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Remember to install a B pillar, as no American car company has the balls to produce a true hardtop. But it is only a concept, and looking good so far.

Yes, never believe a label that says water clean up, when it comes to acrylic paint. I usually put the brush in a bowl or jar of water immediately after using it, but to get completely clean, I have had sucess with rubbing alcohol or methyl hydrate. On airbrushes water won't even make a dent in the paint thats dried on the sides of the cup or the needle tip. I go straight to the lacquer thinner for that.

Michaels , is a little pricey even with the coupon. Hellonwheelz, do yourself a favor and look here first. http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Garage_Sale.asp A 150 for 35 dollars? Not gonna get a better deal than that. Just make sure you get the addapter so you can use a decent airhose with it.

Yes, I was told by the people at BMF that the adhesize is applied to the sheets with a roller. Its the texture on that roller that transfers to the foil. And yes it will not burnish out, makes thin round trim look like chromed rebar. But bare metal foil is still the best thing for small things like scripts. Jeff

Sometimes it is humid even though it doesn't feel like it. Basements can be humid areas. Word of advice, not really safe to be using that stuff indoors period, let alone in a furnace room. Jeff

Before you can answer this question, you must first define pony car. Then find out if the barracuda fits these criteria or not. I don't think engine size options make a difference here and neither do lack of body style options, as long as the one style offered is a "pony car" style. For example, I would consider corvettes to be in a sportscar class, even though the original 'vettes did not have a v8 motor. Jeff

Flea markets are the best places to look. And the only places I buy my kits. Even scour the antique stores. Sometimes they have a few kicking around. Price range from only a few dollars to 10 dollars I have found, unless its a dealer selling something obviously vintage. But most of the time, the vendors just assume its a 90's era kit and charge about 10. I usually haggle the half built, pieces missing kits to a few bucks, great for spare parts. Jeff

So far very good points, all of them. Some of my peeves, aside from the ones already mentioned - under-detailed, molded in wiper arms and blades. Example, AMT 1971 duster. - "Bucket" style interiors on older kits. - embossed gauge numbers, rather than decals - inner fenders with molded in hoses, batteries etc. - floating alternators. Be nice if they molded them with the brackets at least, like the Revell 67 coronet - no steering shaft on most model kits Things I would like to see - vent windows frames and fuel tanks as seperate pieces, especially the fuel tank. I find it a PITA to mask this off and alclad. Am I being too nitpicky? Probably. Personally, I think the AMT 66 olds and the AMT 71 duster and 2 of the best kits I have ever seen so far. Be nice if the kit companies could take the best elements of the best kits and drop all the worst and agree on a common configuration and build the kits to that standard. Production defects will always be there to some degree but if fixing a sink hole or two if the only issue with the kit, rather than having to scratch build things or wasting time masking off washer fluid bottles, all in all, building the kit should prove to be considerably more enjoyable. Jeff

I have a question about wire gauges. I have some detail master race ignition wire, which they advertise as being ".016" Dia. wire". According to a wire gauge chart I found, that would make it 26 gauge wire. But yet , it is slightly smaller than the 30 gauge wire I bought today. Just wondering because I found a place online that sells 30,32 and 36 gauge wire and I am a little worried about what I will get if I order it. The website says this about their 36 gauge wire. "The 36 gauge wire is made of 7 strands of tinned 44 gauge copper wire, and has outside diameter of .016" (.041mm)". I am guessing that this is the same size as the detail master stuff.

Thats true, the madmax car was based on a Ford falcon, and I wish somebody did make one because they look awesome. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...Ford_Falcon.jpg Has some styling of the 71 mustang and torino cobra. You can actually buy those fiberglass panels to create you're own madmax car. Even that fake hoodscoop. Providing you can get you're hands on a ford falcon. But back to the kit, you did an amazing job. One of my fav movie cars. Jeff

http://www.minutemanbuick.citymax.com/cata...638/5225646.htm Is it me , or did full size buick share some of the styling with cadillac? http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-1970-197...nt-Angle-PO.jpg But again, I dont think these exist either. Jeff

All these problems, and NASA is spending millions blasting rockets into the moon to see if there is water in the spacedust.

Two things that I use are methyl hydrate and isopropyl alcohol. If you are worried test out diffrent things over something is already painted. Jeff

Not a big fan of badger needle bearings. The badger bearing is just a little teflon tube that is pressed into the bore of the airbrush, and if you press it in too hard the needle starts to stick, and if it's not pressed enough, it leaks. Badger says that they will change the bearing free of charge, but it's not really free because it cost money to have it shipped there. My Iwata needle bearing however, is a screw in type, but hopefully it last awhile as this is not listed in any replacement parts lists.

