Andria H

thank you! Am pecking away at this a bit at a time since I usually have 3 or 4 kits and 1 or 2 custom diecast going at once. Of course, that's modeling for you, both the leisurely pace and the multiple projects on the bench.

Thanks! I have some more progress to show. The body has been assembled with Devcon 5-minute epoxy and the standard flathead screw to backfill the center seam from behind it and form an intermediate surface for the J-B Weld SteelStik putty I am getting today to adhere to inside the seam, as well as to solidify the pin joints that hold the rest of the shell together outside of the screw fixture at the firewall. I then used 3M glazing putty to deal with high/low spots in the main casting and hood/bonnet parts, with the latter piece to be made one integrated assembly via Devcon epoxy and J-B steel stick putty and quite a bit of body/fender work. The putty was sanded off until the body surface was smooth to my liking, and once the body and bonnet cure and are sanded/filed/blocked out, they'll get a guide coat of automotive primer-sealer to see if it all looks right. Speaking of which, I still have a great deal to do to those fenders, as well as heating the metal on the fuel tank skirt with a bick lighter and partially annealing it so I can straighten the dented fuel tank skirt like I annealed and reshaped the hinges on the rumble seat lid/backrest to move smooth and in the manner of the real car. The chiffon yellow grille slats and wire wheels are an authentic factory color that I mixed to spec from Apple Barrel craft paint thinned to the consistency of a Vallejo acrylic with Dollar Tree window cleaner solution, allowed to dry thoroughly, and covered in 1980s vintage Testors clear enamel, and the engine wiring harness/magneto is painted with red and brass/bronze tone Sharpie pen. The body has been assembled with Devcon 5-minute epoxy and the standard flathead screw to backfill the center seam from behind it and form an intermediate surface for the J-B Weld SteelStik putty I am getting today to adhere to inside the seam, as well as to solidify the pin joints that hold the rest of the shell together outside of the screw fixture at the firewall. I then used 3M glazing putty to deal with high/low spots in the main casting and hood/bonnet parts, with the latter piece to be made one integrated assembly via Devcon epoxy and J-B steel stick putty and quite a bit of body/fender work. The putty was sanded off until the body surface was smooth to my liking, and once the body and bonnet cure and are sanded/filed/blocked out, they'll get a guide coat of automotive primer-sealer to see if it all looks right. Speaking of which, I still have a great deal to do to those fenders, as well as heating the metal on the fuel tank skirt with a bick lighter and partially annealing it so I can straighten the dented fuel tank skirt like I annealed and reshaped the hinges on the rumble seat lid/backrest to move smooth and in the manner of the real car. The chiffon yellow grille slats and wire wheels are an authentic factory color that I mixed to spec from Apple Barrel craft paint thinned to the consistency of a Vallejo acrylic with Dollar Tree window cleaner solution, allowed to dry thoroughly, and covered in 1980s vintage Testors clear enamel, and the engine wiring harness/magneto is painted with red and brass/bronze tone Sharpie pen. And I added a 6-volt tar top battery to the battery compartment.

Excited for this, the Mountain Goat is one of my favorite kits and I am thrilled to see the wagon roof back. If the plow is back, even better. As for wheels/tires, I never cared for MPC Desert Dogs and would swap those for Revellogram Denman Ground Hawgs converted with a "tube" aka parts box tire inside to be properly directional and use a parts bin Jackman style rim.

This is mostly mockup photos to start with, except for the engine which is largely done. I have a great deal of filing/sanding/prep to do, but I have the basic engine assembly underway, the dashboard well underway with the broken frame on the windshield to be attached to the top of the windowpane with careful application of Devcon quick epoxy (my hands are not steady/quick enough to use superglue very effectively) I scratchbuilt a dashboard for the build from African mahogany craft veneer due to all the decals having long ago perished, & even so, the design of such being more of a toy design than a true model design. Code IM536 Casino Red is the factory color I chose for the build, with Code IM526 Straw for wheel/grille accent, a Black soft top, and front/rear seats in English Saddle with similar color, scratchbuilt side panels & rumble seat carpets, Testors Rubber enamel for the intake manifold and front floormats and probably some other small pieces, and the headlight/taillight lenses etc. will be painted to match factory stock with a 1930 California plate going on the back. Wood floor texture underneath will be painted and drybrushed and washed to have an appropriate texture/color/grain. I will be hand drawing the gauge and switch gear details on the dash plank before I complete the build, which is barely started at this point. Some oil seepage will be added to the suspension, engine, central lubrication system, etc. and the wheel backs will be detailed. And the well under the soft top will be lined with painters' tape and painted/textured in black. Needless to say, I'll be doing a lot more sanding, filling, filing, etc. given the raw ZAMAC castings with slag still attached.

Can't wait to see this back (hopefully) Hope they do a Force 440 Monaco/Coronet coupe body or even a new tool Magnum body and interior for the Dukes/Goon Car/CHP Monaco sedan.

I like this a lot! Great creative use of "greeblies and doodads" from other kits!

thanks Sid. I know Dave Shuklis from reading old moldy model magazines, Rod & Customs & Barris Spotlite Books I found at an estate sale 20 years ago.

This is the venerable Monogram kit in its latest reissue from Revell. The hardtop was warped so I cut the doors down to factory half hard doors and built it "al fresco". The Golden Eagle decals are reserved for a '79 J10 pickup build. I built it with a sealed hood due to issues with the hinge and with the appearance of the engine bay. Bumpers are scratchbuilt basswood planks stained in a Spanish Oak finish. Paint is GM Corporate Blue engine block paint for the Levi bits (copper Sharpie for the rivets) and Rust-oleum Black Knight Metallic for the remainder. I used chalk pastel dust for light weathering.

My Jo-Han 1968 Cadillac Deville convertible.

Great work, I am seeing quite a bit of Bohmann & Schwartz, Howard Darrin and Hayes inspiration in this design, among other great names in 1930s coach building.

excellent work!

Appreciate the warm welcome, and thanks for the compliment on the Jeep!

thank you, I will do so

thanks all!

Picking this up on Monday along with a collection of rebuilder/parts models. Anything at all I need to know about these kits, I would appreciate. It's a 1/22 scale original issue Hubley '30 Packard Eight standard steel roadster. I know more about 3D print or cast resin than I know about ANY kind of raw metal kit like these. But I am passionate about the classics and want to do it justice.

Hi all, I am Andria Howard from Facebook's model car/truck/bike scene. Multiply disabled 36 year old lady from Eugene OR getting into another venue to show & talk the hobby in with less distractions than FB. I am relatively well known on there for my aged/distressed models, my 1/25 junkyard diorama photo backdrop, and my trucks, hot rods, old racers, and old luxury/grand touring cars. Here's a Monogram Jeep CJ7 with Levi interior that I built a bit ago. Looking forward to getting to know the boards and their users and contribute.