Tcoat

This ^. It works surprisingly well if any of the thin cements that weld parts was used. Doesn't work quite as well if super glue or any of the thick bonding glues were used but still will help.

Not what he meant. This happens often on Ebay. Whoever entered the price did not check off the currency as Yen. They checked the Dollar box but then entered the amount as if in Yen. Depending on how often they check their posts (which could be almost never for a big place) it could stay wrong for the duration of the posting.

These ones always made me chuckle

Well... the reality of Japanese car shows is actually well represented there.

The Monogram was a new tool kit not a rebox of the old Aurora. Mind you the new tool was in 1974! https://www.scalemates.com/kits/monogram-7546-black-widow-p-61--143394 I have built both and they are very very different parts breakdowns.

Pegasus They also have the T800s and the aerial HK in the same scale. They were really hard to find for a while but they just rereleased them all last year so should still be some around.

For anybody that doesn't know how big a 1/35 Sherman tank is for the size comparison here we have it with a 1/24 Datsun pickup.

DUDE! Look Behind You 1/35 tank for scale Very happy with my results.

My favourite movie car of all time!

I have neglected my updates! Base coat of Tamiya "chrome" silver on all surfaces. It took two full bottles! This will be the actual main colour for things such as the guns, arms and any un armoured parts. The "specs" for these things (you can find anything on the internet) say the body armour was high gloss titanium. I suppose that was too to help deflect the fire from a phased plasma rifle in the 40 watt range. Hard to see in the picture but there are three different shades here. The Tamiya chrome, old Testers small bottle steel and silver. Then my usual overall wash of tinted Future (I use it on everything) finished off with a light wash of Citadel Nuln Oil shade. Normally I would do an overcoat of flat but this all needs to have at least some shine to it. Couldn't decide what to do for the main body armour. Didn't want to go with some of the better know mettalizer paints since this is such a large area and they can be delicate at best. Had a little better than half a bottle of Modelmaster chrome and wasn't sure if enough but I got brave and went for it. With judicious thinning and not getting carried away with the thickness I had plenty to cover where it was needed with enough left over for touchups if (well... WHEN) I need them. It was exactly the finish I was after! Looks like "titanium" without being bumper chrome bright. The gun support is the main body colour. Looks really good just plain. But really comes to life once weathered! Getting there.The "head" is almost done. Tracks are Testers small bottle flat steel with a wash of Citadel Agrax Earthshade for some patina. Figured that even in the Skynet world of 2029 tank tracks are tank tracks. Most of body is shiny silver (not bumpy like pictures make it look)with exposed equipment and some panels done in flat steel. Wanted variation but not massive differences.Base Steel with black wash

Came expecting a WIP. Left jealous of the volume purchased.

The gang Brother and sister And the much younger Catzzilla

Guy at work

Nothing saying they are the same company just different countries. Some of these companies shamelessly copy another product right down to the last detail. Saves a pile of money on development I am sure.

I use white glue for "caulking" for filling gaps all the time. Never had an issue with any type of paint.

SPOT ON!

This is a converted Cadillac

The panel lines are clearly excessive as the real SR-71 had none visible.

Yep. By "regular" masking tape I mean any normal painter type tape. Another way to de tack it is to put it on your pants and pull it off a few times. DO NOT use this method if you have cats or dogs!

I use Tamiya tape well burnished down for the edge and then de tacked regular masking tape for the rest. To de tack the tape just put it down on a clean surface and pul it back up a few times. It should be sticky enough to hold but come off without damaging the paint. If you want to be really sure that you don't have bleed through under the Tamiya tape you can give a very light coat of your base paint over the tape line first to really seal the edge. Practice the method on something else first is always a good idea.

A work of art is a work of art regardless of the subject matter!