Raoul Ross

https://www.washingtonpost.com/obituaries/2023/04/10/mad-cartoonist-al-jaffee-dead/

A nice Obit here: https://www.washingtonpost.com/obituaries/2023/04/11/craig-breedlove-driver-dead/

Nice job, Slingshots will always be my favorite digger!

When I was a wee lad and Truax Field (Madison,WI) was an active Air Force base(early '60s), I remember jumping out of my skin when a 102 would fly over and create a sonic boom. Public uproar made short work of that but I always thought they were a cool lookin fighter. Years later I joined the ANG at Truax and was given the assignment of "Radio Operator Maintenence And Driver (ROMAD). This was just at the end of Vietnam. My job was to drive a Major (or above) with a jeep full of radios and be in visual contact with The Target, relaying the coordinates to the guys flying the Cessna O2-A/B as final control for air strikes. My Life Expectancy was 3 hours, the Major (or above) was <90 minutes. Sure glad I never had to go! Got to ride with them in the Skymaster a few times though, twas awesome! Anyway, I just happened to be on the Old Model Kits web site when both of these planes came up, I couldn't resist. The 102 has the added bonus of a decal sheet from the Wis ANG! Total Score! The Dart and the Lola I picked up during a recent visit to Des Moines and visited the only 2 LHSs in the area. Provimi Veal is a Wisconsin based producer of, um, veal and I got an autograph from Arie Luyendyk at Road America when he raced there in the 80s so it was kinda cool to pick it up.... and I've never owned a Mopar model of any kind and I always thought the '69 Dart was the best looking one. A lot of detailed parts in the kit.

Let the tool do the work, don't force it.... and read this (At the top of TIp, Tricks and Tutorials section)

I gotta say it, *that* is pretty dang funny!

That reminds me of this classic Calvin and Hobbes...

All the parts were immersed for the same amount of time, about 30 minutes. The last pic in my first post shows the line diagonally across the door where I only immersed the cab part way, as I'd only painted the inside of the roof. There's no difference in softness between the upper and lower part of the cab and after almost a week I can't really smell the solution, but my smeller isn't what it usta be Here's a pic of a scratch I was able to inflict using my thumbnail.

So now as I get ready to re-paint the parts I stripped I find that they are a little soft, soft enough that I can put a scratch in them with my thumbnail, granted with some effort. They are not bendy wobbly, they're still plenty stiff but they *are* softer than the other parts that were on the same sprues. However the body was/is fine. The parts that are soft now were on two different sprues and the body of course was by itself. Are some parts molded with different types of styrene?

zzzzzt

That's really weird as I had none of that. I do notice the liquid appears yellow in your bottles whereas mine is pretty much clear. Maybe a bad batch, I dunno. EDIT: Well now looking at my first pic it also appears yellow. They never got back to you at all?

Just received this reply from Debbie at Stripwell. I had asked if there was a difference between their furniture stripping product and their Model specific product and the fact that I didn't see the Model specific product listed on their website. "Hi Raoul! Thank you for being a QCS Model Safe customer! We still sell QCS under the Model Safe label and are in the process of finalizing a new sales channel for that product. QCS Vintage Finish Remover and QCS Model safe are the same product, just labeled for the specific purpose and with different directions. Thank you! Debbie Stripwell Customer Service"

And this happened with the same Stripwell QCS product as shown in the the first pic I posted?

Allis Chalmers? And a solenoid for the... solenoid? Wierd-Ness Monster!

I've probably replaced a thousand starters in my life time and all solenoids are on top of the starter. I assume this keeps the wiring from routing to the bottom of the starter and prevents it from being cought by... something! Even with Ford starters, which have the solenoid mounted on a fenderwell, the field-coil actuated plunger is on top of the starter.

I'll just say one more thing for it, you can reuse it over and over. I used a funnel with a coffee filter in it to pour it back in the jug. You can't say that about any other paint stripper! Edit: Here's the thread where I saw it first:

It is pricey. I don't see the Model specific stuff on their site but I think it's all the same. This is where I got it. https://www.stripwell.com/store/p6/32oz._Bottles.html#/

Here was the bottom of the container when I was done. The paint just fell off, literally!

I just got done sanding the body and there are no ill effects that I can tell. It sanded fine just as if it was new out of the box. The container I used was the bottom of a cheap jug that had distilled water in it. I had dropped one of them and that may have been the one I used. P.S. On the label it says Non-Caustic. Plus I used it without gloves and you can see I still have all my skin! ?

I was sold when somebody posted about this product here so I bought some to try. I wanted to remove the too thin Model Master paint and thought this would be a good time to give it a try. Poured it into a container and dropped the parts in. After 10 minutes it was already starting to crack: I didn't have a funnel to pour it back into the container so I quickly went to the store and bought a few and came back. So after 30 minutes I pushed the paint around with a small screwdriver: I took my container over to my kitchen sink to do a wash and found my container had leaked a bit. It takes *all* paint off! Running the part under running water was enough to remove it completely, no scrubbing needed! I did scrub some with a tooth brush and warm soapy water but found this afterward. There is a visible line where I had only submersed part of the cab into the QCS, as I didn't know how it would react to the putty I'd put on the bottom of the doors, even after scrubbing with warm soapy water. Not sure how this will affect the primer, maybe I'll dunk the whole thing in and re-scrub with warm soapy water again and see what happens. QCS seems to be a highly efficient surfactant, it felt really slippery to my fingers, kinda like liquid drain cleaner. (yea, should'a worn gloves) Anyway, I was highly impressed with it's efficiency.

There actually is a Time Machine (movie) Model, I thought I'd seen it before. It only costs a arm and an eye tooth! https://www.scifistation.com/shop/perlshop.cgi?ACTION=ENTER&thispage=models-rev.html&ORDER_ID=!ORDERID!

That's does look really good! ?

That's what I used but it was still too thin. The one issue I have with those is cavitation and then waiting for all the bubbles to dissipate.