Bernard Kron

I'll be there as I have for the past several years, hanging with my buddies Raul Perez and Curt Raitz. Who else plans on being there. Revell will be there showing some of their 2016 releases.

The approach Gene Haas is taking is totally rational, and as a result, somewhat unexciting. He's spent the time and energy to build strong relationships with premier suppliers so he can hit the ground running as a second-tier team with a decent chance of garnering a few points, and the resulting millions of dollars and commercial advantages in subsequent years that they bring. He's signed two hungry, experienced drivers, one of which, at least, is talented enough to win races. Both drivers will be invaluable during the development phase. Like I said, not very exciting but it augurs well that the team will survive past its first couple of seasons. Gene Haas wants to take Haas Automation global, and perhaps even parlay it into a suite of automotive-related companies built around his racing expertise. He already has relationships and operations that would permit him to do it. But the critical test will be when they must face what it takes to be a championship winning team. Will Haas have the fire in the belly to risk the commercial and financial costs of a Red Bull operation, for example? Dietrich Mateschitz built Red Bull into arguably the last championship winning team which might be considered a "privateer" in the sense that they are not an automobile manufacturer, or, for that matter, an industry consultant in the way that Williams operates. To do it Mateschitz had to spend staggering sums of money. Haas wants to parlay his NASCAR experience and plant in a business-savvy, financially prudent (can we say that about an F1 operation?) way to launch his operation. But F1 isn't NASCAR, which is basically a silhouette formula using cookie cutter cars and a spec chassis. As hard as F1 is trying to destroy itself it could well be one of few remaining non-spec car racing series. But Haas is treating it as if it were. At some point he will have to choose. Dallara will not risk its commercial operation for an F1 championship, but Gene Haas will have to if he wants one bad enough. I think Haas knows this. But that's not for now. For now he's doing all the right things to get started. I wish him good fortune and will be following with interest.

It looks like it might be a photo of the model (retouched of course...), so their might be hope. The wheels and tires appear decent and the motor doesn't look too horrible.

Thanks guys! I did a weathering dry run on some scrap to test the look of the red chassis and wheels and it came out OK. I'll try and post wheels and frame in the next coupla days. Vince, that's great news. I always wondered why they only showed there stuff in the East and hadn't found a way to participate in the Western shows. I'll be sure to spread the word since I'm certain there'll be modelers who'll want to come to check it out.

The NNL West this year is on March 12th and one of the two theme tables will feature Rat Rods. That means this project needs to be completed within the next 4 weeks, so I’m trying to keep it simple. Of course almost everything about it is either kit bashed or scratch built, but much of the more challenging stuff has already progressed a bit so I think I’ve got a shot at it. Anyway, it’s virtually a tradition with me to have a last minute thrash to get something done for the NNL West each year. The basis for the build is the modified Ala Kart body included in the later series re-issues of the AMT ’29 Ford Model A roadster kits. This body lacks the hump in the middle of the cowl included in the genuine Ala Kart shell, so it can pass for a kind of cross between a Model A RPU and a T-bucket. I suspect this will be the shell you’ll find in the upcoming Mod Rod re-release from Round 2, as well. I’ll use the Ala Kart windshield and dashboard, too. This is the kit I got the parts from: The only other source kit used to any degree is the AMT ’34 Ford 5-window coupe kit, which provided the Kelsey Hayes style wire wheels and the skinny front tires, as well as the rear axle. The rear tires are from the Revell ‘40 Ford Standard kit, adapted to fit the AMT wires. The front axle is from a Monogram ’37 Ford Panel Delivery Van, heated at both ends to create a dropped axle. Otherwise most all the other parts will come from the proverbial parts box, which is to say their origin remains somewhat vague. This includes the rear cross member and buggy spring and the eventual motor for the car which will be a nearly stock small block Chevy with plain stock valve covers, a single four barrel carb and basic air filter, with only a set of resin lakes-style exhausts sourced off of eBay, to hint at any hop up. The door decals are homemade and the white lettering was achieved by printing to white decal paper on a purple background to match the purple Krylon paint on the body shell. The main body was weathered using weathering powders and Testors DullCote. The chassis is scratch built with an AMT Ala Kart cross member and ’29 Ford rear cross member. I scratch built a gas tank out of styrene stock sanded to shape. The back of the tank is curved to conform to the shape of the main body. It will be painted body color with weathered chrome straps across the ends and towards the middle. The wheels and frame will most likely be finished in weathered matte metallic rust red. Below are pictures of where I’m at so far. Updates should come thick and fast since time is tight. Thanx for lookin’, B.

