Bernard Kron

Two weathered old rods:

I always thought this was the ultimate show rod when it was created and the same can be said of this beautifully done scale version. I hunger to see a rolling chassis with all its delicious details, but I suspect you didn't build it that way. No matter, the result is as impactful as one to could ever want. Bravo!

Thanks Dan! Life and other modeling projects have conspired to pull me away from this project for quite some time. But the few weeks of good weather we are afforded each summer here in the Pacific Northwest have finally abated and the modeling bench beckons. This project is relatively straightforward with the notable exceptions of adding the roof and rear cab structure to the aftermarket body and developing and printing the graphics. The bodywork and paint were covered in the last update and I finally was able to get together a set of graphics for the beast. I wanted a name that would be refer somewhat to the inspiration cars, at least in spirit. These Fiat competition coupes are exaggerated, dramatic looking cars, and notorious for their dragstrip antics. Whether it’s Flamin’ Frank, Sudden Death, of the Chicken Coupe, it’s rarely business as usual for these cars. So the entrants for my version are Krazy Eights Racing and the car is the Krazy 8 Koop. The graphic is built around (behind?) the 8-Ball symbol and exaggerated 60’s style cartoon lettering (panel A below). I created a faded paint transition effect from red to gold on the rear deck “tire” area using a red to clear decal. The 8-Ball for the rear deck, body sides and the nose piece are all the same size and created by laying down a white underlayment and a black and clear 8-Ball figure (panel B). The actual lettering will be gold and I will need to have it printed by a friend who has an ALPS printer that can print metallic ink to clear decal stock (panel C). Once the gold lettering is applied I’ll add additional trade decals and then clear coat the whole thing. The only other thing I’ll have to wait on before final assembly will be a set of true-wire front wheels that a friend of mine has in development. Thanx for lookin’, B.

The end of the summer usually brings lots of activity on the personal front. The rainy Northwest puts a premium on the sunny months so we tend to take our vacations in the early Fall when we’ve been able to take full advantage of the relatively brief window of favorable weather the region affords us. So, after spending September on vacation and inevitably recovering from it, I’ve been able to get back to the several modeling projects I have going. In the case of the Revell Trophy Series Deuce Roadster I have been able to get the body work completed and painted (in the Duplicolor Bahama Blue mentioned earlier) and the interior painted and trimmed out. I also completed the decals work and have received the parts I needed to complete the motor. After scanning the original AMT decals I used a set of Revell ’32 Ford 5-window Coupe flame decals as a reference to re-scale the AMT decals so they fit the Revell parts. The Revell grill shell is slightly larger and differently proportioned than the AMT piece so the grill panel needed some minor stretching to fit. In the case of the side flames, the AMT box art is massively larger than the actual kit decals. The flames extend all the way back to the rear wheel wells. This meant stretching the side flames some 30% longer than the originals. In addition, the lower edge of the AMT body sides curves upwards so that the edge of the firewall area is quite short. Combined with the slightly larger overall size of the Revell main body meant that the height of the side flames was increased by close to 20%. Because these 2 size increases are roughly proportional with the original AMT design the distortion is not very apparent. The cowl flames also needed some minor stretching to fit. Since I’m using the original AMT cycle fenders the design of the fender flames remained untouched. The Bahama Blue is a relatively dark color. The transparency of decals printed using an inkjet printer, as I would if I printed my own decals, means that I would have to use a white underlayment. But the flames are too intricate to cut out a white layer by hand. The white needs to be printed to a clear substrate, so I will have to have the decals printed by a friend who has an ALPS printer that can print white to clear. I’ve prepared the artwork and having the decals done is next on my list. In the meantime I’ll build up the motor and chassis and test fit everything in anticipation of final assembly. Once the decals are done and applied it will be time for clear coat and polish and then completion. Below is a composite photo, showing the work done since my last post, including the decal master art, the interior and the basic paint. Thanx for lookin’, B

