Bernard Kron

.In June I completed another Deuce, this time a bare metal highboy roadster based on the Revell kit with extensive modifications, including a 4" z'd rear end and Hemi V8.

Again, thanks to you both for the kind words!

The photos have to be manually and individually posted, but at least I got that done. If I can I'll post more of the project description in small chunks if the system will let me. I think I'm desperately in need of some sort of account reset or something... It seems I can only manually type in new stuff. No copy and pasting of any kind... Grrrrrr.

Here's another photo: And another... And...

Thank you everyone. I'm still having huge problems posting anything of my own on the forums. Indeed, in the past three days I haven't even been able to connect to MCM. It just has timed out. This is my first attempt to post a comment. I'm glad you all like the result of my project, even if I've only been able to post a single picture and a paragraph so far. If I can post this comment, I'll attempt more photo posts. I've messaged Dave Ambrose a couple of times but have gotten no reply. Help!

“Faded Glory” – As-found ’48 Ford Coupe Hot Rod Textures, details and surface finishes that “scale” in miniature have always impressed me. Not that I’m not regularly blown away by spectacularly glossy paint jobs and super-detailing, but building a model that looks “real” and “natural” to the eye is a challenge that I take on from time to time, usually in combination with a project that’s otherwise fairly technically straightforward. As I approached the middle of summer which would see me away from my workbench for a month or more I decided to take on a simple project which I could complete in a few weeks where I would focus on this naturalistic approach to modeling.

Thanks! I'm still trying to get the rest of my post to work.. I think I'll try again now that the thread seems to have been jump started.

LOL! Neato!

xyz123

Problems posting this new topic. I'll try again... “Faded Glory” – As-found ’48 Ford Coupe Hot Rod

Much thanks to you all. Glad you liked it. It's all done know. I'll post the final "beauty shots" Under Glass in a few minutes. In the meantime here are a few details. Thanx to all who followed along.

Nice one Curt!

That's exactly sums it up. Stunning!

Aha! Nice trick!

Here's a Deuce 3-window I did about 5 years ago. I darkened the area across the roof where I inserted a thin strip of styrene so that you can see it. This was nevessary to align the windshield pillars and rear quarter panels. I also cut out the rear window and copped it searately to avoid the tiny "mail slot" rear window had I chopped directly into the middle of the rear window area. The cut lines should be clear there. The result is shown in the photo below.

Nicely done indeed. I've built these with a lowered front end, much in the same way you did. But it's not clear to me how you brought the rear end down. How did you do it. Nice low stance overall.

Thanx you all. Glad you're diggin' it! The motor, chassis and interior are now completed. The Revell Parts Pak Pontiac 421 is finished in a light blue similar to the factory block paint color and suitably weathered to go with the model theme. The Part Pak Tri-Power carb setup doesn’t include an air cleaner for some reason so I used a Tri-Power air cleaner from B-N-L Resins, finished with Molotow chrome and again weathered to match the rest of the car. The headers are re-pops of the Olds capped straight pipes found in the original issue AMT ’29-‘40 Ford Tudor kit. They’re by Ed Fluck at Drag City castings and their flawless finish made chroming them with Molotow easy. Again they have been weathered to suit. The interior is the tuck and roll customized set from the Revell chopped ’48 coupe. It’s finished to complement the body paint and dull-coted. The chrome panel on the dashboard has been weathered. The chassis has the suspension lowered about 3 ½ scale inches all around, at the front by raising the axle spindles, and at the rear by lengthening the spring shackles. The wheels, front and rear, are steelies from the AMT ’49 Ford coupe kit, the rears being the deep-dish reverse pieces to mount a set of whitewall cheater slicks original gotten from the old Polar Lights Carl Casper Undertaker kit. The front pin-walls are from Modelhaus. The difference in tire diameters, front and rear, account for the slight nose down “rubber rake”. Next up is the final trim, bumpers, lights and finish details. I’ll likely have this project wrapped up in the next week or so. Below are some summary photos of the work done since my last update. Thanx for lookin’ B.

