Andy Oldenburg

Great details and your trunk looks wonderful! The color fits well to that iconic body!

What a cooool build! Looks fantastic!

Hi Brock, beautiful job! I love the Starliner, a very underestimated car. Your paint job is great and the stance on those wheels looks cool!

I was inspired to build a rusty old barn find by a story in a classic car magazine. Being my first rust job, I had to dig up some old painting skills I used to use during my arts and crafts era. At the start I thought I might get done a bit faster than building a flashy glossy body finish. But I soon found out that a real rust and patina job means attention to every part of the build to make it look old. And I had a wonderful time doing so! Kept thinking about what part might need more dirt or rust or just get a broken look. I will skip all of the details about the building and painting process on this build. Those interested are invited to check out my WIP thread. A big part of the fun was deliberately breaking parts for the sake of the effect: Grinding holes into the body, melting big dents with a lighter, ripping up the benches, flattening tires with a heat gun.... I sure will do something like this again! Thank you for taking a look! If you want to see the video please check out this link: https://youtu.be/Cs66DjiWCQY

So I´m finally finished with this build. Although this is my first rust job, I am not a newcomer to special paint effects. I have been crafting and painting all of my life, so I was able to employ some techniques that I was accustomed to. Plus many techniques that I have learned here on MCMF. Applying those things to a model was a VERY fun adventure and I had a wonderful time. I feel really happy with my worn out Hornet. After installing the engine I added the radiator and connected the hoses. What really took time on this build was often weathering each part in a 2-3 step process. A rust streak alone won´t give a good enough effect, so an extra dab of grime or interior streak (or both) would usually follow. The tires look quite new on the still visible top, but since they would be covered soon, I just sanded the bottom side. The rats nest received a bit more volume. The bumpers received several layers of different paint. After sanding the edges and molding lines I started with a flat metallic, went on to rust streaks, to grime and back to rust again. I apply the paint with an old bristle brush, only applying a very small amount with a dabbing technique. Then I work the paint with Q-Tips, dabbing but mostly rolling the stick between my fingers. When the paint is almost dry, you can carefully work the surface again with a dry Q-Tip to get it rough. What I love about Moebius kits is that you can really rely on that the "big parts" engine, chassis and body will FIT. I had no problem with slipping the body over the interior and clicking it onto the chassis. No cutting or sanding necessary. The bumpers, headlamps and taillights also fit perfectly. The cables and lines in the engine bay got their final connection and the I added the latch for the hood. After taking these photos I drilled and blackened the exhaust tip. The gap on the rocker and the beside the rear bench were filled with thin styrene, painted and weathered to match the body and interior. The dashboard was inserted after the body and chassis were connected. I reworked the sun visors with wire so that I could attach them in a lowered position. And yes, each part received some weathering and dirt. Last thing to be done was "dusting" the build. A barn find may well be a rusty mess, but being untouched for decades also means that a certain amount of dust will have added up on every horizontal surface. I solved this step with a carefully sprayed thin layer of AERO color acrylic airbrush paint. I could have messed it, but I took my time and stopped at the right moment. Now I have to build an appropriate diorama for my junk pile?. I am out of this thread and will present my Hornet on the "Under Glass" forum on a platform asap. Thanks to everyone for watching and your kind remarks and input!

Thanks guys for your positive response! Been moving on and everything is getting structure, but since I´m going on an holiday for a week I thought I might send the last images of my progress. The undercarriage has received some heavy rust and weathering. On a rust colored base coat I dabbed matte anthracite and smudge with a worn out bristle brush and a rough sponge. On the side the various suspension and steering parts have also been weathered. The transmission, suspension and the steering are attached. And yes, the exhaust pipe is broken in two. Must have been too much rust... I wanted the tires flat on the drivers side. After pushing them on a wooden peg I heat treated them with a hot air gun for about 20 seconds and flattened them on the table top. One wheel is "wrong" also, with no hub cap. This is the "stance" after connecting to the chassis. The interior floor is flocked with a dirty mix of grey and black. In the end the bottom received a treatment with "dirt". Again with the old bristle brush I added a slight sprinkle of light brown for some realness. Also the brake and parking brake lines are attached and weathered. A shout out here to Espo, who proposed that I add a rats nest to my build! Great idea, which I executed to the front floor. The nest is a ripped sponge shaded in different grey and brown tones. The rats butt is the end of a Q-Tip with a wire tail. The benches were too clean so I added foot prints and rat-sh.. The windshield is a broken mess. After drilling a small hole I just scratched the cracks with a scalpel and sanded the window to make it dull. Bare metal foil is applied, weathered and rusted. I had enough time to attach the engine and had to halt my building. My fingers are itching to move on and I can´t wait to get back from the Netherlands...? Thanks for watching!