I recommend that you get a decent gravity feed airbrush, dual or single action. And as far as the switching colors go, changing color cups would be faster but remember that you will have paint remaining inside the airbrush from the previous color. Thats why those guys at the carnivals that airbrush hats usually have a different airbrush for the different colors. For instance, if you just used some black paint, you will ruin whatever color is next. You should always run some laquour thinner or airbrush cleaner thru the air brush after every color in my opinion. I make sure that I only add as much paint that I think I will need to avoid having to pour out the cup to clean it. Even if I know I will need a full cup, I only add 8-10 drops at a time, then run some lacquor thinner thru it, then add some more drops, especially with acrylics, which for me, always seem to dry on the needle rapidly and splatter the paint everywhere. Jeff

Yes also try an arts supply store, they should have airbrush hoses in many different styles if you decide to get one in the future.

Hmmm. I have never seen a campbell compressor with a 1/4 outlet. I uploaded a picture of what I have to give you an idea. The hose and airbrush are compatible, I assume so don't bother with that little brass adapter. That I believe is needed to connect the compressor to a badger airhose. That Central pnuematic airbrush appears to be an Iwata knockoff and not badger. The hose looks like an Iwata style too. But basically, if you can actually get ahold of somebody at harbour freight, try to find out what the thread size of the airhose is. And then find out the threadsize of the outlet of you're compressor. It should be 1/2 inch. Then goto any place that sells compressor parts and get a male-male coupling.

Hey, to chime in. Take a look here. Great deals to be found. http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Garage_Sale.asp Personally. I would choose a gravity feed single action over a dual-action syphon feed. Like a 200 series for example. It might be difficult to learn how to adjust air and paint at the same time. I have been using mine for about three years and I still can't pull back the trigger while keeping it at a constant air flow. Get a good regulator and adjust that as needed. About the coil hose, it will not fit, and if you plan to get a badger or any of the badger knock-offs, get a good quality non-badger hose, like an Iwata style. You will need the adapter too, but you will need that for any airbrush hose. A few more links to get an idea of what I am typing about. http://cgi.ebay.com/6-BRAIDED-AIRBRUSH-HOS...id=p3286.c0.m14 http://cgi.ebay.com/ADAPTOR-COUPLING-REG-F...id=p3286.c0.m14 Jeff

I appreciate all the response. In the meantime, I found this. http://dugnorth.com/blog/2006/12/hobby-kni...-sharpener.html Made by micromark, but the website appears closed. I am sure this is not nessesary if one could find #11 blades in bulk. I know they are available on ebay, but I always prefer to buy locally. One more thing I was wondering is are the stainless #11 blades more durable than the regular steel blades? Jeff

Yeah brother !!!! Thats what the charger should have looked like. The designers really dropped the ball on that one in my opinion. I kinda hoped that after Mercedes bought them, they would have used some of the styling from the c class coupe and made a true 2 door hardtop. But I guess once the accountants get through with it, alot of things get tossed by the wayside. As good as the challenger looks, its now a two door sedan.

Perhaps I don't fully understand the situation but it doesn"t seem like the end of the world. Don't make it more complicated than you have to. Sand only that panel down to bare plastic, prime and paint it again. Actually no need to go bare plastic at all, just feather the area that is already. Mebbe add some putty if you have to. If the paint is cured, apply primer right over the whole panel and then color. No need to paint the entire thing again, unless you mixed a custom color. Just use some thin masking tape along the red line I drew on the picture.

If I may add one more thing. I have found that just rubbing the script with a blunt toothpick does the trick. Also the paint should be rubbed off after applying primer. For example if you have blue over a grey primer, you might see a grey edge between the foil and the blue. And the paint should stick if you use primer. Most of the primers we use are meant for metal and the foil is just thin metal. I do this with any raised edges, like the body trim and drip rail on this impala. If I can manage to rub the the paint off in a fairly straight line, if will give me a clean look that I am after.

Two questions. Has anybody tried sharpening dull #11 blades? Can it be done? Since I switched to using aluminum foil, I am using blades at a horrific rate and I can't seem to find a place locally to buy them in bulk. Also what is the thinnest gauge for steel wire. 32 gauge is the thinnest I have seen. I know they sell 42 gauge copper wire for guitar repairs. But steel would be more preferable. Thanks Jeff

Looks awesome so far. What gauge is that fuel line wire, and where did you get it?

Have you tried mixing sublime green and green go together ?