Great build. I especially like the graphics. Excellent color chooices and the technique of using a red and yellow fine check pattern to simulate gold works very well indeed.

Last year I picked up a Revell '48 Ford Police Car coupe on sale for 10 bucks. I bought it strictly as a parts kit, for the flathead V8, the wheels and tires, and the stock rear axle. I already had the original issue of the convertible and the chopped custom coupe. My longer term plan is to graft the cowl, door tops and rear deck of the convertible to the chopped coupe main body and build a high-style early 50's full custom. But for now I was looking for simple project I could complete during the month of July before I went away on vacation, and away from my workbench, in August. I decided to do a weathered stock height coupe using the the parts I wasn't saving for other projects. The idea I have is to do an early 60’s street rod in a contemporary “as-found” condition. Restored hot rods with their original unmolested patina are quite the style right now so I decided to do one with a faded paint job, but not a rust bucket. This would be a nice street machine that’s been stored in a garage for the past 40 years or so, so that the paint oxidized but, other than some dirt and minor surface corrosion, it’s quite sound. I wanted to achieve a believable, realistic patina without a lot of heavy handed rust. The result is shown in the photo below. Capturing it photographically was really quite difficult, but I think the pictures will give you an idea. The original color would have been a deep candy or metallic red-violet. Over the years the paint had worn through and faded in various areas, sometimes down to the red primer and even to the metal in spots. There’s also some accumulated dirt showing. I started with a base coat of dark grey primer. The next coat was a color coat of silver metallic to represent the bare metal layer. This was followed by a layer of red oxide primer and then a layer of Dark Toreador Red Metallic which would represent the original color in its current as-found condition. All the paints used were Duplicolor rattle cans. By lightly and carefully wet sanding with 400 grit sandpaper I was able to reveal the red primer and bare metal layers in the appropriate places. This was followed by a very light application of Kosutte Gin San metalizing powder. This gave the paint surfaces a faded, oxidized look and added some sheen to the bare metal spots. I then sparingly applied some black acrylic wash and wiped most of it away by lightly brushing it with tissue paper. This added dirt and grime. The louvered hood is from the chopped coupe kit, a part I won’t be using in the Carson topped kustom I’ll be building. It’s just what’s needed for this old street rod. The chopped coupe kit will also provide the tuck and roll interior. The car will be lowered all around. I dropped the stock height front axle by raising the spindles. The motor will be a Revell Parts Pak Pontiac 421. Most likely with the Tri-Power carburetor setup. With the extra power I’ll be using a nicely detailed resin Pontiac Catalina rear axle I got from Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting. The stance of the car will determine wheel and tire choice and whether it leans to Show or Performance. The chassis will be weathered to go with the body patina. This shouldn’t be a very complex project now that the paint is done. I should be able to update with chassis and motor pics next week. Thanx, for lookin’ B.

I've been having bizarre posting problems with this thread. It wouldn't accept my original text but has allowed the post as a reply. Very weird... Anyway see the next post of the start of this w.i.p. Thanx, B.

I've had this problem for a couple of days now. I get a "404 Error Sorry. We can't seem to find the page you're looking for." I've tried logging off, clearing internet cache, restarting computer, etc. etc. Anyone else getting this.? Any suggestions on a fix. I've contacted the admins but haven't heard back yet. P.S. This post will also function as a test to see if the problem is specific to On The Workbench.

Before wings 'n' things - Race cars done right Part II Frank Costin, the master of streamline Lotus Eleven with full Le Mans fairing: [] The Lister Costin:

Beautiful minimalism (before wings 'n' things) - Jim Clark full chat in the Lotus 25. Hard to beat a race car done right...

A knockout. Great to see you "doin' what you do so well". Now I have a standard to build my next Junior to, except mine will have to be relatively metal-free, LOL! BTW, since this thread took up from a previous start, I meant to ask you about the chassis. The roll cage area, now that it has its padding, looks a lot like it might have had a kit basis. Is the whole chassis made from styrene stock?

Once again, thank you all so much. Among you are some of my favorite modelers. Again, much appreciated!