I think that for as much bare metal foil that most use, I don't see why not use it. I tired recently the tin foil method and I will admit that the final results look just as good as bare metal foil. I actually found it was easier to get smooth and becuase it is a little thicker than bare metal foil, it hides more slight imperfections that bare metal foil does not. Some drawbacks I think. I have not found an efficient way of glueing it to the plastic. On my test I used elmers spray adhesive and found it worked fine but much extra tedious work was required to mask the areas around the trim so avoid adhesive going where I don't want it. Another drawback is this tin foil makes blades dull after only a minute. I know that most use some sort of metal foil glue but I have not tried this. My biggest worry is that while easier to use, the process of burnishing and rubbing the tin foil, might cause the glue to ooze evrwhere underneath including under the part of tinfoil that will be cut away. But practice might solve that. Until only recently, I built late 60's and 70's model kits so only chrome trim was around front and back winshields and small trim above side windows and sometimes around wheel openings. But now I have a 57 chevy and 56 chevy kits, which have more elaborate tim and in more places, like the side panels and on tops of fenders. So one technique I am testing is painting the chrome trim on with alclad chrome. I have tested with 67 coronet kit and so far,the results were good, especially on the triangle vented windows, which I could never do with bare metal foil, as it would buckle in the corners and look terrible. I think with carefull masking, this method could be more consitent results to bare metal foil. But this is not cheaper method, so better option is still to use bare metal foil or tinfoil for areas such as windshields trim and other simple shaped areas. W hen I resume airbrushing in summer I will do one more test and take digital pictures and post.
