Casey

Call Golden Bell Press at 877.463.3127 toll-free, or 303.296.1600 and ask if your copy has been mailed. Done. AFAIK, they print it, they ship it, and they can answer your question better than anyone else.

Just FYI, USPS.com lists many Priority Mail box sizes, which are different (and much cheaper when it comes time to mail them) than the Priority Mail Flat Rate boxes they stock at local Post Offices.

The Brookfield Collector's Guild Neon sedan promos are the only choice for a '95-'99 model. They are nicely done, though they don't have opening hoods and the underside is one simplified piece. They were made in multiple colors (and in coupe form, too), and can usually be found on eBay and over at http://forums.neons.org/ in the Swap section for about $20-$35 each. The 1/24 Revell race car trailer is the closest to what's pictured, but you'll need to do some modifying.

Better yet, go to USPS.com and order Priority Mail boxes. They will ship them directly to your mailbox-- FREE. Nine time out of ten Priority Mail is cheaper than Parcel Select for most packages I ship, so combined with free shipping boxes, it's an easy decision. Plus, printing labels online means the mail carrier picks them up and there's no need to stop at the Post Office. Did I mention purchasing shipping labels/postage online is cheaper than purchasing it at the Post Office?

Correct. The distributor shield is the giveaway that it's from a Corvette.

By "they" you mean Lorna and Lisa, right?

There are a ton of pre- and in-progress resto pictures available online, and lots of pic of the undersides when the car is on a rotisserie.

The 1/25 kit is die-cast based, while the 1/24 kit is the original Monogram kit. They are two disticntly different kits, and totally unrelated. See here for the 1/25 scale kit review: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17859&hl=challenger#entry193815

It is, and yes, it is. It's also a good look at the rear window molding pieces, too.

I don't care for the way the inner fenders are molded to the floorpan, either, as it reminds me of the die-cast style 1/25 '70 T/A-R/T and '68 Mustang kits. Maybe that's the design style in which Revell is headed, though. I can see how molding them the way they did make positive location at final assembly time much easier, and they did hide the locating pins and holes up underneath the fender tops, so you really can't see them once everything's assembled. I think it's an improvement over the grooved framerails and a slot under the inner fenders locating method, too, so I would say it's a small improvement. As for the rear window, the Revell kit's looks more accurate to me. The long sections between the corners is straighter compared to the same areas on the AMT promo's body, and the corner radii are smaller on the Revell body, too. I only have two large clear shots of 1:1 rear windows, but I give the nod to the Revell kit's rear window. Looking at the drip rail area on the 1:1, it doesn't appear to stand away from the roof panel very much, so maybe a subtle drip rail was the best compromise:

That's the best answer I've seen posted in a long time...and beautiful work, too, David.

Sounds like this one didn't make the cut, much like the "Airplane" Mustang: http://www.3000toys.com/catalog/item_detail.aspx?itemfind=AMT839#.Uq_Uw7s6QxA

Remember that Mopar cars and vans were unibody vehicles, so frame rails, floorpans, firewalls, cowls, radiator supports-- all of that was welded together and passed through the dip tank and paint booths as one assembly. They all got at least some body colored overspray underneath, though how much or how far underneath the color coat extended depended upon who was doing the spraying. There is no "six inches inboard of the rocker panels" type of uniform application for the body color overspray, so it will vary form vehicle to vehicle. It also depended upon how the vehicle was mounted as it went through the paint booth. Vans hung much lower and had deeper rockers, so much less overspray made it onto the underside then compared to a '70 Dart for instance. For a resto, it's again all over the place. Some coat the underside fully with body color, some try to replicate only what the factory did on their particular vehicle, and others do things in between. There is no hard and fast rule, and no universal standard. Long story short, I'd recommend you use a grey or rust colored primer, then apply the body color however you like, with as much or as little overspray as you feel looks best. Black primer was used on some Dodge/Plymouth B-series vans built at the Windsor plant, but I've seen mostly grey on cars of the musclecar era.

Check out the Big Boyz section, Jody, as the 1/8 Barracuda was to be made (is still going to be made?) out of fiberglass, and I have seen a few other in that section, too. Might've been the 1/8 '41 Willys I'm thinking of, though.

Not really, unless you want to use one of the MPC small block Mopars, or the AMT version ('41 Plymouth/Petty Sportsman), though I would recommend neither. I always felt the AMT '71 340 Duster's engine was slightly undersized, and the transmission is definitely too small and a bit on the funky side, which is why I'm anxiously awaiting a 1/25 AAR from Revell. The need for an accurate 1/25 scale LA-series Mopar small block is immense. Maybe a Ross Gibson engine?

Matte would be my choice. Flat have to little gloss, and semi-gloss too much. No idea if this '70 340 is original or a clone, but nobody's gonna check the VIN in 1/25 scale: IIRC, this is a /6 powered car, but is a verified FM3 car:

Very cool to see these built stock (or as close as you can get with the chopped Coupe). The Phaeton looks a lot better than what's on the Revell box, that's for sure. Nice work.

If they had minibikes at the poles...

Norm and David, Is it possible to extract or separate an individual part from, say, the Porsche above, or is the program written to print everything as one object? Can you for instance isolate a 2"x2"x2" corner of the one-piece Porsche, allowing you to print only one wheel, tire, brake, and anything else which fits within that cube?

Spotted this 1/16 Ertl big farm Pete 367 Cement Mixer at Fleet Farm the other day, so maybe it holds some interest for someone. Not sure how accurate the scale is, though, as I didn't see the scale listed on the box anywhere, only on the shelf price tag: Flotation(?) front tire tread detail:

If you like vintage customs, you should already have Rik Hoving's Custom Car Chronicle website bookmarked!: http://www.customcarchronicle.com/

Here's how Steve Boutte made some very similar laminated knobs: http://www.customcarchronicle.com/custom-cars/dash-knobs-stev/

I would first search online for which cars share the same wheelbase as the '62, then look at kits of other full size cars, similar to the '62.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=82077&page=6#entry1067059

Thank you two.