Tcoat

Made a simple yet explanatory base that doesn't distract from the model. Opinions please?

It looked so tiny!

About a quarter of the parts. No silly photo etch hinges, magnets to hold it closed or gimmicky interchangeable landing gear to deal with. Just some plain old well molded plastic so shouldn't be much that can go wrong. The only issue I have had is when I tried to put the decal on the panel it exploded into a million pieces and the resulting shrapnel almost took out two of my fish and the cat! Going to see if I can save the rest of them with an overcoat of lacquer but may have to go aftermarket. Be a shame because I like the kit markings.

You are right! The subtle way is better. I would have got it immediately even with just the guitar.

There is no way I was typing the full name in that title! Monday I got the hankering to build a nice out of box aircraft and since the kits I bought at the flea market a couple of weeks ago were sitting on the table so... For a change of pace this will be done with very lightly weathered almost factory fresh paint. Cockpit assembled Cockpit base coat Detail painted and tinted Future wash Not sure who designs these models with the nice padded bucket seat but it has to either go or be hidden and since this will be OOB then hidden it shall be. Base detail in gloss You know what wash. Even glossier. Pilot in dark brown wash but not flat coated yet. Cockpit still glossy

Was a bit surprised to see a Tamiya kit with filler on it. That is almost unheard of! Never built that one so looked it up. It isn't an old kit but most build reviews say it is a very tricky one to get right as it has all sorts of interchangeable modules and magnetic closures and such. Looked like a hard pass for me and I have done loads of aircraft.

Very cool! Bit different but not way out there.

Wherever you put it you need to have the proper album cover nearby! I read the thread title and have had the whole album running through my head ever since. It wasn't very largeThere was just enough room to cram the drumsIn the corner over by the DodgeIt was a fifty-fourWith a mashed up doorAnd a cheesy little ampWith a sign on the front said "Fender Champ"And a second hand guitarIt was a Stratocaster with a whammy bar

Oh and if using the 3M spray make sure WELL ventilated and don't use near an open flame! That stuff as a warning label about 3 pages long.

In the car! A plumbed engine is doing no good on the shelf.

Almost all I have done in cars! Now where can I find a 1984 Chevy Citation 4 door?

Doesn't look like the motorized version was ever done in anything but clear. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/monogram-85-4675-bell-huey-gunship--184996

Would have been the old Monogram Phantom Huey that he painted up. It has all the features you mentioned. I lusted after that kit back in the late 60s but at $20 it was out of reach! Should have saved up and bought a few I guess. https://www.ebay.com.my/itm/Vintage-1969-Monogram-Phantom-Huey-Chopper-Model-Kit-Scale-1-24-Great-Condition-/125686020275?pageci=a8d77563-b346-4b75-b4db-2a5982d47659

These cars I used to own and this is how it was builds are my favourites!

Excellent! I want the real thing just like that.

Jimmy Flintsone resin body and dash. Front seats, door panels, drivetrain and chassis the Lindberg Dodge Fever kit.

Ironically enough getting that basic exterior to have just the right amount of wear and tear was probably the hardest part of the whole thing. It needed to be blotchy in areas without having obvious differences between them, the roof and a couple of small areas on the sides needed to have cracked but not peeling paint and I had to add a couple of subtle door dings that didn't just look like stuff in the paint. Not to mention 1/24 scale swirl marks! You would think that would be easy but it took at least 5 try's to get something that wasn't way over scale or almost invisible. I wish I had pictures of the real thing to show just how close it actually is but if any ever existed they are long gone now.

This is the 4th installment in my "Cars I used to Own" series. It is as accurate to the real thing as my memory could make it. The doors are being 3d printed someday but since will be displayed open anyway calling it done for now. Details can be found in the WIP section. For anybody reading this in the future (well my future your present if you are reading this years from now) here it is With no further ado...

Done. More in Under Glass

All done. Total working time 22 hours 19 minutes. Tools consisted of a dull exacto knife, a worn out medium brush, and two toothpicks (I broke one). Although it does look pretty good all things considered it would certainly be considered a "turd" by my normal standards. The gun could have used some thinning on several parts, hydraulic lines and filler on some seams. The truck's paint is horrid, several parts are slightly warped and there is shiny super glue left uncoated on many small parts. Worst of all is that the front wheels have the stance of an 18 year old's Honda Civic! I really enjoyed this basic build!

What Future does better than anything else is self level. If you want a nice even coat then sure any shiny finish material will work. If you want it to flow across the surface then future is your stuff. I use other clear coats for many thing but Future on literally every model I paint. It is (well was) fast, easy and durable so why so many haters?

Even wicking it I could not get tint dark enough to know it was even there on the main parts of the clear. Never tried food colouring though.

Does it self level as well as the Future? Seems like it.

I use tinted future on ever single thing I build. The self leveling feature of it makes it perfect for adding subtle shadows and highlighting both sunken and raised details. Unfortunately this same feature makes it useless for tinting clear parts! Since it spreads to low places or bunches up around raised ones it leaves very very little material in between. I tried several different mixes for tinted windows on a Huey and they were a complete failure.

It is really REALLY easy to do but not sure I would want to know what it would cost for enough to do a 1/32 P-51! That would be a pile of foil.