Come to say, I am still thinking about something like that... First though was a birds nest on the bench. Have to check what a rats nest looks like!

Hi everyone, thanks for your kind replies! Building something "dirty" is almost more fun than making a shiny build!

Hi David, naaaah, don´t worry about overstepping! Since this is my first rust job, I had to figure out everything by myself or apply techniques I was familiar with from former crafting hobbies. So I grinded from the out- and inside. But I really appreciate your advice! And will remember it on my next rust build.

Being my first Barn find, I had to think about how heavy the "damage" and weathering should turn out. I did want my build to show some heart braking patina, if it were an 1:1. I started with making some major dents, heating body parts with a lighter and then pressing a tool to the surface. I made a test on an old model with a hot air pistol but the result was a too big area of soft plastic. This denting came after I opened the drivers door for hinging. Next I worked several areas of the body with the grinding tip of my micro tool. Because the styrene has a reasonable thickness I grinded from the inside as well. Makes the holes look more like sheet metal. After smoothening out the grinded areas the body received a first paint coat in a rust brown. It is quite refreshing not to going into every effort to get the body as smooth as possible. Scratches and marks, whatever. But of course the more effort goes into getting the body messy. To cover the rough rust areas and the dents I stuck pieces of tissue paper with double sided tape. The ragged edges of the tissue comes very close to a rust blotch. To contrast well with the rust, I chose a light blue for the body. Quite good for a start, but not yet what I am targeting at. Next I sanded more body areas with grit 240 and 400 to reveal more "rust" from the first paint layer. After that, I sprayed a layer of flat clear paint on the body and immediately sprinkled fine salt from a shaker onto chosen areas, especially the existing rusty surface. When the paint was dry I worked the body with my fingers to rub off the salt. This leads to different effects. First of all you get small dents in the paint surface, making it look like blisters. Second you rub off some of the top paint coating, so that more small rust dents appear. And while rubbing, the abrasive effect also leads to additional rusty spots. Now comes the "enhancing" part. Equipped with AK "Rust Streaks" and "Interior Streaks", 2 old bristly brushes and an small rough sponge, I worked the rust areas. Keep the brushes dry and apply only a least amount of paint, switching from brush to brush and picking up and flattening the excess paint with the sponge. The deeper rust areas received a more darker tone. And in the end I further applied a few small spots of engine grime and spreckles of rust. I like the look! Next up is the BMF, which will also need some weathering. I have started with the interior while the paint layers were drying. The benches should get a REALLY worn look. I worked both benches to make then look torn open. I had some small springs that fit well into the opened seats and covered the inside with sponge material and styrene. After a creme paint coat the benches received a heavy patina and the springs got rusty. I gave the convertible top cover a work over too. The kit part is just too slick for a barn find. I covered the part with textile and added a metal bow breaking through the cover. After painting the top with anthracite it received a good weathering and rust for the metal. Thank you for taking a look! Best wishes, Andy

