use BF Goodrich tires over the Goodyear's provided with the kit. Does anyone know of an alternative kit or aftermarket seller where I can purchase a set? Many Thanks!
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@Nacho Z They have a better selection in their TS rattle can line, however I haven’t hit on a really good recipe for decanting/thinning/spraying it. Have you? Should probably just use it straight from the can. ? @JollySipper Photography hides some of the little flaws. I should probably add to What I Learned from this Build: If a seam that has been glued/melted with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement let’s go, re-scribing the panel line doesn’t go well as the scribing tool tends to skip along the seam. This happened after the brake fluid bath and the results can be seen along the hatch and right, rear corner panel above the wheel.
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@Phirewriter The red is a little bright but looks nice through the windows. I saw the actual car sitting in someone’s driveway while walking the dog and thought it looked pretty cool. Did a Web search and found that Tamiya made a kit. ? Blue would look nice as well. Enjoy the build.
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Good Evening, This was my first Tamiya kit... I now know why people rave about the quality of their kits. Pretty sure you could toss the kit into a bag and the parts would fall together. There was no engine and some tiny parts that could probably have been moulded as one but overall a pleasure to build. Great window masks were included - a first for me. The body was primed with decanted Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black and painted with decanted Tamiya TS-45 Pearl White. The TS-45 took several coats but never really covered that well so I decided to apply 2 coats of Tamiya LP-43 Pearl White and sealed it with decanted Tamiya TS-65 Pearl Clear. I did not use primer on the interior. The colours are Tamiya X-18 Semi Gloss Black and XF-7 Flat Red. I used Ranger gun metal embossing powder for the carpeting. Of course it wouldn't be a build if I didn't make a couple mistakes along the way. What I learned from this build: 1. I turned a tiny dust speck into a bigger boo-boo and had to strip the paint. Oven cleaner worked okay but brake fluid seemed to work better. Thanks for the tips I read here on the forum. ? 2. This was my first time using Tamiya's LP lacquer paint. It sprayed nicely thinned 1:1 with Mr. Levelling Thinner and I would choose their LP over acrylic for car bodies every time. 3. Not sure about colour similarity between their TS and LP line. Tamiya's Lacquer Compatibility Chart says TS-45 and LP-43 are the same but the LP-43 looked warmer to me. 4. I used a heavier application of white glue with the embossing powder which worked well. 5. The decals seemed a little thicker and less sticky. Had to use multiple applications of decal solution to make them stick and conform. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! ?
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Well worth the 365 days!
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@Bills72sj That’s very kind of you. ? Agreed, the box art does nothing to sell the kit. I only became aware of it through a prolific YouTube builder. With regards to the front wheels, I’m wondering if the trademark front wheel humps of the C3 Corvette make them look smaller?
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Totally worth the wait and effort (manicure)?.
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Wow! She’s a beauty. Awesome interior and great outside finish. ?
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Excellent techniques!
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Huge C3 fan. Your ‘69 looks great!
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Me likes! I've thought about purchasing this kit a few times but haven't pulled the trigger on it yet. Seeing your build is making me rethink that decision.
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@magicmustang Hey that's cool ?. Please keep me posted, I'd love to know how you find the build and see the final result. @Ace-Garageguy I've heard good things about something called Milliput but have not looked into it.
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Hey @Claude Thibodeau I'm a recent returnee to the hobby where so much is new to me now, that I can't speak comparatively about its use and quality vs other brands. What I can say about Tamiya Putty is that it seems to shrink a bit when it dries, however it hasn't been an issue after a second application. I treat it like using drywall mud/compound: apply just enough to fill the gap plus a little extra to compensate for shrinkage - but not too much to avoid a lot of extra sanding. I find that putting the part in a dehydrator really helps as well. For bigger gaps I would use Tamiya 'Epoxy' Putty and finish it with the regular putty. As for long term shrinkage, I built this Ford GT40 several months ago where I had to fill in the entire rear seam like on the Stingaree and there are no signs of cracks or shrinking.
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Thanks for the comments, fellas. The box art is pretty weak. The frame was kinda finicky and difficult to keep aligned. Not sure I'd build one again, but it was certainly a good learning experience. I'm going to build my first Tamiya kit next. I hear they practically build themselves. ?