This is something I've often thought about starting - and I can't think of anyone better to take it on! It's interesting to note the difference in timeline/perspective that each modeler will bring to a project. Speed Racer (or Mach GoGoGo) was first introduced in 1966, by which time details such as you have included (wider tires, flares, braced roll bar, GT40 style wheels) would have been very much the standard of the age. But in the comic and cartoons the cars are kind of a throwback, something of an exaggerated, stylized version of late 50's pontoon-fendered front engine road racers along the lines of Ferrari TRs and Listers or, more specifically, the Sadler Mk. II and the Corvette SS. So when I have thought about doing one I have thought of doing it with narrower tires, no flares, and minimalist rollover protection. One thing for sure, flipping the headlight position is genius in its simplicity - one of those breakthrough insights that has never occurred to me but is "obvious" once its shown to you! Bravo! Build On, Art! PS - Speaking of The Spirit of Speed, one thought I had regarding doing it in an earlier style was to do one inspired but the great Stan Mott's iconic Pignatelli, cashing in on the already over-the-top body shape.

Hot rods are mostly what I build so I'll try and be selective... Fords a-many: 25 T 27 T's, hi and lo 29 roadsters And several Deuces, hi and lo

These came in the mail today from Shapeways - gorgeous 1/25th scale Stromberg 97s by Maple Leaf Modelworks ( https://www.shapeways.com/shops/maple-leaf-modelworks?section=1%2F25+Hot+Rod+Parts&s=0 ) by Chris Drysdale (spex84). I just had to hit 'em with some Tamiya X-31 Titan Gold and grab a quick snapshot. Aren't they nice?

Thanks Gary!

I really enjoyed following your w.i.p.. The follow through with the graphics is what nailed it for me. It really captures your vision and gives the finished product a believability that's one if its greatest strengths. Bravo! The silver and red combo and the purity and simplicity of the design reminded me of the various small-displacement Fiat Abarth record cars of the late 50's and early 60's.

Thanks for the pics Dave. I see that the carbs could stand to be bigger and mounted lower down to the blower and the stacks should be reversed to face rearwards. Also the bend in the exhaust pipes starts earlier in the AMT set than the ones I've used. I did scratch build a set of weed burners for a drag build so I'll have to think about scratching some for this project. I have to keep reminding myself that it will never be an exact replica... But again, since I don't have these early kits myself these pictures are invaluable. Much appreciated. The weed burners I built:

I’ve rarely had a modeling project flow as easily as this on seems to. Admittedly it doesn’t involve a lot of extensive bodywork but even so, parts I’ve bought or been given seem to be arriving faster than normal, fabrication is going along within fewer than my usual quota of glitches and snags, and I seem to be guessing right about kit bashing choices more often than not. Of course I haven’t gotten to final bodywork and paint yet so I shouldn’t count my chickens… In a departure from my usual habit I’m resisting painting anything before I’ve test fitted the whole model. So it’s currently an endless display of raw plastic and blue masking tape. But I’ve often admired the results that some of my favorite builders get by adopting this discipline. Hopefully a little of that skill will rub off on me! With things going as well as they are I’ve decided to more closely follow the details of the AMT version where I can. In keeping with this I decided to convert the Revell chassis to the buggy spring style rear suspension of the AMT Deuce. I removed the rear crossmember and substituted a Revellogram ’37 Ford Truck crossmember, spring and rear axle. The axle and spring were narrowed and new spring mounts fabricated to lower the rear suspension to the same stance as the Revell setup. It turns out that it won’t be necessary to cut down the grill to get it to align with the cowl of the channeled body. Surprisingly, after lowering the grill shell the 6 scale inches of the channel job there is still ample ground clearance. Part of my current run of luck… As called out in my first post, the box art includes un-boxed frame horns, so, with a little .125 x.015 styrene strip if fabricated that particular detail. Conveniently, the Rat Roadster version of the Revell Deuce frame has the outer surfaces of the frame horns already smoothed and filled in, rather than having the indentations for the bumper mounts found on the full fendered Sedan and Coupe kits. The motor is largely built up now. I adapted the GMC 471 blower from the Revell Beatnik Bandit kit. The blower drive is, unfortunately, an AMT part, a chain drive from a’’29/’40 Ford Tudor kit. I chose it because it’s appropriate for the 1959 vintage of the AMT Deuce Roadster Trophy Series kit. The carburetion is currently mocked up using the rather blobilicious AMT triple “Strombergs” from the same Tudor kit. I’m not happy with the crude look. It’s not in keeping with the spirit of the Revell-based modern detail of the project. I’ll probably go with some more accurate modern ‘97’s and rework the manifold while I’m at it. The intake stacks were cut from aluminum tubing and will be smoothed out and polished. The exhaust pipes are from, of all things, a Revell 427 Ford Parts Pak. I had thought of fabricating my own exhausts but the fit and look of these pipes are true to the box art, to my eyes at least. A little more work on the steering and suspension as well as the aforementioned carburetion, and it should be time for bodywork and paint. With the grill shell remaining unmodified re-scaling the decals to fit the Revell proportions should be pretty fairly simple. Fingers crossed that things continue on the straight and narrow… Thanx for lookin’, B.