One of the things I havn't tried yet was a real dirty rust job. I was thinking of something old, but not necessarily going into the ´20s or ´30s. I discovered a ´52 Hudson Hornet convertible and the ideas came instantly, about how run down I could weather and age the open interior. I have built the Hornet before, but in shiny and clean, and the Moebius kits are a real good choice for fine mold engineering and good details. So far I have the engine finished and would like to show the building process and how I added AGE and grime. I use several patina colors when making an object look old. Dirt and rust don´t have a standard color and applying a lighter and darker color next or on top of each other comes very close to a natural aged surface. The products I used on this build are AK´s engine grime, interior streaking and rust streak. On the exhaust manifold I added a slight dab of copper under the rust streak. Next to an old hair brush I am fond of applying patina with small rough sponges. Take anything you might have in your household and rip off pieces the size of walnuts or hazels. In addition, I added fuel lines, various cables and details to the carburetors. I was not happy with my first idea of spark plug boots. I pulled out the first boots and slipped a slice of styrene tube under the vinyl hose to make it look like the spark plugs porcelain. With every new part attached I checked if some extra rust or weathering might be necessary. The air filters received strips of grid metal for the air intake. As usual, I deconstructed the belt part and prepared the pully wheels for a rubber belt. With the belt added, the engine is just about finished. The generator mount received some nuts and a last round of rust was needed for the fan and pullys. The cooling hoses are wire insulation stripped off the filament. I inserted a 0.6mm wire to bend it into place and added hose clamps. One thing is missing though: DUST! After hibernating for decades in a barn, just about everything gets dusty. With an airbrush I added a very slight layer of sand colored dust. I have started with the body today and hope to show the next steps soon. Thanks for watching!

@ David, Rastislav, LM, Donato, Mario and Bill: Thank you for your kind response!

@ Tom and Jeff, thanks for your kind replies, means a lot to me! Best wishes!

Hi Alan, yup, that´s the one! I bought it out of an impulse and during the next hours the ideas came flooding. Happy you like my build! Best wishes!

Hi everybody, thanks for your kind response! It´s always a thrill to post a new build here and see how you like it. Best wishes!

A while ago I watched some features about "private racing" on late night TV. Hot roders, tuning shop owners and speed freaks would meet on private grounds or way out of town and compete on the 1/4 mile. Everyone put the same amount in the hat and after several rounds of knock out races the winner took it all. Quite exiting, since the cars were all licensed and (barely) street legal, but the races were definitely not legal. Come to think of it, some of those cars didn´t really look legal themselves.... I could feel the tension! And that was the kind of car I wanted to build soon! I chose a REVELL ´68 Charger R/T and wanted to add a special feature, which would be a front tipping hood. The race goodies are suitable wheels and tires, a racing interior and a hot engine. The paint job should support the intention of serious business. In my case red and blue Tamiya metallic spray cans. The masking turned out easier than expected. Chrome is BMF. To the front and rear end I added modest spoilers. The rims and tires are from my parts box. I´m happy to finally have a build for those slicks. Cutting the front off the body was my first job and after that I had to always think three steps ahead to not forget something important. Attaching the firewall came very early and then I had to fill the empty spaces to the sides. The hood and the fenders are connected as if they were one part (maybe fiberglass?). The hinge ends are connected to the inside of the fenders and the middle part to the tip of the frame. You will see all the details in my WIP thread. The tipping works fine. I was very nervous to the end if it would work like in my first mock up? The hood just barely slips past the firewall and wheels and stays clear from the frame. The interior is reduced to racing needs, no back bench, but a fat role bar and 4-point belts. The engine and the bay received a special treatment. The engine is mainly kit, but I replaced the carb for a more detailed after market item (scale production). The scoop is for good air intake and cool looks. The cables, line and hoses are as close as possible to the 1:1. Overall I did only a mild smudging to give the engine and also the undercarriage a slightly worn look. The bottom has fuel and brake lines and that interesting parking brake setup of the original. The weathering was done with an airbrush and small rough sponges. Thanks for taking a look. Best wishes, Andy You can see the YouTube video with this link: https://youtu.be/yhK3D6GN_hM

Thanks everyone for your response! I will submit my thread with the final pics on "Under Glass" today.

So I did just about get finished over Easter with this build. It was a kind of pinch getting the major parts together, although this kit has a high molding quality. Usually it gets tight getting the body, tub and undercarriage together without having to remove some plastic. But in the end it did work out. Preparing the engine bay I had an idea getting more detail to the water cooler. I added a fine metal mesh to both sides and didn´t need any wash for that 3D look. The molded on cap was hardly visible, so I manufactured a new one from styrene. Making this build a front tipper I had to rethink the building process way before hand. The engine bay parts were disconnected from the body and received a different treatment and paint job. I connected the engine to the undercarriage first and then went to work around the engine with the bay walls. After this fit successfully, I was finally able to connect the body to the carriage. The battery, brake booster and all the wires and lines are now in their correct places. After attaching the front wheels, it is starting to look like a driveable car. The rims are not from the kit, but out of my parts box. Same with the tires, because I really wanted to build a racer with fat slicks in the back again. Getting tired of losing door handles and mirrors I have made it a habit to pin these delicate parts to the body. It is some effort drilling tiny holes (0.4mm) and connecting the wires. But attaching them to the body is so easy now. They don´t slip while the glue is drying and I can even use white glue to avoid messing the paint with aggressive glues. The final attachment was the tipping hood. I was really nervous if the assembly would work out like in my first mock up. I didn´t want to risk that the hood might disconnect later by a clumsy handling, so I added a reinforcement by wrapping thin wires around the hinge tube and the tip of the frame. Secured it with super glue. After taking this pic I covered the hinge parts with anthracite paint. After removing the masking tape that kept the hood in place I was finally able to tip the hood and see if does open correctly..... I owe myself a drink for this. Engineering works out fine, much better than my last front tipper 2 years back. Now I only have to attach the front spoiler. I will take some higher quality images soon and show the finished build on the "Under Glass" forum. Thanks to those watching my WIP!

Because some of you were curious to see how the paint job would turn out, I will start now with those images. The red and blue base coat did give a rough impression, but of course the final color would be something more classy. I had a deep metallic blue and a intense metallic red on the shelf, but both cans had only about 30% content left. You know how they start sputtering once they get low or if you tip the can too much while spraying. So I only had one shot to make it right! A bit of a sweat, but it went fine?. After wet sanding the body with grit 1000 I started with the red. I didn´t want to just let the red hit the blue, so I fine masked a thin line (1mm Tamiya) and spared another thin line on the red surface. During a first mock up I realized that the wheel opening was too tight for the big slicks. So I had to grind, file and sand them to make it fit and look fine. When finished, the open white styrene surface was then painted with a fine hair brush. Next the body got a grit 6000 wet sanding to level out the masking bumps and remove the last tiny bumps. Bare metal is applied only to the window frames. No unnecessary trim on this racer. Those few decals are put in place and left to dry. Earlier today I sprayed the body parts with a crystal clear coat and really love the look, but this image is still without the clear finish. The undercarriage is also finished in the meantime. Since this is not a show car, I gave the bottom a mild weathering to show some street dirt and wear. The gray received 2 different browns with my airbrush and a light dipping with a sponge. First I attached the brake and fuel lines. These are connected to the undercarriage with very thin floral wire (0.25mm) through small holes. The parking brake is very close to the original, but ended up a bit too big. Might get that smaller on a future build. Here tiny crimp beads and micro cables from a craft store come very handy. Adding the rear axle with the suspension. It may sound foolish, but I like to add the exhaust system last. Even though that means having to cut the pipes to make it fit. But since the cut is under the axle it does not show afterwards. Just some highlights and the undercarriage is now finished. Exhaust pipes and the axle got some weathering too. I modified the interior to create a racing feeling. The kit seats were discarded and replaced by racing buckets I had in my parts box. The back bench is out and made way for a a reinforcement wall and a roll bar. The seat belts were nerve wrecking but finally ended up in the right places. No flock on the floor. The color mix is an aggressive anthracite with some red details. The dash is enhanced with wire rings around the gauges. Chrome work is BMF and Molotow chrome pen. At this stage it feels like being "almost" finished. But I know there are still some hours to go. I might make the finish line on the coming Easter weekend. Come to think of it: Happy Easter to all of you! And thanks for watching.

Cool build Gerald! Great paint job and fine work on the chrome. I imagine that car rumbling at a red light and waiting for a short race ?

Well done build Jeff! The color matches very good to the era and this body type. Sorry for the missing hood ornament. Have you ever thought of making one yourself? How about taking sheet or rod styrene and carefully filing it into shape. It is a bit laborious, but not much can go wrong and the finished result would enhance your hood.

Hi Marty, you turned that ugly duckling into a cool little swan! The effort really shows and the overall look with those wheels is nasty hot. Great job!

