sak

"Its looking real good Chris. Keep in mind, this board has lots of nascar haters so you wont get but a lick and a promise!!! " I suppose I am one of those nascar haters, but I cannot deny that this is completely off the hook. Amazing detail and craftsmenship and cannot wait for final product.

Unbeleivable bro. I have to ask, where do you get all that miniature stuff, particularly all those little gears and that stuff of the roof of your painkiller charger?

Oh well, I guess maybe in 2010 it'll get rebranded as the Chevy III. Chevy III is too sixties. They will call it the chevy v3.0

Not a terribly bad job, but not worth that amount but all the power to him. I would try to do the same. Sidenote, amazing to me nobody that builds this kit notices or attempts to fix the missing trim behind the quarter glass. This trim should continue and wrap a round the curve in the pillar and connect to the trim above the doors.

Not the best of news, but I won't shed any tears. If the future of pontiac was rebranded v8 powered, RWD holdens, there were bound to doomed sooner or later. For every car nut thats demanding these cars, theres probably 5 secretly wanting something that gets 30+miles per gallon. Think people, pice of petrol is never going to go down, its only going to go up,up,up.Pontiac is indeed a historic marque but I am no fan of modern transportation and pontiac is no exception. The pontiacs of today share little in common with the pontiacs of old. Perhaps a nosepeice with a split grille and an orange triangle. If I was to see shaded in silohettes of all the 2008 GM models, other than the solstice, I could not pick out the pontiacs. Altough I do know what a pontiac sunbird looks like because I owned one. Worst car I ever had, done in by a burnt out ignition coil, brillaintly located UNDER the intake manifold, with no protection against road salt and requiring rubber arms to replace. . But basically what I am tryin to say is that this is a sign of the times and If pontiac had any groundbreaking concepts, I sure GM won't let them go to waste and when things improve, who says GM can't bring pontiac back. Hopefully also those pontiac assembly plants will continue to be used for other brands.

Stellar !!! So far everything thing is perfect. That color is by far my favorite. Don't care how much I see it used. Awesome.

My 1:1. 318, 2 barrel. 46,000 original miles. Hopefully, next year I can afford a full repaint. Also planned is a 8 3/4 rear axle. Looks silly as is, front wheels have a wider wheelbase than the back with a 7 1/4 axle. Not sure why Chrysler did this rediculous thing but it was not noticeable until I had wider tires and wheels put on.

Where did you find the gigantic penny?

It is a amt 1966 442 kit. The catch is I don't have the headlight lenses.

I think i have those headlamps buckets from the 442 kit if you need.

The car in the first photo looks like it was painted first in a burgundy, then was placed some chicken wire on top, then sprayed in a lighter shade, then cleared. As for getting the effect of the second car, you would probly need to create decals. Perhaps print a pattern on decal paper and apply one panel at a time.

Outstanding bro !. Excellent work you did. In particular, the bare metal foil on the side vent windows I am most amazed by, I seen this kit at a local flea market but I am too intimidated by all the stainless trim. Jeff

Very cool bro. I wish that there was a thread in these forums for non-automobile related projects. I bought a P-47 thunderbolt at church flea market for 50 cents that I am working on on and off. Nice to not have to worry bout perfect finish for once since the paints required are either flat or semi-gloss. If anything, small imperfections in paint actually add to the model. Again, nice stuff. Jeff

Wow, although I am not a fan of modern muscle cars, that thing is KILLER, and I would be proud to have that one in my display case. If I were you, I would not be concerned will learning, you look like you already got what it takes, if fact you gotta teach me how you keep that photoetch stuff so straight. I can't seem to even get it from the sprue without warping it, let alone filing down the edges. I would love to see some shots under the hood and chassis. jeff

Would anybody happen to know who produces these if any. And if not anybody know any good techniques for using elastic bands. I figure that I might have to cut them to shorten them and glue the ends to a hidden part of the crankshaft pully, but this could get messy. Thanks

I am aghast !! Never seen anything like it. Unbeleivable. But damcranky, if you don't mind me asking. What is the purpose of the first black basecoat?

I would like to see a two-tone. I know testors inca gold is not original, but combined with a off white, like a wimbledon would look off the scale. With perhaps a green or red pinstripe seperating the two colors. Just a thought.

I agree with you juergen. The alcad looks just right if its done right. A lot of people make the mistake of adding too many coats causing it to just look silver. And I find lots of imperfections on the chrome like bad mold lines and pieces of dust trapped under the chrome. Yours will look amazing I know already.

What kind of aluminum? Polished or unpolished? If you are painting a large area, I would recommend biting the bullet and get some alclad polished aluminum. Princess auto sells a badger 150 knock off for under 40 dollars. If unpolished is what you want, I think humbrol aluminum is my favorite.

Bluesman mark hit the nail on the head. Might I add to that cinifriend. You would almost certainly need an airbrush to get a smooth finish. You can find a good one on ebay for under a hundred and they can be used for many things. Or from a rattlecan. Also try thinning the tamiya paints with methyl hydrate instead of water. Also use primer for sure. And wet sand the primer before color coats. I use plastikote myself. Get a few cans, white and black.

It really seams to help if you have kits that have seperate peices for the door panels as most nowadays are. But of course alot of kits still have these one piece tubs. Just get some thin tamiya masking tape and practice masking off areas. If you are doing an older style two tone interior, usually they have some sort of embossed chrome trim in between. Bare metal foil this trim first before any painting, then mask off the different parts, paint them then gently rub the paint off the raised parts with the bare metal foil. And also use semi-gloss paint in its intended to be a vinyl interior or flat and use semi-gloss clearcoat over it.

alclad will rub away but that should not effect most peices like valve covers . The bumpers you have to worry about, but you should not be picking model cars up by the bumpers anyhow. I pick them up by the roof usually as I use bare metal foil for that chrome trim piece and it wont rub off.

I been mostly using acrylics with mine and I take it apart and clean it well after every use. Especially createx, it starts to dry in the cup almost instantly and gums up the needle tip if you dont thin it. Even the ready to use stuff needs to be thinned a little I find. If you use acrylics, and you are not doing a large area, just put in a drop or two of paint in at a time and spray water through it immediatly after its empty. Enamels take longer to dry so that should be alot easier to clean up. What I recommend is spray enamel thinner after you are done until its clean, then take a q-tip and scrub the cup clean. I dont take the needle out but I remove the head and wipe the tip of the needle clean. Then run warm soapy water through it. If theres something in the nozzle, let it sit in thinner for awhile. Lacqours, I dont have much experience with except for alclad, but I would do the same way but use lacqour thinner instead.

Thanks Bredan, but I will have to try your method when I install a new bearing as I have already removed the old one. one. It came out in 2 peices but I am not sure if thats from pushing it out. Either way, it looks very thin at one end. So I removed the bearing, air valve and everything that can be removed. Now everything is closed today for tanksgiving day. Until I can get a new bearing, I was thinking about letting it soak in something. I am not sure what kinda of paint this brush was used for but testors airbrush cleaner seems to take it off with scrubbing. Is it safe to used CSC on it, I would assume degreaser would be safe on real platd parts, and will CSC remove caked on acrylic paint?

Thanks evryone, help is appreciated. I will try to change that needle bearing mr. obsessive. BIg Garry, I am using a 3 gallon compressor, as for the tip, it is not clogged, it was a brand new tip and needle and I was testing with water. So if the tip isnt clogged are there any other places for air to get blocked, I ran the airbrush without the head and air flowed thru that little hole real smooth and still smooth even with the head on.