Thanks for the comments, guys. Alan, I think once the grill and motor are in place the proportions will be spot on. Indeed, the axle I'm using is from the Monogram '40 Ford Pickup and is in fact reversed with the axle in front of the spring, so I always have that option waiting for me. But I need to remind myself that the artist's impression is itself quite distorted and, in addition, the Revell body and chassis are different in size, shape and proportions to the AMT items. My hope is to somehow split the difference between realism/accuracy and the wonderful "atmosphere" of the artist's illustration. Tom, I have a 4-71 from the Roth Beatnik Bandit that I'll be using. It will be period correct, contribute a smaller proportioned blower, and should accommodate the triple 97's with the addition of fabricated manifold. Here's one I built a few years back for a '40 Ford coupe I built.

Over the past two days I got some of the critical parts in. I was able to get a set of original issue AMT Trophy Series 32 Ford Roadster cycle fenders. Also the original issue decals for me to scan came in. After scanning them I cleaned up the images, touched things up and also made black versions of the pinstripes so I can print them on my inkjet if I ever need to. I'll run off some extra copies and get them bacl, along with the origal pronto. In the meantime more progress is being made. The interior is done and ready for detailing and paint. I cut out the Revell dashboard, installed a blank face. Now it's ready for the photo-etch 7 gauge dash panel. As mentioned I'm using a '48 Ford steering wheel. With the arrival of the fenders I've been able to finish the initial mockup of the body and chassis. I also filled in the door handle holes and made the small rear roll pan. It's pretty close to the box art, even in glaring white plastic and black fenders. If I can hide the rear suspension under the body I'll probably keep the Revell setup in the interests of keep this project simple and on track. That's it for now. Next up will be the motor. Thanks for lookin', B.

AMT Trophy Series '40 Ford Tudor

Thanks Dave! Since you can't see the valve covers in the box art I'll go with the DeSoto covers (I missed noticing that) - you could argue that being from a long departed marque they have a greater cool factor... I have a set of the original decals being lent to me to scan, but if that doesn't work out I'll keep you in mind - Thanks! Depending on how much towards realism the project evolves to, I might cut my own exhaust stacks and use higher detailed 97's. And, in late breaking news, I have a set of the gennie first issue fenders coming my way so I'll be getting to the stance and proportion issues sooner than I thought! In the meantime I'll get started on the rolled pan and paint prep on the main body. Oh, I just won a Revell Beatnik Bandit, so I'll be be checking out the possible use of a 471 to capture some of the smallness of the box art blower...

