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Not a big fan of badger needle bearings. The badger bearing is just a little teflon tube that is pressed into the bore of the airbrush, and if you press it in too hard the needle starts to stick, and if it's not pressed enough, it leaks. Badger says that they will change the bearing free of charge, but it's not really free because it cost money to have it shipped there. My Iwata needle bearing however, is a screw in type, but hopefully it last awhile as this is not listed in any replacement parts lists.

I recommend that you get a decent gravity feed airbrush, dual or single action. And as far as the switching colors go, changing color cups would be faster but remember that you will have paint remaining inside the airbrush from the previous color. Thats why those guys at the carnivals that airbrush hats usually have a different airbrush for the different colors. For instance, if you just used some black paint, you will ruin whatever color is next. You should always run some laquour thinner or airbrush cleaner thru the air brush after every color in my opinion. I make sure that I only add as much paint that I think I will need to avoid having to pour out the cup to clean it. Even if I know I will need a full cup, I only add 8-10 drops at a time, then run some lacquor thinner thru it, then add some more drops, especially with acrylics, which for me, always seem to dry on the needle rapidly and splatter the paint everywhere. Jeff

Yes also try an arts supply store, they should have airbrush hoses in many different styles if you decide to get one in the future.

Hmmm. I have never seen a campbell compressor with a 1/4 outlet. I uploaded a picture of what I have to give you an idea. The hose and airbrush are compatible, I assume so don't bother with that little brass adapter. That I believe is needed to connect the compressor to a badger airhose. That Central pnuematic airbrush appears to be an Iwata knockoff and not badger. The hose looks like an Iwata style too. But basically, if you can actually get ahold of somebody at harbour freight, try to find out what the thread size of the airhose is. And then find out the threadsize of the outlet of you're compressor. It should be 1/2 inch. Then goto any place that sells compressor parts and get a male-male coupling.

Hey, to chime in. Take a look here. Great deals to be found. http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Garage_Sale.asp Personally. I would choose a gravity feed single action over a dual-action syphon feed. Like a 200 series for example. It might be difficult to learn how to adjust air and paint at the same time. I have been using mine for about three years and I still can't pull back the trigger while keeping it at a constant air flow. Get a good regulator and adjust that as needed. About the coil hose, it will not fit, and if you plan to get a badger or any of the badger knock-offs, get a good quality non-badger hose, like an Iwata style. You will need the adapter too, but you will need that for any airbrush hose. A few more links to get an idea of what I am typing about. http://cgi.ebay.com/6-BRAIDED-AIRBRUSH-HOS...id=p3286.c0.m14 http://cgi.ebay.com/ADAPTOR-COUPLING-REG-F...id=p3286.c0.m14 Jeff

I appreciate all the response. In the meantime, I found this. http://dugnorth.com/blog/2006/12/hobby-kni...-sharpener.html Made by micromark, but the website appears closed. I am sure this is not nessesary if one could find #11 blades in bulk. I know they are available on ebay, but I always prefer to buy locally. One more thing I was wondering is are the stainless #11 blades more durable than the regular steel blades? Jeff

Yeah brother !!!! Thats what the charger should have looked like. The designers really dropped the ball on that one in my opinion. I kinda hoped that after Mercedes bought them, they would have used some of the styling from the c class coupe and made a true 2 door hardtop. But I guess once the accountants get through with it, alot of things get tossed by the wayside. As good as the challenger looks, its now a two door sedan.

Perhaps I don't fully understand the situation but it doesn"t seem like the end of the world. Don't make it more complicated than you have to. Sand only that panel down to bare plastic, prime and paint it again. Actually no need to go bare plastic at all, just feather the area that is already. Mebbe add some putty if you have to. If the paint is cured, apply primer right over the whole panel and then color. No need to paint the entire thing again, unless you mixed a custom color. Just use some thin masking tape along the red line I drew on the picture.

If I may add one more thing. I have found that just rubbing the script with a blunt toothpick does the trick. Also the paint should be rubbed off after applying primer. For example if you have blue over a grey primer, you might see a grey edge between the foil and the blue. And the paint should stick if you use primer. Most of the primers we use are meant for metal and the foil is just thin metal. I do this with any raised edges, like the body trim and drip rail on this impala. If I can manage to rub the the paint off in a fairly straight line, if will give me a clean look that I am after.

Two questions. Has anybody tried sharpening dull #11 blades? Can it be done? Since I switched to using aluminum foil, I am using blades at a horrific rate and I can't seem to find a place locally to buy them in bulk. Also what is the thinnest gauge for steel wire. 32 gauge is the thinnest I have seen. I know they sell 42 gauge copper wire for guitar repairs. But steel would be more preferable. Thanks Jeff

Looks awesome so far. What gauge is that fuel line wire, and where did you get it?

Have you tried mixing sublime green and green go together ?

What color is it going to be ?

Hodrodasuarus, may I recommend using aluminum foil and foil adhesive. In this way you don't have to worry about conserving foil as one roll with last a decade. And also the foil adhesive will allow overlapping foil to stick to the foil underneath easily. And yes, cut a big piece and use foil the wheel arches in one shot. After you burnish the sides cut a circle following the contour of the arch into the foil or make a series of cuts along the arch before you tuck the foil under the fender. Or it could crease. For the windshield, I cut four little squares for the corners and four long thin parts for the sides.

I use methyl hydrate myself. Seems to do the trick.

For next time, what you could do is glue the wire first, before paint, before anything else. Then paint and simply polish the paint off the metal wire, which will be ever so slightly raised higher.

I think what I would do is just paint the stripes over the plastic. Don't bother painting whats going to be white if its white already, once you paint the stripes, add decals and clearcoat, you or nobody else will know its just the white plastic they see.

Why don't you do this color scheme. It would be easier and it's still correct, I would assume. http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1008/145688...5d4a3b4.jpg?v=0

Is it ok to show some non car related stuff? Did not want to put this is finished works. But something I was working on during winter months.

My ride (73 plymouth)

Can somebody tell me exactly how much difference there is in the engines themselves. I understand that there are all the same displacement, but are the teams free to use whatever types they choose( overhead cams, superchargers ect.)

Awesome job. Only thing I suggest would be to bare metal foil the drip rail. That would be the icing on the icing.

The stuff they used to dissolve the rust is interesting in itself, check the before /after pics, If it isn't photoshopped, its pretty impressive stuff. And yeah, it wouldn't been that bad if the vault had been kept dry. It wasnt only a few feet of water, it was almost completely submerged.

its a 72 plymouth and I was planning on only painting the tanks and the support. I had it re-cored and the person that painted it did a rather shoddy job. Alot runs in the paint. They didn't even take the overflow hose off before they painted it. Its mainly the steel side supports that I want to paint, where they painted over the surface rust and its starting to flake off, but while I am at it, I want to paint the tanks as well. Perhaps I will invest in some high heat paint, can't hurt. Thanks for the advice Jeff

Would anybody know just what kind of paint is ok for a full scale radiator? I have some krylon, but I noticed some high temperature tremclad paint at home depot. Would this be nessecary? Thanks