Tcoat

Crew with flat coat and badges painted. Guy in front right appears to have found some mushrooms on the side of the road and now thinks the universe is in his hand. This does amuse his buddy beside him though.

What do those guys know? That big old engine is begging for plumbing and wires.

The whole concept intrigued me so I looked them up. They really came apart for transport! http://www.primeportal.net/trucks/ulrich_wrede/gmc_cckw-353/

Well let me se if I can even find them before making any promises!

By "red line" do you mean the red outline or the red bar? I probably have a couple of decal sets around from the old F4U-5N Hobby Boss kit which would be late in the right era but would have the red bar. Like these Although it looks like just about any WW2 insignia would cover the 1946 version.

Any "car guy" I know will always appreciate a model of their old cars especially when you managed to get so close to the picture of the real thing.

Tinted Future on everything. Subtle but makes details show. Selective brown wash. There is a difference I promise. And the crew in Future and wash. They will magically transform with a flat coat.

I can pretend that an AT is a MT, I don't care if the wheels are proper for the year or even make and overall I can live with most "errors". But... On the off chance that anybody from the manufacturers and especially Round 2 read this what I would like to see is some sort of consistency in the quality of the rereleases. I understand they are working with old and sometimes worn molds but I don't enjoy paying full market price for a kit ('69 Corvair) that has so much flash and massive mold lines because of bad alignment that I may as well have carved it out of a solid block of styrene. Then you open the next one ('64 Galaxie) and fine a beautiful work of casting that doesn't even see a sanding stick. Then the next is a mix of horrid Aurora like blobs for parts and some super fine ones. I am reaching the point where Round 2 will soon be dead to me unless I simply must have that one kit. Want full price spend some time to clean up these old molds and give us full quality on a regular basis. Oh and side mirrors would be nice with every kit! Only about 50% seem to have them even though they are a highly visible part of most cars.

I have a sort of rule of thumb for weathering any subject. I take the scale and reduce it around 10% and consider that the distance I am viewing the subject from in feet. So the 1/144 foot uboat in this case would be weathered as if I was looking at it from 130 feet away. This gives a better effect when looking at a model as things are more in scale. For this example I used no actual rust tones since at that distance you simply would not see the actual colours it would just be botches that are different than the surrounding paint. If this was a 1/72 boat it would be a 60 foot viewing distance and you would actually see individual rust colors but they would still be blended and not stark against the rest of the paint. If this was a 1/24 scale boat (it would be huge of course) then you would see each steak of rust, chips, scrapes, etc since the "view" would be from only 20 feet away. Does this make any sense at all?

Amazing overall but my favourite is the spilled fuel running down from the filler. That is the perfect touch of realism.

Amazing overall but my favourite is the spilled fuel running down from the filler. That is the perfect touch of realizim.

Perfection

Gun painted in dark yellow. Since the grey was no good and this whole build was intended to be done with what was on hand I figured this was the way to go. Just means I have modeled an older truck with a newer gun. No doubt these transitional things were pretty common. At least that is what I am going with. The paint is so close to the plastic colour it is hard to tell it was painted at all.

Almost forgot to post paint pictures! Had something go dreadfully wrong with my panzer grey Tamiya acrylic. Normally would have stopped but since the whole premise of this build is minimalist and what ever happens happens I just carried on as if I was 8 again. We will see what happens with it in the weathering process. Looks worse in the pictures than it really is. You can see where I started to do the tinted Future wash before I remembered to take pictures.

Very detailed. Missing the normal things like brake lines and such but what they did do they did very well! I have never done an ICM kit before but will get more. The only thing is that all that detail comes through assembling some very tiny parts. The plastic stand up very well though considering how thin some are.

Fine Scale Modeler Was sort of a pondering thread but the word challenge came up and I thought it may be a fun little thing to do. It does feel like I am 9 again. Hack a part off, clean what can be done with just a knife and glue it on.

Box done. That was an adventure! Nice ejector marks but the whole idea was to not worry about such things so there they stay.

Cab ready for paint roof and rear will go on after details. I am pretty sure that the glue bombs of the past were more due to a lack of tweezers for precision placement. The glue around the pedals is from trying to place very tiny parts with just my finger. It is extra thin cement so will disappear under paint but normally it would not happen at all.

Chassis done. I almost feel like I am cheating! The truck is an ICM kit packaged by Tamiya. First ICM kit I have ever built and I WILL be getting more. Bit fiddly with loads of small parts but engineered really well and detail is off the charts. In the spirt of the exercise everything will get glued together in large sub assemblies and then painted.

Going to build using only this. Gun done. On hour 12 minutes. Only reached for sanding stick and tweezers about 100 times.

It is a C.

On another forum the challenge was put out to build a model without getting all tied up with things such as seam filling, perfect alignment, photoetch and added detailing. This will be a completely OOB build to meet those criteria. I do however reserve the right to give it a nice paint job. I had no big plans for this kit and the only reason I bought it was it looked interesting and was dirt cheap so it is perfect for this.

Out of the box with the exception of antenna wires and insulators. Painted with kit supplied "acrylic" paints. Weathered with tinted Future and Citadel shades. Total working time 10hours 39 minutes.

Back at it! Still waiting for 3d printed doors but want to get into a show next weekend so need to finish even with old doors. Here is how far I have gone to get it right. The roof paint of the real thing was badly cracked. The only thing I could ever figure was that when the enamel was sprayed on it was was not prepped well and then taken out into the hot sun and the roof expanded cracking the paint but not causing it to flake. I had no idea how to replicate that. Then I figured if that was what happened to the real thing why not try on the model. I already had the high gloss lacquer on it so put the body in the freezer for an hour and then sprayed Tamiya semigloss black over it. When it was almost dry I hit it briefly with a blow dryer. And PERFECT!

Cars are actually the minority of what I do but I was on a marathon for a bit there so needed to step away. Yes the lines and rivets do take away from the overall detail in my opinion at any rate. They are just so grossly overscale. I do however feel that once it is flat coated they will disappear somewhat into the weathering. If nothing else it will look fine as a 3 foot view range model. Here is a survivor of a similar boat. Notice the complete lack of fist sized rivets and 2"x6" welded plate seams.