Thank you everyone! I seem to be moving through this project at a rapid pace. Things are falling into place much more quickly than I had anticipated. I’ve decided to use the Stacey David Rat Roaster version of the Revell Deuce. This is because, along with the stock style firewall which I’ll need, I can attend to some of the specialized modifications that Revell made to the original ’32 Ford Highboy release in order to make the contemporary Stacey David variant. This includes the notched frame rails to mount the exhaust system and the small extensions to the rear valance to surround the gas tank (see D below). The body channel will hide the frame notches, although I plan to fill them in nonetheless. As for the small rear extensions, they will form the ends of a subtle rolled pan I’ll fabricate. Along with the inset rear license plate mount of the Rat Roadster version, it should make for a tasteful period detail - one that’s not shown in the box art, LOL. After removing the gas tank I shortened the rear frame end and set the initial channel (see C below). It’s 6 scale inches, about the depth of the chassis rails at their deepest point. For the moment I haven’t Z’d the frame. I need to fill the real wheel wells, install the cycle fenders and rough in the front and rear suspension to see where I’m at with the stance. With the rolling stock already chosen, this will determine whether or not a Z is required at the rear. With the basic channel set, I was able to tackle the interior. The interior floor, rear and side panels and dashboard surround are all from the basic Revell 1/25th Deuce Roadster kits (pre-Rat Roaster). I removed ¼” from the rear and side panels to accommodate the channel job. The Revell Deuce Highboy dash panel, with its cassette player and air conditioning vents, will be removed and a new piece fabricated featuring a 7-gauge P/E piece courtesy of Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland. I also plan to use a 50’s style steering wheel, perhaps the one from a Revell ’48 Ford. The seat is fabricated from a Revell ’32 Ford Tudor Sedan rear seat in an attempt to make a piece that resembles the simple vertical rolls of the seat in the AMT kit. It’s not a perfect match, but then nothing about this version will be. It’s roughed into place for the moment and still needs some fine tuning but it will do the job, I think (see A and B below). The decals will have to be re-scaled and distorted to fit the Revell parts and to reflect the box art. For this reason I’m borrowing a set of the original decals to scan and then redraw for this application. A couple of key visual elements of the box art are the boxy, close-coupled proportions and the shiny chrome plated domed wheel covers (the latter a styling element largely unique to early AMT Trophy Series models). Dennis Lacey suggested using the slightly taller wheels and tires from the Revell ’48 Ford kits in order to get closer to the proportions of the box art. As it turned out, although they are AMT parts, the chromed wheel covers from the AMT Doubled Dragster kit are a perfect fit to the Revell ’48 Ford wheels. So the rolling stock in now looked in (see center inset of the photo above). The cycle fenders, of course, are another important detail. I don’t have an original release (#132) Trophy Series AMT kit, or indeed, the 5-window version, both of which came with the cycle fenders shown in the box art. They are simple, smooth semi-circular examples proportioned to fit the kit AMT tires. The only AMT cycle fenders I do have are a set from the AMT 25T double kit. They are quite different from the Deuce fenders. The Deuce rear fenders, for example, are mounted with pegs that you glue to the body, within the wheel wells. The 25T rears use struts designed to mount to the brake backing plates, similar to the front fenders. The 25T fenders also have a molding down the middle of the fender tops, whereas the Deuce fenders are smooth. I can modify my 25T fenders to suit but I’d love to locate a set of the originals. Happily, either AMT cycle fenders will fit the rolling stock I’ve chosen. Below is a comparison of the two, the 25T style on the left on a ’34 Ford I built many years ago, and the genuine Deuce items as shown on Mr. Moto’s (Manuel J. Martinez_ excellent box art build I’m using as a reference. Some of the mechanical bits have also been chosen and set aside. The Hemi will come from the Revell Deuce 5-window coupe. I haven’t determined the supercharger setup as yet. The stock Chrysler valve covers will have to be AMT, I’m afraid, since I haven’t got a Revell piece to suit. The AMT ’53 Ford Pickup has a set that fit perfectly. I found a deep drop I-beam axle in my spare parts box that looks like it came from a Monogram ’40 Ford Pickup kit and will be ideal for this application. For the moment I’m intending to stick with the stock Revell rear suspension since it will be hidden under the channeled body. After all it’s all about the box art… Things are moving along quite nicely, much to my surprise. I still need to determine whether to modify the ‘25T cycle fenders or try to score the genuine AMT Deuce Roadster items. Only then can I determine the rear frame and suspension setup, so I have to decide very soon! Thanks for lookin’, B.

