Bernard Kron

It was down briefly this afternoon. I had used it this AM. It's back up now.

I guess I've messed with all the generally available kits. Here are my comments on them and some examples of what I've done with them. Revell Tony Nancy Double Dragster Kit: The classic with an awesome array of parts. The only downside is that both engines, while beautifully turned out, are oddball as far as the vast majority of 60's FED's are concerned : Buick Nailhead and Plymouth Wedgehead. Also, it's an early 60's release when the wheelbases were still quite short. When I was a kid, in order to keep up with the rapidly lengthening wheelbases I actually combined both chasis from the kit to get a proper length for what was showing up in the magazines! Other than that virtually all the other details are very nicely turned out and, as I said, it's the ultimate parts kit. The front wheels are the best plastic wires out there IMHO. Very importantly, in my view, the three-point roll cage is the proper Kent Fuller style. The 2 chassis are each done in two halves, which some people find fiddly to line up, but I have never considered this much of an issue. At least the tubes are round! Recently re-issued and generally available. My only survivor from my misspent youth, a stretched double dragster: AMT Double Dragster Kit Another classic rich in parts. Also an incredible time piece because the digger chassis pre-dates the Kent Fuller revolution and is a very nice Chassis Research 4-point style with a straight tube front axle. Super nice small block Chevies and 392 Chrysler to work from. Probably the ultimate kit to do very early 60's dragster from. The 2nd "dragster" isn't a digger but a Fiat Altered. Re-issued by Round2 and generally available. The Tin Box special edition is the one to buy because of the extra chrome tree which gets you well on your way to building additional cars from the kit. I got 3 diggers and an altered from one Tin Box! 4 in 1! AMT Don Garlits Wynn's Jammer Another great classic kit full of super-nice parts. Well engineered and accurate 2 piece chassis with posable front end. Probably the nicest front axle out there. The only negative in my view is the Garlits-specific 3-point roll ncage which is long and shallow and pretty unique to him. Hard to use it to build other campaigners from the period. On the other hand the Dodge-branded 392 is very fine with a proper set of zoomies and a well detailed fuel system. Another excellent parts kit that builds up into a good early to mid-60's shorter wheelbase digger. Was re-issued as the HemiSphere and the chassis and drivetrain are available in the recently re-issued HippieHemi The Garlits Chassis done rather idiosyncratically as a Nailhead powered Junior Fueler:

Just keeps getting better. The "Brooklands"-ish screen really goes well with the wheels.

The Parts ,by Parks baby moons are excellent, very shiny and properly shallow for a good scale effect. They are pricey, however. In kit form my go-to because the kit is deep in useful parts for my projects is the AMT '40 Ford Sedan Delivery kit, although you have to be careful which one you get. The baby moons look very good, if a bit "tall" or deep. The kits are common and are regularly re-issued so they are not too expensive. The most recent re-issue with the baby moons was the Three Stooges version from Round2 (you won't find them in the Gene Winfield version): Any release that has the flipper hubcaps and the Desoto ribbed bumpers in it has the baby moons as well, whereas the kits that come with the Cragar mags don't. Here are two older releases that include the baby moons: As one would expect, they fit the standard AMT Ford style steelies perfectly, and also fit many other 1/24th and 1/25th steelies with no real issues. Here are the 'caps on a '29 A Roadster I built a few years back:

The Australian Automotive Model Builders forum is honoring the 1940 Ford 75th Anniversary with a Group Assembly Scheme which is what they call a Community Build Project. This will be my entry for it. It’s my first ever box art build and will be the yellow custom from the side of the original release Trophy Series of the AMT ’40 Ford Tudor Sedan. I only have later releases and will have to substitute a few parts and have to do something about the scallop decals. But at least it’s otherwise relatively simple and gives me a chance to get it built in time for the December deadline. Here’s the box top and the side panel: And here’s a close up of the yellow custom version with the cool early style Dean Jeffries scallops. You’ll notice I circled the rear fender area. There are 2 scallops back there, If you compare the original decal sheet to the illustration and add up the number decals, taking into account the rear deck decal on the sheet which wouldn’t be visible in a front ¾ view, there should be 11 of them. But on the sheet there are only 9! And to compound the problem the decals for the rear fender on the sheet don’t actually look like the ones in the illustration. Here’s the yellow custom: And here’s the original decal sheet as shown on the wonderful and invaluable Drastic Plastics Model Car Club instructions pages (see http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/amt-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/ford/1931-1940/amt-19391940-ford-s/ ). I circled the offending decal. The rear fender decal is really quite large Here’s a picture from the inside of the instruction sheet showing a slightly different variation on the box art car – it’s a ’39, it’s dark colored, and, frankly, it sits way lower (no rake, too) than the kit offers. But, most importantly, the fender skirt scallop (in this version there’s only one) doesn’t look like the one on the sheet (it’s skinnier), and it’s much smaller. The back of the decal sheet offers a clue as to what they intended, although I think it’s still too large, but at least it looks like the one on the sheet. But, Box Art is Box Art, so yellow it will be, and with the double scallops on the rear fenders! So… since the original decals in the DPMCC scan were pretty funky anyway, I decided to reconstruct them using Photoshop. And, since I was doing that, I decided to create my own version of the two scallops on, and behind, the rear fender skirts. I think I did a pretty fair approximation. The challenge now will be to double check my work by making some proof decals and applying them to the actual body, and then find a custom decal house that can make some for me since they have a white border which I can’t print! Oh, and get it all done in time for the December build deadline. Here’s my version of the kit scallops, including the fictitious double scallops on the rear fender: Other than that I’m thinking of a pearlescent yellow paint job, in keeping with era (the box art is somewhat silent on the matter…). I have a set of the correct AMT style Moon discs but lack the original capped exhaust dumps that came in this release. I’ll probably use the somewhat larger set from the AMT ’49 Ford kit. I may also take some liberties with the very plain interior in the drawing, and perhaps finish the running boards and engine compartment in white, although the white ‘boards may prove to be too great a departure from the box art to survive. The car will be lowered beyond the raked stance that the kit yields (the box art doesn’t appear to have any rake). And I’ll attempt hand painted whitewalls which would have been the practice at the time. Other than that it will be pretty much straight out of the box but with more modern attention to detail. Thanx for lookin’, B.

I am stunned. You are absolutely fearless! It may not be a perfect replica of the elusive and mythical Skip Hudson car, but it will be a beauty. For what it's worth to my eye the one unencumbered picture of the street version with Skip at the wheel (reputed to be a police photo!) shows a grill shell that looks a bit sectioned. Forum members may wish to know that the 4 pictures that Phil has shown are all that seem to exist...

Respect, dude! The discipline of a replica build with the techniques of a customized model. Too cool!

I am totally digging this no-B.S. approach to modeling this no-B.S. racing car. And that's no B.S.!

Nice subject. I always liked the clean simplicity of this era of cars. Truly "no stories" race cars that just looked like they would get the job done. I'm looking forward to seeing this take shape. I noticed the markings on the styrene rod to keep track of the orientation of the "fishmouths" on the ends. A trick I will remember. Now if I can just master making accurate bends in styrene rod...

Nothing like a Deuce, particularly this classic Revell kit, to provide some familiar territory to get the creative juices flowing again. Last year, after a particularly challenging and arduous project suddenly blew up on me (the body melted when I accidently left it under a work lamp...), I did a Revell Deuce quick build to keep the momentum going. It worked, too, and came out pretty nice - I called it "Therapy" and made a vanity plate for it with that name. I particularly like the stance on this project. The front end sits nice a low and the overall rake is on the money. Did you tweak the front axle location, or is it all due to the channel job and the lowered full-length grill shell? Either way it looks just right!

Thanks again, guys! Much appreciated.

I use hardware store MEK. The detailed discussion provided so far should provide you with all the facts including an excellent reference to the composition of some of the popular hobby liquid cements that I can't recall seeing before. In any case I like MEK. It's very cheap and very effective. The hardware store variety isn't too aggressive on plastic surfaces (although it will for sure mar clear plastic) so it works extremely well for second penetrating applications to ensure very strong final bonds. I'm very allergic to super-glue so finding appropriate alternatives has been mission critical for me. For styrene MEK is my "weapon of choice". Because hardware store MEK is so cheap (a quart sells for around $8.00 and lasts me a couple of years), I can make sure that my supply is always fresh. One thing that happens with liquid cements is that they become contaminated with dissolved styrene over time. You can see it cloud up in the jar. As this happens it becomes much weaker. So, because MEK is so very cheap, I can keep a nice clean supply in my applicator jar without worrying about the (very high) cost of the hobby store variety. One thing I absolutely HATED about many of the popular brands of liquid cement was the tall, tippy bottles - for example Tenax and Plastruct. I constantly was spilling the stuff. I love the solid, squat Tamiya bottles, so as I transitioned to plain old MEK I made sure to set some of those aside as my workbench container - it even comes with an excellent applicator brush.

Thanks Mike! Here's one more photo I left out earlier - a plain old side view:

Thanx Brad! All done, and just in time, too... Here are the final "beauty pics". Thanx to all for following along, B.