Hi Michelle, good job! Paint looks cool! I have been thinking about printing for quite a while. So did I get it right: You printed the body and most of the parts yourself? I have to dig into the printing subject much more. The most 3D printing stuff I see is with thermo plastics, which I can´t imagine being fine enough for some details. You mention resin printing. Resin must be a two component material (?). I need to do more research on printing: What printer (quality, price, size, filament...), where do I get the files? You gave me a big nudge, thanks!

While the glue, putty and the paint coats on the body are drying, I like to work on my favorite part of each build, the engine. This REVELL kit has a very high standard and the details are sharp and all important parts included. But I will of course do a lot of extra work on the details. The block is a classic light blue now, the intake I worked a bit with diamond files to enhance the shape and added a bit of grime for a better 3D effect. The carb is after market (scale production) and has much more detail than the kit part. Before I apply the paint to the block (in this case acrylic AERO Color and a top coat of clear) I try to get all the drilling for plugs and the cooling hoses done. To beef up the looks and the intake I added a scoop from my parts box. This scoop was quite simple so I drilled holes into the front and worked it with a scalpel and files for a real looking open mouth. Later I will add a 0.5mm rod at the rear bottom to attach it to the carburetor. Here I have the distributor and the throttle lever attached. I build my distributors from 6mm aluminum tube, 2mm brass rod and push the fine wire ignition cables between the two. Glued with super glue they will never disconnect and can take a hard pull while building. The lever is 0.5mm brass and thin sheet styrene. The ignition cables are attached and the fuel lines are added to the right engine side. In this case 0.6mm silver plated wire and fine crimp beads. You should be able to get this stuff at a crafts store that sells products for fashion jewelry. The valve covers have an asymmetrical ventilation system. Next stage I added some wires to the coil and was barely able to push it under the fuel lines. Should have done this earlier... The cooling hoses are in place too. I pull the copper threads out of a 3mm wire and push a soft aluminum wire into vinyl insulation. this way I can bend the hoses into any shape and they stay where I want them. The exhaust manifolds have received only a slight bit of rust. I confess that I don´t like those one piece pulley/belt parts. After several engines with "real" belts I like taking that extra effort and, if possible, deconstruct that part for further use. I cut, sand and file the pulley wheels until I have enough surface for the belts. On this build I sanded some wheels as thin as possible and added a short piece of styrene rod for the belts. The alternator and the power steering unit would not take the pull of the rubber belts if just glued to the block. I connect these parts with brass wire pins and super glue. Same as I happened to do with the oil filter. The kit alternator is chrome plated but that just does not look real, so a shiny silver makes the difference. Now I can attach the belts. These I cut from a 1mm thin rubber mat. I´m still looking for an even thinner mat but to no success yet. I far as I can tell, my engine is finished now. Total building time about 18 hours. A bit of a shame that some details get lost in the engine bay... The body has made the next step. Don´t get fooled by the colors, this is NOT the final color code. Just the base coat for the real layers. But it does give a hint of what direction I am going. Thanks for watching !

My idea for this build was triggered by a feature on late night TV. Independent auto shops and hot rod builders meeting at secret places to challenge each other and win the prize money. My Charger would be an almost street legal car ready for illegal races on the outskirts at night. The body is modified as a front tipper. I glued the hood to the fenders and cut them off the body. The fire wall is attached so I could fill the empty spaces left from the doors. To enable the front to tip correctly without jamming I hat to cut back the sides of the firewall. In the end the tipped front will look something like this: The engine will be a beast and needs plenty of air to breathe, so I added the kit scoop. Bending the hinges was quite easy. After finding the ideal length for the hinges I cut the rod at the middle in two pieces. This way I was able to bend both sides to exactly the same lengths and angles. Here I got the hinge in the right place to connect the ends to the inside of the fenders. As with the firewall I had to cut of some of the frame so the front would tip without getting hooked up with the undercarriage. The middle tube will be attached as the very last building step. For now I have it taped to check if everything works how I imagined it. YO! It works! I found a messy spot at the rear fender after the first primer coat and filled it with styrene and putty. The firewall needed some putty also and mow all the cracks are filled and almost smooth. A look at the front from the inside. I keep the mechanics free form paint with masking tape. The primer coat feels alright to me and after grit 1000 ready for the color. This will be a two tone job and it will take a bit of masking to separate the front and the back end. Next time I will show the progress on the engine. Thanks for watching!