sak

Perhaps I don't fully understand the situation but it doesn"t seem like the end of the world. Don't make it more complicated than you have to. Sand only that panel down to bare plastic, prime and paint it again. Actually no need to go bare plastic at all, just feather the area that is already. Mebbe add some putty if you have to. If the paint is cured, apply primer right over the whole panel and then color. No need to paint the entire thing again, unless you mixed a custom color. Just use some thin masking tape along the red line I drew on the picture.

If I may add one more thing. I have found that just rubbing the script with a blunt toothpick does the trick. Also the paint should be rubbed off after applying primer. For example if you have blue over a grey primer, you might see a grey edge between the foil and the blue. And the paint should stick if you use primer. Most of the primers we use are meant for metal and the foil is just thin metal. I do this with any raised edges, like the body trim and drip rail on this impala. If I can manage to rub the the paint off in a fairly straight line, if will give me a clean look that I am after.

Two questions. Has anybody tried sharpening dull #11 blades? Can it be done? Since I switched to using aluminum foil, I am using blades at a horrific rate and I can't seem to find a place locally to buy them in bulk. Also what is the thinnest gauge for steel wire. 32 gauge is the thinnest I have seen. I know they sell 42 gauge copper wire for guitar repairs. But steel would be more preferable. Thanks Jeff

Looks awesome so far. What gauge is that fuel line wire, and where did you get it?

Have you tried mixing sublime green and green go together ?

What color is it going to be ?

Hodrodasuarus, may I recommend using aluminum foil and foil adhesive. In this way you don't have to worry about conserving foil as one roll with last a decade. And also the foil adhesive will allow overlapping foil to stick to the foil underneath easily. And yes, cut a big piece and use foil the wheel arches in one shot. After you burnish the sides cut a circle following the contour of the arch into the foil or make a series of cuts along the arch before you tuck the foil under the fender. Or it could crease. For the windshield, I cut four little squares for the corners and four long thin parts for the sides.

I use methyl hydrate myself. Seems to do the trick.

For next time, what you could do is glue the wire first, before paint, before anything else. Then paint and simply polish the paint off the metal wire, which will be ever so slightly raised higher.

I think what I would do is just paint the stripes over the plastic. Don't bother painting whats going to be white if its white already, once you paint the stripes, add decals and clearcoat, you or nobody else will know its just the white plastic they see.

Why don't you do this color scheme. It would be easier and it's still correct, I would assume. http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1008/145688...5d4a3b4.jpg?v=0

Is it ok to show some non car related stuff? Did not want to put this is finished works. But something I was working on during winter months.

My ride (73 plymouth)

Can somebody tell me exactly how much difference there is in the engines themselves. I understand that there are all the same displacement, but are the teams free to use whatever types they choose( overhead cams, superchargers ect.)

Awesome job. Only thing I suggest would be to bare metal foil the drip rail. That would be the icing on the icing.

The stuff they used to dissolve the rust is interesting in itself, check the before /after pics, If it isn't photoshopped, its pretty impressive stuff. And yeah, it wouldn't been that bad if the vault had been kept dry. It wasnt only a few feet of water, it was almost completely submerged.

its a 72 plymouth and I was planning on only painting the tanks and the support. I had it re-cored and the person that painted it did a rather shoddy job. Alot runs in the paint. They didn't even take the overflow hose off before they painted it. Its mainly the steel side supports that I want to paint, where they painted over the surface rust and its starting to flake off, but while I am at it, I want to paint the tanks as well. Perhaps I will invest in some high heat paint, can't hurt. Thanks for the advice Jeff

Would anybody know just what kind of paint is ok for a full scale radiator? I have some krylon, but I noticed some high temperature tremclad paint at home depot. Would this be nessecary? Thanks

That is absolutely stunning, good job.

I have to agree with Harrypri on this one. Although I have no knowledge of Chip Foose original works, I do watch overhauling as much as I can and his methods are quite formulaic and predictable. Not trying to belittle his talents as they are quite formidable, but his approach seems to be to take a vintage car, add a two tone paintjob, wicked wheels and some leather Foose embroidered seats and call it a day. But of course, I would never complain if it was my car that was being used as the canvas. My biggest beef is the celebrity episodes where he fooses cars whos owners actually have the money to pay for his services but are seemingly uninteresting or too preoccupied to have had the car taken in and have the custom work done.

I recently bought a sheet of the new improved bare metal foil. No cracks, and sticks well, but its still garbage in my opinion. It leaves grooves in thin pieces. like a chromed rebar effect, which will not rub smooth. It does not pull evenly from the backing as my guess is that the adhesive is not evenly applicated to the foil. The orange peel that is on most sheets cannot help either. I recommend using tin foil. So far I had good luck with it. Spray some elmers on a small sheet and let it sit in a box, away from dust for a few hours then carve it to the basic shape you want and apply carefully but only burnish down where you want it. seal it with some future around the edges and you should be fine. Save the bare metal foil for small jobs. Jeff

Would anybody happen to know anything about this. Part number DM-2585. Emailed Detail master aboutits dimensions 3 weeks ago and have not gotten an answer. No close up picture on the website. Thanks

"Its looking real good Chris. Keep in mind, this board has lots of nascar haters so you wont get but a lick and a promise!!! " I suppose I am one of those nascar haters, but I cannot deny that this is completely off the hook. Amazing detail and craftsmenship and cannot wait for final product.

Unbeleivable bro. I have to ask, where do you get all that miniature stuff, particularly all those little gears and that stuff of the roof of your painkiller charger?

Oh well, I guess maybe in 2010 it'll get rebranded as the Chevy III. Chevy III is too sixties. They will call it the chevy v3.0