I get the impression that the Holthauses are being very deliberate and linear in the way they are approaching things. Facing the fact that they were getting burned out after so many years of creative and commercial importance and success to a culture and hobby to which they have had such a strong connection, they chose to continue on in the way they always have and then end it. I have no way of knowing, but perhaps they were relying on a family member or close friend to take over the business, but that certainly isn't the case now. What has been obvious all along is that they concentrated almost all activities between the two of them. Delegation and expansion was not part of their business plan, at least in the few years I've been in this hobby. For a small business this can be a wise course to take because growth of plant and staff increases overhead and risk and too often can lead to bankruptcy. In fairness to their customers and to their culture they announced their closing well in advance. If they do sell the business, I suspect it's something they will deal with late in the process. Right now their approach is to remain focused on operating in the manner they have always done and dealing with "the monster" they have created by announcing their impending retirement. I'm guessing negotiating for the sale of the business would just get in the way at this point. They have all they can handle just filling the ever-growing backlog of orders as the market hoards their products in anticipation of their disappearance. Another issue to consider is that the Modelhaus catalog is enormous and probably largely maintained and operated on a "personal knowledge" basis. Unless the Holthauses were retained as consultants during a transition it would be a daunting task to take it over. It will take a true professional to get value out of what they created. Hopefully good fortune will smile on both the Holthauses and our hobby and such a professional owner will materialize.

Some ,nice completed models on here. I particularly like the detail of including mounting holes for trim that's been removed and has yet to be reinstalled. Something I'll have to try in future primer builds. One thing I'/ve done in the past is to do cars in tinted primer, a ,common interim paint job approach seen in the early fifties. I did a Revell Merc in purple that was done that way a few years back. I missed this thread when it was first posted. I've finished a couple of primer rods since this was first posted, mainly for a similar CPB on the TRaK forum. So here they are. '49 Ford: '32 Ford 5-window:

Well I guess I must be The Idiot for what I wrote, LOL... But really they are so highly regarded, their products so well appreciated, that surely there's a sizable and important business to be sold to a serious professional to supply Modelhaus products to the hobby, and hopefully provide the Holthauses with a tidy retirement kitty. Certainly the past several years have been increasingly difficult for them and they are no doubt at the point of exhaustion. Their 2/13 message that Jeff posted above clearly shows how they feel and it must be respected. Fingers crossed for the hobby that they make it through the difficult months to come and that somebody steps up to take up what they so successfully created. If someone does it will no doubt be a great relief to them. Unfortunately, we can inevitably anticipate similar situations with other highly regarded aftermarket specialists. So let's support them and enjoy them while we all can.

Very shortsighted of them. They should at least be in a position to accept new orders, however long may be the delay. They'll only get buried again later until they either shut the business down or sell it. Or they'll decide to carry on and not retire, in which case sales will return to "normal" levels. For now they are highly regarded and customers will seek to hoard while they can.

I missed that in the blizzard of richly deserved compliments. They look very convincing. Someone should make resin repops of them. I would probably go back and retrofit a ton of my older builds with them. Lunchbox latches and a Deuce louvered hood to match the side panels and deck of the Revell cars are my holy grails in the aftermarket.

Wonderful! It looks especially convincing in black and white! So....how on earth did you do the lunchbox latches on the hood??????? (Blowing up your pictures lthey look like either p/e pieces or like they were lifted from another part and grafted in place...)

Looks great Phil!

Thanks Dan. This is now completed and the final assembled car is shown Under Glass.

Thank you all. This was a great experience. The rust and dirt just seemed to come flowing out of the weathering powders. Learning about applying the powders both wet and dry, "wet " meaning over a surface wetted with isopropyl alcohol, and "dry" meaning dusting it on a dry surface with a soft, dry bush, was the critical thing. Also, using a soft tissue or cloth to remove pigment where it wasn't working right was important. Much of this was learned from viewing military modelers applying weathering to their subjects on YouTube. The salt technique was very well covered on YouTube by Dr. Cranky. As Dr. Cranky pointed out, the first time you try it you'll apply the salt over more areas than you might have wanted to, which in this case led to the heavily rusted look. The textured corroded areas created then act like magnets for the weathering powder. Eventually you learn to pinpoint where you want your corrosion. I've since started my actual; NNL West model which has far less rust, but much more strategically placed, ,which I hope will ,give it more impact. Even on this one, as I moved on to the chassis and motor I learned to more accurately control where I wanted my weathering. Very cool stuff! Thanks again for all the kind words. I'm glad you all enjoyed it!

Your boss must delighted. Really handsome and immaculately turned out. Great fabrication work on the back half. Also, I'm curious about the decals. Is the "Coit" in gold or yellow? And how did you do the white portions? Did you print your decals on white stock with black edges? Or do you actually have a printer that prints white?

I check in on this thread regularly because not only do I like the paintings, but because it's such a pleasure to see an artist evolve, and it's very rare to see someone's work change from such an early stage. The truck above is, IMHO, your best work thus far. You're starting to "own" your style and your draftmanship and control over line and form is progressing dramatically in your most recent work. I suspect in another year or two what you'll be doing will be almost unrecognizable from even this most recent painting, such is the rate at which your now exploring your options and developing your technique. Thanks for sharing this all with us!

