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Everything posted by MrMiles
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Tamiya AS-19 intermediate blue us navy. It's over black primer
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The body on this one is going to be white. I was originally going to do a black interior but I wanted something different
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Going slow and steady on this one. I'm not finished with the engine compartment yet but done for the night so here are some pictures This is my first model after a year + long break Thanks for looking and feedback is welcome. I'm not too happy with the interior color but I'm going to do a hemi cuda next and got better colors. Going to do a navy color or dark green. I haven't decided yet
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Scammer alert: texts used to drain bank accounts
MrMiles replied to bobthehobbyguy's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
The easiest way to avoid scams is don't click links. If you are unsure if a link is good, just open the browser and go directly to the site and login as you normally would. If there is an issue it should show you. Or just call the phone number on the back of the card -
this is the one i have. i havent seen it recently on ebay https://ipmsusa.org/reviews2/autos/kits/revell_25_challenger-1970/revell_25_challenger-1970.htm there is a different one, but its 1/24 scale
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i read the driver was ok, has injuries, but is ok. with that said... Let's guess which emoji the driver was typing the exact moment they hit the ramp. ?
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i am working on a revell 1/25 scale dodge challenger RT. i just finished painting the engine compartment the body color for the challenger. i put the piece on top of the desk i was going to go in the other room while it dried, but i need my laptop cord. i unplugged the cord, and i did not realize that it was tangled with my external monitor, so when i pulled it, the whole monitor fell and landed on the piece i just painted, throwing it onto the carpet. i picked up the piece and it was stuck with random carpet fibers and other gunk. i tried to quickly pull off what i could. thankfully i was able to get most of it off and was able to sand out the rest and respray after it dried. however, when the monitor fell it also landed on the exhaust and broke that in half. i couldnt get it perfect, but it will have to do. its the second piece that broke on me on this kit. i cant seem to find another one of these kits in 1/25 scale to replace the broken pieces. it seems to be a pretty rare kit
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AMT 1966 Ford Mustang GT Fastback 2+2 Kit
MrMiles replied to Jim B's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
thats exactly what it looks like. i was having hard time describing it -
Where to buy mr color spray paint safety
MrMiles replied to MrMiles's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
ty. i had seen them online, but wasnt sure if they were good. thank you again. -
Where to buy mr color spray paint safety
MrMiles replied to MrMiles's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
they dont seem to have the spray that I can find. the only spray that i found was the naval line spray. ty though -
AMT 1966 Ford Mustang GT Fastback 2+2 Kit
MrMiles replied to Jim B's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
SOrry for my delay in posting this. I was out most of the day yesterday. This is the 350r rear window. It's vented at the top. like it goes down in the middle to let fresh air in Mine is pretty scratched but you can see it's not a typical rear window -
AMT 1966 Ford Mustang GT Fastback 2+2 Kit
MrMiles replied to Jim B's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I read that they would be rented and come back with different engines -
AMT 1966 Ford Mustang GT Fastback 2+2 Kit
MrMiles replied to Jim B's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I have the r kit and the h kit. The rear window is different. The r doesn't sit flush. It's like it's vented. I can take pictures tomorrow if the difference -
which brand of paint did you use? it looks amazing
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Rattle can lacquer finish questions
MrMiles replied to atomicholiday's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
you shouldnt get orange peal with tamiya paint. how far away are you holding the can? the others, i have had it happen, but never tamiya -
This is as clean as I'm going to get it. I think I have about 5 hours or so worth of fidling with the front and rear to try to get it perfect. I just need to sand the whole body to remove the rest of the mold lines and do a scruff on the body with the 3m ultra fine hand pad to give it a even scuff everywhere
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i must be losing my mind. I looked at my model cabinet and I had an already completed 1967 mustang fastback in my display cabinet. I looked back at my topics and i had posted the same question because i had seen someone had said it fit nicely and i had a terrible time. wow. im either so tired or just losing it
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ok thanks, i was hoping the regular fastback would have had better front and rear pieces.
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While digging through my stash I found I had a 1967 gt350 from amt. After some serious finagling of the front and rear pieces I was finally able to get them on and not look terrible However, I realized as I was working on this I would much rather build the regular non Shelby mustang fastback instead. Does the regular amt 67 mustang fastback kit have the same terrible fitting front and rear pieces like the gy350 Shelby has?
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Scale model building good for the brain
MrMiles replied to atomicholiday's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
i tried to get my 2 nephews to build a model when they were in their mid-teen age years. neither had the patience to put together the pieces for a single step, let alone the whole build. both of them have no attention span at all, even today, now that they are older -
i have tried many different glues after model master black bottle was discontinued. i found that faller glue is very similar and i have not had any issues with it. i also like tamiya thin plastic cement, but that will destroy the paint if you glue a painted piece. the faller glue is easier to put just a drop and will work fine on painted pieces https://www.amazon.com/Faller-170492-Expert-Plastic-Cement/dp/B0000WROZ2/ref=asc_df_B0000WROZ2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309833764739&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11462551230405923766&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003932&hvtargid=pla-568103033029&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62057315659&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309833764739&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11462551230405923766&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003932&hvtargid=pla-568103033029 just to add. i also tried the revell glue and found that it doesnt hold the pieces as nicely as model master did or faller. for windows or headlights i will use testors window glue. https://www.amazon.com/Testors-3515CT-Clear-Parts-Cement-1oz/dp/B0006N6ZHS/ref=asc_df_B0006N6ZHS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167142066433&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13715668957360569766&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003932&hvtargid=pla-305953979888&psc=1
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Late 70s/ early 80s Camaro
MrMiles replied to MrMiles's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Awesome. Ty for the links. I will keep an eye on that box to find it -
Late 70s/ early 80s Camaro
MrMiles replied to MrMiles's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Is this the one https://www.ebay.com/itm/265904133670?hash=item3de91f1626:g:O3wAAOSwBA9hB2Jc&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwGP1qrSsB38525UiE9ML41hWRFfvsQRp9AbtPjl64%2Fa6doePSMoWw8VJQxMghWB6%2FunU7ApzesXEDup9x78m7Gh80nG6mHZLRgbB3uq%2FMemLQtnD1hDherkECY%2Fkx%2FSaVqoL0Kjx%2BypKiwQ6WVIaDLg43OwmIQAi2RvX1tnvPyu4Sac5OCC%2FT3h9QKIj0jY7DTrPXuCc5vkZea0o0wxC6esV%2BC4yDsUzxhVNh2VLoWifqTsKYjR%2FtoHhOKt9gWeWOQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR86e8uiIYg