I agree! I've started a box art build of this illustration, except I'm using a Revell 1/25th Deuce Roadster to do it.. While researching it I came upon your fine rendition of the original AMT version. I am using it as a reference to help me understand the differences I'll have to deal with.

This project will be a box art build with a twist. I’ve always admired the blue channeled roadster on the top of the original-release AMT Trophy Series ’32 Ford Roadster kit. But I’ve always preferred the more accurate body and better chassis details of the Revell 1/25th Deuces. So it was natural for me to imagine someday building the AMT box art using the Revell roadster kit as my basis. Now I’m going for it. One of fascinating things about classic box art that makes it so effective is the liberties the artists took with their illustrations. These are truly idealized, impressionistic renderings, rather than strict photorealistic depictions of the completed model. So in this example the little Deuce roadster looks remarkably close-coupled with a tough, tight stance. Some details are missing entirely, such as the headlight mounts. The GMC 671 blower and the carbs are absurdly undersized. The front end has a deep drop front axle which is missing entirely from the kit. And yet the overall look is totally “right” to my eyes. It begs to be modeled in a more accurately detailed version taking advantage of the modern Revell kits, while still, somehow, retaining the cool factor of the artist’s vision in the box art. That’s my goal. Below is a call-out of some of the details I’ll be watching out for as I build it. For those who might be interested, there was an excellent box art build of the AMT kit posted here on the MVM board by Mr. Moto last year (see [a href="http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/123803-amt-32-ford-roadster-1959-box-art-build/"]AMT Trophy Series Deuce Roadster Box Art Build[/a] ). I’ll be using that build as a guide as to what can or can’t be done while trying to use zero AMT parts and sticking with relatively accurate modern kit parts for the various elements. I think this should be great fun. Thanx for lookin', B.

I'm not a big muscle car fan like so many American auto enthusiasts are, but muscle cars dominate virtually all aspects of American car culture so I think that the CarTech editors got it right to target their second book to this segment - and for sure to keep it far, far away from the hobbies and crafts section! Frankly I'm a bit surprised that the show car kit book did well enough to encourage them to go for a second book. Perhaps there, too, they targeted the Transportation category by packaging it as a hot rod and customs book. In any case I find it worth noting that you dedicated so many early chapters to early model car history before getting to the meat of your subject. That alone will ensure I get a copy. I only wish that your Golden Age project had found a publisher since I can think of few other authors better equipped in both historical knowledge and editorial and writing skills to tackle the task.

Thanks Bob! The basic paint is done. Tamaya Clear Red over gold flake as explained in the last post, with the stripes, spare tire area and nose scallop picked out with masking tape. Next up, and critical to the whole effect is the graphics design which will require, among other things, naming the darn thing. But the basic paint went down with surprisingly little drama. The usual summary picture is below. Thanx for lookin', B.

Yep, that's right exactly. I need to get down to Portland again. Has got to be some of the best quality of life in the USA. I used to live there many moons ago. The last time I made it down to the annual model car show I used to go to there has got to be 5-6 years ago.

Surprisingly high number of quality cars in this little show at a strip mall in my neighborhood here in Seattle. Here's a link to lots more pictures: Wedgwood Neighborhood Car Show - 2018

I just received the following e-mail from Modelhaus. As the e-mail says the old Modelhaus site remains closed until Saturday when you can place orders on whatever they have to offer. In an incredible leap into the 21st century, if you go to Modelhaustires.com, you'll see actual photos although for now everything is marked Sold Out. Stay tuned...

Each year a group of vintage car buffs from the greater Seattle area set out on a road trip down to the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance. They usually leave on a Tuesday allowing for about 150 miles a day, which is plenty ambitious for some of the fine old iron that makes the journey each. There's always a surprisingly wide array of cars that go and it's nice to get up early and join them after they have met for breakdast and see them all off. Here's this year's selection: