Andy Oldenburg

Hi Bill and David, thanks for your friendly response! Or, in German: vielen Dank!

Hello Jim, Mario, Oliver, Larry, Dennis, Ricky, Emre, Carl, Jeff, Tom and Donato, to you also a big THANK YOU for your friendly response! Have a nice weekend! Andy

Wow, a shout-out to Samuel, Michael, Gene, Chris, David J, David E, Stuart, Brian, Alan, Bruce and Mark, Soooo much cool response! I guess I might have built a a nice model😉😄 Thanks for all that emotional support! I learned a lot on this build, made some mistakes and found new solutions. THATS what makes model building so fun! My next build will be a classic stock though, keeping the stress level low this time😂

This was my longest build so far, and next to my happiness about the finished result, I do feel a bit exhausted too. I guess I bit off just about as much as I could chew😅. This is the Revell Impala in the Foose custom edition. The kit contains basically a stock Impala, but you get some extra Foose goodies to enhance your build. I was out to put as much show car flash into my build as I was able to and came up with some ideas that were a challenge. First getting the gull wings stable and working. Next that huge tailgate and finally the sliding swivel seats. On a white base coat I sprayed an light ice blue metallic. The fading stripes over the length of the top and over the rockers were a step by step job. After laying several strips of masking tape side by side, I started by spraying the middle stripe with a thin layer of medium blue metallic. Then taking off the next tape stripes working my way to the sides. Each time spraying only a thin layer of the same blue metallic. The layers build up in the middle but the outer (or upper) stripes stay lighter. After the BMF and decal work the body got 2 layers of AK clear varnish. The wheels, disc brakes, mirrors and head lamps are from Scale Production. I cut out the middle part of the grill and inserted a crafted grill made of .5mm brass rods embedded in U-shaped brass rods at the sides. Just gluing the window posts to the roof and door piece didn´t hold good enough to keep the together. I finally decided to connect the posts with .5mm brass rods and that ended my worries. I am still very careful opening the doors, but after all the sanding and handling they haven´t failed yet so I can stay cool now. My next challenge was getting the seats to glide out and swivel. The seats are printed second market and only connected to the slides with a metal peg. The slides are made of rectangular styrene tubes gliding on a brass rod. I can pull out each seat and turn them to the side. A B-pillar for the second row windows seamed logical to me. A 1/1 car would probably need them to get the doors weather tight. A show car like this needs a heavy sound system to impress the audience. The printed speakers come from Scale Production. Instead of a simple trunk I decided to cut the tailgate in one big piece. Like in real they needed "hydraulic" pistons to keep them up in place. These I fabricated from a .5mm rod in a 1mm brass tube. The trunk and the cabin floor are flocked in a light sand. The dash is enhanced with wire rings around the gauges and a key chain. I was able to use some Foose parts for the engine. I gave the engine my favorite detailing but wanted to bring in another wild idea. I love those trumpet shaped intake pipes, but on this build I didn´t want to cut open the hood or give it a scoop. I made the air filter box out of a styrene piece an inserted the pipes on the sides. In the end it just barely fits under the closed hood. The pulley/belt system was more work than usual, since this engine has three belts for three satellites. Each is connected to the block with a 1mm brass rod to pick up the tension from the rubber belt. The engine bay received some extra detailing and now looks as crammed as a real one. I enhanced the undercarriage with brake and fuel lines and the parking brake cables. There is a WIP thread about this build, but I had upload issues with this forum about half way. You can still see the body and interior work though. I hope you like my build😊 I would be pleased if you would watch my video at: https://youtu.be/tLgMaEGZuog Thanks and best wishes! Andy

So now I have the chassis finished and so far, I have not made any major mistakes. (Well, actually ONE, which I will disclose later...) The undercarriage is sprayed in a silver metallic and I wanted to keep the bottom in a similar color code like the body. First job was to lay the fuel and brake lines. The parking brake is a very fine, vinyl coated cable usually used for fashion jewelry. Those tiny metal tubes are crimp beads, also from a crafts store specialized in fashion jewelry. Otherwise the line cables are connected to the chassis with .3mm florist wire. I loop the wire around the line and pull them through .8mm holes drilled into the bottom. After pulling them tight I just bend them flat on the top and secure them with super glue. I cut the "springs" off the suspension arms and replaced them with springs bent from 1mm aluminum wire. The silver primed axle and drive received a layer of transparent blue, before I attached the brake lines, the disc brakes and calipers. These are from Scale Production, same as the wheels. The kit contains a nice set of "Foose" custom wheels, but I will keep them for a future project. Connecting second market wheels usually ends up in some custom crafting. Sometimes I use wire pins, sometimes I have to incorporate short styrene tubes as spacers to bridge a gap. In this case the wheels just happened to fit right on to the axle, glued with epoxy. Where it makes sense I attached a few printed hex nuts to the suspension system for added detailing. The front suspension and steering did not need so much customizing. I did replace the plastic kit springs with wire springs and I was able to glue the brake calipers with super glue. My plan to give the wheels a slight steer meant cutting off the knuckles and gluing them into the correct angle (remember I have the steering wheel already set). So I checked out the correct setting at least ten times, and now guess what Andy did wrong? 🤔😲🫣😖 Jup, I messed it and glued it in the wrong direction and didn´t notice it until it was kind of too late, with the wheels attached 😅😂🤣 OK. you all know, but don´t tell my friends. With the wheels attached (the low profile tires really help a lot), this build will get a low stance. I might show a mock up with my next post. Now it´s time to start with the engine. Thanks for taking a look!

Hi Joe and Rich, you make me blush🫣🤗 Thanks for your friendly remarks!

Hi Chris, Sonny, Carl and Greg, thanks for your friendly response! 🙏 Ah well, it is a lot of work. But I rather take my time and let it take as long as necessary. I TRY(!) not to rush my builds, as I did a few years ago when I started. Afterwards I discovered all my flaws😖 You might know that feeling; working on a kit for several weeks..... AND STILL NOT FINISHED😆🤣 But patience rules!

I´m finished with the interior. Just like the body, I wanted to try something new and had to figure out how to fabricate my ideas. The easy bit was getting a "BOSE" sound system into the trunk. The speakers are 3D printed by Scale Production, the amplifier is made out of styrene sheet and tubes. The floor is flocked in a sand color. To match the body I sticked to off white and light blue for the dash, doors and seats. The dash got a bit of extra details with wire rings around the gauges, a key chain and the extra pedal for the parking brake. The steering wheel is tipped to the left because I plan to attach the wheels accordingly. The door panels have a classic design, with some enhancing with BMF. The kit seats were replaced with racing buckets. These resin printed seat are also from Scale Production. My wish to make the seats slide out and swivel took a few days of mind pounding. I needed a solution that would build flat and easily move back and forth. Through the main tunnel I set a flat brass rod, glued under the tunnel with resin. The styrene sleds under the seats slide over this rectangular rod. To adapt the "hinge" I added a second rectangular tube. The seat itself is only connected to the sled with a 1mm brass peg. In the meantime I have painted the main brass rod white. The floor is flocked in sand just like the trunk. Here is how the sleds are made... The longer tube slides over the brass rod, the shorter tube is connected to the seat via the peg. The outside ends of the tubes are sealed with styrene. I hope I could explain this good enough. I case some questions arise, feel free the ask and of course feel free to copy! Best wishes and thanks for watching!

It has been a while since I have last built a level 5 kit. This is the Revell "Foose Design" Impala. I really like the cars that Chip Foose builds and presents, but this one seems to be the stock Impala with special "Foose" parts added to the box. With so much detail already included, I had to think hard how to get my own flavor to the model. I am giving myself an extra challenge and wanted to do something I haven´t tried like this before. Call me crazy, but I am building real gull wing doors. Of course the nasty part is getting enough stability to the doors that they don´t break easy. Since this is a coupé, I added B-pillars and first tried it with styrene square bars. But the damn things would always break off at the roof or the door part. I was close to replacing the door´s A- and B-pillars with brass bars but on a last try I pinned every pillar in place with .5mm brass rods. And eureka, they held fast! I am not forcing my luck though, and will refrain from putting windows to the doors. With open "windows" I can grab the roof parts and carefully swivel the doors open. On a flat white base coat I sprayed an ice blue metallic. Then I masked the shadow stripes and worked my way from the middle to the sides, adding a very thin layer of light metallic blue step by step and peeling the next masking strip off. This way the first middle stripes build up color and get darker. Same thing with the sides, only here I worked my way from bottom to top. Clear coat is Molotov with the BMF and the decals protected under the final third layer. I created a big tailgate by cutting out the rear trunk with the complete window. The trunk will be filled with a fat sound system. Here you can see the extra B-pillar for the rear side window, a clear film used for the window. The door frames and the tailgate have received lips where possible and I tried to cover the tubes for the hinge wires as best as possible with sheet styrene. Here a view of the group of interior hinges and the sun visors. This will be a slow build. I have started with the interior tub, well, what´s left of it, and hope that another show idea will work as imagined. Thanks for watching!

Hello Oliver, David, Michelle, Carl, Donato and Chris, thank you very much for your positive remarks! I hope you all had a very merry Christmas! Best wishes, Andy

Hello Larry, Tom, Glen, david, David, Steve, Dan, Nathan, Harry and Jeff, many THANKS for your enthusiastic response! Makes me happy🤗 I did forget to mention that I chopped the roof by about 6mm, needing to extend it in the middle to fit. That was when I decided to cut off the vent triangle frames. The windshield took some time to fit in properly in the aftermath because its curve didn´t match so well. Best wishes for Christmas!

IMHO the ´59 El Camino has much more sex appeal and class than the ´64. (but i´ve already built that one..) Based on the Chevelle and dubbed with a simple 60´s design, it does look more like a utility vehicle than the ´59. I didn´t want to build the construction "gear hustler" depicted on the kit cover, but I was aware that a fancy show car was hidden in my box. The ideas came pouring and I decided to turn this build into a luxury version with a revved up engine and hot goodies. The paint is multiple layers of: flat grey, metallic dark silver, metallic red, some masking work and a transparent red for the panels. After super fine sanding, I sprayed 3 layers of AK crystal clear and the BMF is secured under the last coat. The rear wheel arch was filled with styrene and needed a few steps of putty and sanding until I was satisfied with the looks. The 20" wheels were in my scrap box, but I didn´t have the matching tires any more. So I had to carefully cut open existing tires to match for that low profile look. The wood on the bed cover and the bed floor is real veneer. The kit contains a shell cover for the bed, but I used the shell roof to fabricate the bed cover. It took three tries before I was happy with the hinging of the cover. Actually a simple solution, but tricky to get into the exact position. The "hydraulic" is a 1mm brass rod slipping into a 1.5mm brass tube. The bed walls and fenders are flocked. Cutting the bed door open meant filling the open spaces with styrene sheet and the bumper had to be adapted to let the door open down. The hinges were made of 1mm brass rod in 2mm styrene tube. I completely cut the grill out of the grill/bumper part and attached a fine metal mesh to the back. The headlight parts were again from my spares box and the lenses are from Scale Production. I goofed the Chevrolet lettering. The gel pen wasn´t dry yet when I started the last clear coat and I must have smeared it by accident. BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH happens.... I replaced the kit bucket seats with a bench and enhanced the edges with .5mm vinyl wire. Gluing it was a hassle and I am still thinking how to solve that problem next time. The radio is a print on photo paper, at least a few decals for the dash come with this kit. The floor is flocked and the cranks are 3mm stryrene rod, .5mm brass rod and glass beads. Since this is a level 3 kit, there are some wishes left unfulfilled about the detailing. The engine received a lot of wiring and high performance fuel lines (check that gauge..). The brake booster was home fabricated from styrene and wire, same as the relay, the coil and the hood latch. The filter lid is from my spare box and the belt is cut from a thin rubber mat. Being a level 3, this model comes with a single part undercarriage with very shady detailing. I cut out the drive middle and the complete read suspension and rebuilt the chassis with .5 and .8 mm styrene sheet. Like the fenders I had to adapt the undercarriage to those wide slicks. I was able to rescue the differential and incorporate it into my new rear suspension. Everything is made of styrene tubes and square rods and enhanced with printed hex nuts for details. The drive and exhaust system are also styrene tubes with the mufflers scavenged from my parts box. The brake and fuel lines put the cherry on top. When I started this build I had my doubts if my vision would work, or if I was going down the wrong road. But about half through the project I was happy about my decisions and had my yahoo moments when things worked and I moved to the next step. I hope you like my build and thanks for your attention! Check out the YouTube video for some "action"! https://youtu.be/ge7wpTjoLGs

Hi Craig, the JUDGE rules, right? ! Excellent build and deserves a front row place on the shelf.

Hi Anders, great looking stock Fairlane! Nice color combination. Yes, it was time to show it!

Hi Michelle, good work on that classic police car. Easy to imagine it pulling up to a donut drive in😅

Hi Tom, beautiful build!!! On first glance looks almost like the real thing, respect! The color and the shine match very well with this Impala. Come to BMF and decals, for quite a while now I do that work BEFORE the last clear coat. Above all, nothing can peel off any more by mistake while handling the model.