‘41 Plymouth Gasser Barn Find My first “deep weathered” project, done to gain experience in using the salt technique for corrosion and weathering powders for color and detail. This year’s NNL West (March 12th in Santa Clara, California) has as one of its 2 featured themes Rat Rods. I want to do a car for this so it was time to get friendly with Mr. Rust. The basic kit was the AMT ’41 Ford Kit. The Gasser part was done by using the gasser front axle and spring from the AMT ’32 Ford Phaeton. The extra power was provided by using a finned head for the (rather obscure) Chrysler Corp. P-series flathead six. The carburetion was achieved by scratched building a manifold for a triple set of Stromberg 97’s. Other than that it’s pretty much out of the box. Here are the details and more pictures. Thanx for lookin’, B. Chassis and suspension: Kit 1941 Plymouth chassis and rear suspension. Front suspension is the tubular straight gasser axle and transverse leaf spring from the AMT 1932 Ford Phaeton kit. All other parts from the ’41 Plymouth kit. Wheels and tires: AMT Firestone front tires and Goodyear slicks from any AMT kit you’d care to think of. Hand painted sidewalls using Tamiya acrylic white. Front steelies from AMT ’37 Chevy kit, rear reversed offset steelies are NASCAR deep dish items courtesy of Performance Plastics. Motor and transmission: Basic motor and transmission from the kit. Scratch built finned log manifold. Triple Stromberg 97’s courtesy of the late Ron Royston at Early Years Resin. Exhaust manifold from the Plymouth wedge head V8 in the kit, adapted to fit the flathead six. Paint and finishes: Underlying paint is Duplicolor Red Primer and Duplicolor Hampsted Green Metallic. Special thanks for advice on the salt technique to simulate body corrosion courtesy of countless military modelers and to Virgil Suarez (Dr. Cranky) on YouTube. Weathering powders are dirt and two shades of rust courtesy of Bragdon Enterprises and Raul Perez (Thanx Raul!).

Thanx guys! I thought I’d snap some pictures of the chassis before it got covered up. I’m happy with how the front of the end and the engine compartment came out. Much of it will disappear under the bodywork unfortunately. I should be able to do a formal shoot of the completed car in the next day or two. Thanx to you all for following along and for your interest and comments. B.

I got the engine finished and weathered. The triple Stromberg 97’s are from my stash of resin pieces by the late Ron Royston at Early Years Resin. The “doghouse” over them is a strip of styrene finished in Testors Metalizer paint and the pre-wired resin magneto is by Morgan Automotive Detail, adapted to fit the molded in kit distributor drive. For those who are curious, the Chrysler Corp. P series flathead sixes had the inner 4 exhaust ports siamesed in pairs which makes the exhaust layout look like a 4 banger. The intake ports were siamesed in pairs which explains the carburetor layout. As mentioned earlier the intake manifold is scratch built and the exhaust manifold is from the kit, it’s one side of the wedge V8 pair, bent to fit the six’s exhaust layout. I’m on the home stretch now and should be done soon… Thanx for lookin;, B.

Yes, nice save. I would love to know more about this kit and its history. I assume it's a curbside but just the exposed portion of the birdcage would be a tour de force of kit design. Doing it justice, as you have, must be very satisfying.

It could be an advertising shoot. Although the rights to use it explicitly requires serious $$$$$. I assume Zemeckis and company copyrighted the image of the tricked out DeLorean. Chris Lloyd (Doc) has been in the press recently saying he would do another BTTF in a heartbeat if it was with the same team.

Actually, the teams run the same frames sold to the public. Make-up weight is primarily in ballast-like areas like axles, seat frames, handlebar thickness, etc. Structural failures are fairly rare these days. In the 1970s when the first carbon fiber frames were being tested structural failures were endemic and fractures due to cracking from gravel impact, for example., was a constant threat. As layups of carbon went from being unidirectional to today's sophisticated patterns this went away. I'm sure there's a limit to how light a bike can be made and still hold up, particularly in top end competition, but the current weight limit is far from there. probably on the order of 2-3 kg. That's why the motors would be a hard sell for the pros due to their weight, etc. if the limit was lowered or done away with and a certification program substituted.

Actually, I think it's time to do away with the minimum weight, or at least lower it drastically. It would make the team bikes more technically in synch with what's already available to well healed enthusiasts.

Tree House Studio Clear Acrylic High Gloss Coating @‌ Hobby Lobby

Yeah. I used to use the Microcale stuff, applying it with a broad, soft brush. It worked fine. Recently I switched to a craft store clear acrylic in a spray can. Far more even in its coating properties, allowing for a somewhat thinner decal thickness. I suspect your aerosol urethane should work every bit as well. One trick to use in order to conserve decal paper, which can be expensive, is to put a cut line above and below the area that will be printed.Cut your strip of decal and only then spray your sealer coat. This will allow you to gradually use up your sheet of decal paper in a systematic way. In this case I had about 5 inches of vertical height left on my decal stock. After cutting the strip I need I'll still have about 4 inches of paper left to use.