Tcoat

I will be posting picture of the final thing later this afternoon. The holes will look much better after I get the flat coat on top of everything. Right now they are still shiny so the edges sort of blur but once flat they will just look like voids. It really beats trying to drill out hundreds of oblong holes. This is the 1/350 I-400 with the effect in place.

The limber holes are done in the sequence above. Base paint. Then black tinted Future to start the darkening process and give a gloss base for the shade step. Then black shade paint dropped into the holes and the excess wiped off the glossy Future coat. I use a Citadel figure shade wash called Nuln Oil for this but any black wash such as panel line will do. Then the whole works get' a coat of Testers Dullcoat to knock off any sheen.

Yep! That is the hook.

Who knows why?

Stages. Plain paint to Future wash to black wash to limber holes, guns and hatches only to Blotchy Agrax Earthshade wash to overall. Next up will be a flat coat to knock off any remaining gloss and even things out.

You won't be disappointed.

Yep but... Look even better when I am actually done with it. I challenged myself to paint using only the kit supplied stuff and that I did but I never promised to stop there! I didn't research this a lot so not sure how accurate the colours and pattern are for real Uboats of that period but the kit supplied paint and instructions are bang on to the movie version. At the start of the movie the paint was very pretty and clean much like the model right now. Not so much when it returns (And anybody that has seen the movie knows it get's much worse in about 5 minutes)

You can do it over the flat clear. Sometimes even works better really.

Give him a good dark wash to define lines and add shadows before you dullcoat him. Don't be afraid of overdoing it since it will become much more subtle when he is in the cockpit. PICTURES ARE AN EXAMPLE ONLY

Lower hull and details painted. Those nasty rivets interfered with the masking exactly as It thought they would but that is fine. Technically it is "done" but if anybody thinks I will leave it like this they have surprises coming.

They were a very fun little car. Was very little like them at the time.

That Camaro roof works PERFECT! If you hadn't said anything I would never have known. I had a couple of chances to pick up sub $100 four doors back in the day but was all like "ewwww 4 door nobody wants that" Now I would take one in a heartbeat!

I am amazed at the number of people across a few forums that said they used to own one of these cars. For a car that history misremembers as a "failure" it sure seems it was popular. Leaky but still popular!

Build done. Total assembly time 5 hours and 27 minutes. A fair bit of clean up on very tiny parts extended the time a bit. It was sort of odd because only one corner of one sprue has flash. The corner of the mold must not have bee closed completely. It wasn't horrid but did need cleanup. First coat of kit supplied paint on. This paint brushes really nicely but of course I had to airbrush so took some time to figure out best thinner. It is more like craft paint than normal model acrylics and the only thing that will thin it is water. Just water. Trust me don't use anything but water if you use these! Looked awful going on but once dry is a really nice flat finish.

Pretty sure YOU will be the local Model T expert before much longer!

You misunderstood Ace. He was not saying that nobody wanted anything to do with you nor your posts but that the topic of discussion here has moved on past your original error (whatever that actually was since I never bothered to look). EDIT: OH I made the rookie mistake of not checking for a second page before posting and now this looks silly! What the guys above me said.

LOL We are in complete agreement.

All of the above. When I received my first resin body (the Jimmy Flintstone Econoline) there was a little card with very specific instructions on what to clean it with and what primer to use. I followed those instructions to the letter on the outside but got lazy with the inside and just gave it a quick wipe. Wasn't worried as the inside was going to be covered in paper with white glue over the black automotive primer I used. Well The paint on the outside was rock solid and wouldn't come off if you wanted it to but inside the primer would practically fall off if you shook it hard enough. My own fault for not following instructions especially when they are so specific!

Yep! If it is in some way related to the conversation that is one thing if it is totally off the beaten track then another. Really no reason to post any pictures in somebody's finished project thread unless asked for or there is direct and obvious link somehow. It is the WIP threads where I feel it is more important to people being open to ideas and where posting a picture or two may be helpful in expressing an idea.

I am on several forums and this one is really the only one where posting an example of your work in the theme of a discussion on another Member's WIP thread seems to be taken as "look at me" and not "here is what I did as an example". Not sure if it is because this forum has so many long term members that have become sensitive to such things due to just interacting between themselves so long or what but it is obvious sometimes. I personally would love it if somebody jumped into my thread and said "that is OK but have you tried this" and showed a couple of pictures of what they meant. This action seems to be highly frowned upon here though. This is a forum where interaction, including sample pictures should be encouraged not Instagram or Facebook where "LOOK AT ME" is the rule. If anybody is just looking for attention and not interaction those are the places to be. Now, that said, somebody jumping into in Under Glass thread with "That's nice but mine is better here look" would be incredibly offensive no matter how long they have been here. I love looking at other peoples projects and sharing my own since nobody at home really cares and have found this forum responsive and interesting but even after all the things I have posted I still sometimes feel like and outsider or that I am considered the new guy just spamming with old build threads.

Didn't know there was one! I think I am free that weekend. wonder if I can get a base built and my Econoline project done in time. HMMMMMMMM

It will to some extent and weathering will decrease them even more but it is still a shame that they are there at all. This is an otherwise outstanding kit. People would say these rivets and lines are way too much on a 1/48 aircraft so on a 1/144 submarine they are extreme. I certainly wouldn't discourage anybody from getting this kit because of them but they should be aware they are there. I am going to hide them with weathering smoke and mirrors this time but if anybody is doing an all out detail they really should come off or at least get knocked way down.

OK back at it. Tower detail is nice. This is where some photoetch may dress it up a bit but not a lot since the molded parts are actually pretty nice overall. That tiny grating and wood bulkhead paneling will pop with a wash. The rails are of course a tad overscale and need some serious cleanup but thing they will look good once done. Luckily the styrene is easy to work with being neither too hard nor soft. It would be Goldilocks approved. OK Back to building

OK so it is time for the 4 hours of bench time (not consecutive) update. Lower hull and decks assembled. There were a couple of small spots where the deck just simply would not meet flush with the hull. Keep in mind that these small gaps are about the width of a hair not the trench it looks like here. Paint would likely fill them but I gave them a swipe with some clear parts cement just to make sure. Now, let's discuss the elephant in the room! This kit was designed and built in 2006 (Thanks Scalemates) NOT 1966. They have completely beautiful, crisp, scale details. Just look at that deck above. So why? Just why, did they feel the need to festoon the hull with massive (in scale) rivets and raised panel lines? In scale those rivets are about 4 inches around and protrude about 3. The panel lines are more like 6 wide and 3 high. Not only is this sub going to lose about 10 knots on the surface and be almost immobile submerged it is going to make so much noise while underway that the invention of asdic would never be needed. If this was not going to be a quick build I would have spent a couple of days sanding all that carefully molded detail off. You just would not see any of this in 1/144. OH the wife needs me! More in a bit.

Need to take a break from cars so lets do a fun little build of this. Using only the paints that came with the kit It is 1:16PM on Saturday March 11 and I am cutting the first part off the sprue ... NOW