One perfect build in a beautiful clean white! Love it! Nice details on your engine with copper lines.

Very cool build Charley! The stance and the color are a bomb. Nice work on the interior too!

Jeff, Carl and Oliver, your response makes me happy that you like my build! Thanks!

Hi guys, thanks for your friendly response!?

THANK YOU for all your help! That´s what I love this community for. The slide must have been flipped when being copied. I havn´t noticed that myself. Seems like I will have my problems getting my hands on a model.... Best wishes, Andy

This kit comes as a level 2-3 and you should not expect too much engine details or parts. But the body is of exceptionally clean molding with crisp details and it fits very well with the undercarriage. I had the idea to turn the Marauder into a low cruiser with an elegant appearance. Only wild thing was to hinge the bonnet to the right fender. And yes, I like to open doors so they had to be cut out and hinged. The doors are fitted with hidden magnets with their counterparts hidden in the front seats. It´s fun to tip the doors and let them snap into place. The body is sprayed with Tamiya TS-88 titanium silver. The side panels and the interior are Tamiya TS-58 pearl light blue. After the titanium silver I masked the criss-cross with 1mm tape and sprayed a single thin layer of the light blue. The undercarriage part is one of those one piece boards with all details included. Which I don´t like so much. So I cut out a lot and grinded off the exhaust system, the drive and the entire rear suspension and rebuilt everything from styrene scratch. I replaced the front suspension with parts I salvaged from a older gluebomb. The wheels are custom from Scale Production. The grill I cut out from the front part and replaced it with aluminum grid to match the paint job. I added a lot of detailing to the engine and replaced a few parts for a better look. For more details you can check out my WIP thread on this build. Thank you for watching! You can see the video with the following link: https://youtu.be/qHrU4AAhxCA

Hi everybody, by and by I have been building the cars of my parents. I am in need of information about this car. After checking my books, my best guess would be a 57/58 Mercury, but I am not sure. The busy gentleman washing daddy´s car is me at age 3?. Who can give me a solid information? Thanks for any help and best wishes! Andy

So I finally finished this baby today and am VERY happy about the results. Turned out just about as I had planned. OK, I did get into minor problems that I hadn´t planned. But that´s model building, correcting the problems you brought yourself into. After getting the engine finished it was time to attach it to the chassis to move on with the final assembly. To enhance the engine bay I manufactured some goodies. The battery received pole clamps and the brake booster lines. The relay is basically styrene and the wiper water bag is a folded piece of sheet styrene. The wheels are from Scale Production and in this case with aluminum rims. I forgot to order disc brakes on time so I settled with washers and faked the calipers. I didn´t like the look of the grill and since this is a custom cruiser I replaced it with aluminum grid material. Cutting out and filing the grill took some time and nerves but fortunately the frame didn´t break. The headlamps are epoxy lenses from Scale Production. The battery had to move to the drivers side to keep away from the hinge. But I had seen this set up on the web so that was OK by me. Getting those cables in the right place needed some patience.... but it all went fine. It´s always exiting when I close the hood for the first time, hoping that my upgrading didn´t build too high. Bang! A perfect fit! The undercarriage received some weathering for realness. This car has street mileage. The exhaust pipes didn´t turn out exactly mirrored, but it only shows at a straight angle. And yes I know, that the front suspension is NOT Ford/Mercury, but it was all I could salvage from my crate.?? Thanks for those helpful comments on my way. Looks like I can´t fool you guys!??? Last thing left to do was covering the rockers and filling the jambs. The tub is much narrower than necessary, meaning I had to fill a wider gap than in real life. I cut the matching pieces from 1mm styrene and spray painted them in the interior blue and added a bit of flock. A bit of polishing in the end and the doors and hood connected. I will refrain from gluing these parts to the hinges. They all work fine and if necessary it´s easy to pull them off. And those magnets really get a hold of the doors. No opening by themselves or sagging. I´m happy! What´s left to do is some neat images for the Under Glass forum and a video for YouTube. Thanks for watching and your input on this build!

Hi Andy, pls note my response to Steve. I´m not that good into cars like you guys! You see a mistake like that in a second, I will probably never get there. Honestly, I have never maintained an American car, but only small Europeans back in my early days. But I have enough time to learn the differences ?? The doors are working really fine! The lips are holding them in the correct place and the magnets will keep them shut. On my other models I have done the jambs after connecting the interior tub with the body. I fill the rockers and open spaces with sheet styrene and paint them before gluing into place.