Chris V

I literally just saw a post on Facebook, that Greg Wann is casting the Firestone Darlingtons!

So do I... It's also worth noting that these tires were molded from a different rubber compound and don't have the same tendency to chemically "melt" plastic rims like the regular vinyl kit tires of the time.

It appears to be an old AMT "Authentic Model Turnpike" Slot Car tire. They found their way into a very few early sixties' AMT kits as well, including some of the original "Trophy Series" 1958 Chevrolet Impala kits.

Just a friendly reminder that not all members of the forum happen spend their entire life online or live in your time-zone (part of the world for that matter). My reply to the intial question contained an accurate overall measurement and instructions to use the framerails as guide for narrowing the floorpan. All pretty basic measuring and math, most would agree... But I see how laziness is justified cause to derail the discussion with nonsense, over an issue you were already aware of.

Because God forbid you should try to ask politely…

I’m not quite sure who your last remark was directed at @Ace-Garageguy I think I provided quite exact measurements on how much to reduce the width - including additional framerail to edge measurements of the trimmed floorpan. I don’t know what chassis @SfanGoch measured or how he did it in order to arrive at 82 mm, but after carefully measuring the original issue 1955 Chevy Kit I can tell you that the widest point of the unaltered floorpan is just 69.20 mm and that the chassis is offset by exactly 1.00 mm (approximately one scale inch) towards the passenger side. Thus more material will have to be removed from the drivers side than the passenger side of the floorpan in order to center the chassis.

Try reading my post again… I clearly stated that I narrowed the floorpan to (not by) 67.00 mm using the framerails as guide to center the chassis. Without an unaltered floorpan handy it’s kinda difficult to tell exactly how much to remove from each side, but the current distance from the framerail side to the edge of the floorpan is 12.50 mm.

I’ve narrowed it down to 67.00 mm, using a vernier caliper and the framerails as guide to determine how much I had to remove from each side of the floorpan in order to get the frame properly centered under the body.

It likely refers to the radiused rear wheel openings. There's been some speculation that the tooling for the 55's tires wasn't included when Atlantis purchased the tooling following the Hobbico bankruptcy. This would also explain why the Parts Pack wheels have been included in the Atlantis reissue. Affectionally known as "The Unbuildables" the original Revell 1954-57 Chevy kits were ahead of their time in terms of detail. Unfortunately the ambitions were ahead of the tooling technology as well, making the kits quite fiddly and... challenging to build. However the '55 is by far the best of the bunch, and it can in fact be built into a really nice looking model with some patience and effort. It's worth mentioning that the chassis is slightly offset to one side. By removing a different amount of material from each side of the floor pan, you can align the chassis properly and relieve some of the stress on the fragile rocker panels making the model much easier to assemble.

In general a ‘68 would have been medium grey primer with body color overspray along the sides.

Have you considered selling them at “Thangs” (The former “Shapeways Marketplace”). They have a printing facility in the Netherlands.

As Mark says, Palmer literally just reversed the chassis from one of their other models to put something under the Porsche.

Spectacular build with impressive details!

I just checked the instruction sheet, and they fit inside a hole in the disk brake hub and spindle. You simply "trap" them in the cavity between the two parts and push the wheel stub into the brake assembly from the outside, once the glue has set: https://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/downloads/300024110/300024110_Mazda_RX-7.pdf

Many Japanese kits have this type of wheel retainers. They're made from a slightly flexible compound and designed to fit into a slot or cavity in the brake/suspension assembly. Each wheel has a stub on the back side, that you simply push into the retainer ring (no glue).