Great final result. It's interesting how getting the stance dialed in always pays off. It never not worth the extra effort. In this case it's as nice a Deuce railed highboy as has been done among the early efforts from this kit. The rake even makes the A-bone grill shell look good. I, too, will look forward to the red car with the Deuce grill!

Thanks everyone. It's all done and now I have to find time today to take the final photos. I kept adding small details right up to the very end (like decals on the front wing salvaged from the duplicates on my master sheet...). No pics and post today and I'll still fail to make the deadline... Steve, yeah there's not a whole lot of difference between these more evolved Competition Coups (and Roadsters) and a classic F.E.D. But the look of these things is so cool! I very often make some of my own decals. In fact the fog panel paint job on the digger in my signature is done with decals. Wish I had an Alps, though... Curt, it's too late now (and anyway I tried to limit myself to what I had on hand because of the deadline thing...). But we gotta work out Some Sort Of Arrangement... Glad you dig the build. Bill, thanks for the compliment. Getting the "look and feel" has always been what it's about when I build my models. It's always possible to work within whatever limitations your skills and resources might impose at a given time, but what's the point if you don't get the message across? For me it's exploiting the salient details of the period I'm modeling. But the principal applies just as well for those who build Deals Wheels, rusty rods, showroom stock, sportscars, or whatever.

Tim, I think that these are the best ones out there. Available either with a plain deck or louvered like this one, the casting is thin, smooth and strong with nice cowl and firewall detail. While, officially, the plain deck version is part of a very nice model based on the old Gratiot Auto Supply rear engine drag car, Chuck will sell you the main body alone if you ask. Also, FYI, AS has a plain tonneau cover available for it that fits perfectly and can be readily cut to suit whatever you're doing with it. Again, it's new and not listed, so you have to ask... I'm planning a SpeedSport style drag car, using the louvered deck and the plain tonneau, for sometime this winter.

Thanks Bob! This will be the last update before this project is done and the final “beauty shots” taken. With 48 hours to go before the Challenge deadline I think I’ll make it. There are still two windows to glue in, the usual minor polishing and cleanup to do, and other small details to attend to, such as dealing with the paint buildup on the edges of the roof panel so it sits properly, gluing some accessories into position, etc., etc. Since the last update I made some additional decals, in particular a trade decal panel. I also fabricated a front wing using .060 styrene, which I filed into an airfoil shape. I then added .020 stock side plates. It mounts on the front axle. In the picture below it sits a bit too flat and will tip downward once it’s epoxied into place. I also decided on a light orange color for the window material to split the difference between the yellow and red in the decal scheme. The composite picture below shows the wing . the window material, and various decal placements. Next stop completion! Thanx for lookin’, B.

Revell Only????

As the expression goes: "Lovely Stance"...

Great to see a big turnout for this subject, and so many names I associate with mastering this particular idiom, plus many more great builders who have, up to now, been unknown to me. Wish I coulda participated, so thanx a ton for the great photo summary. Lotsa beautiful builds, for sure!

The motor and chassis are now complete and ready to receive the body. The body has gotten its color coat and the decals art has been completed and the size and placement of the graphics checked. So at thi sstage I’m ready to print decals, apply them, and then clear coat the body. With 5 days to go I think I might make it… Thanx for lookin’, B. I decided to stick with a solid roof panel instead of the transparent one. It suits the proportions and aggressive chopped top better. Other than the black engine block the entire motor is detailed in Metalizer and chrome paints of one sort or another. The drag ‘chute will be centered in the rear deck relief once it’s glued in place. Here are some shots of the completed chassis. It’s quite subdued and monochrome looking, almost industrial. Here’s the print sheet for the decals. One of the benefits of making your own decals is you can easily and cheaply print duplicates for when (not if, in my case…) you screw up.

Thanks everyone! Here’s a small update. I’m afraid that, despite the looming deadline for the Challenge I’m all too distracted with detail stuff. The color scheme will be white with red, the red highlights consisting primarily of red lettering and quite likely red Plexiglas windows. I’ve finished detailing the bodywork so I can shoot primer and color tomorrow, weather permitting. In order to notch the lower edge of the body to clear the push bar I had to make a pushbar brace. The red Plexiglas windows led to fanricating a red Plexiglas roof panel. If I keep it it will need to be glued in place in order to conform to the roof curvature. If I go with a solid roof panel then I can use the piece I cut out4 and make it removable. I’m preparing both to try them out during final assembly. I also cut down a parachute from the hRevell Tony Nancy Double Dragster kit and cut a hole and installed a mounting panel in the rear deck to receive it. I also started fabricating a pair of whell well panels. They’re made from leftover Revell ’41 Willy’s Street Rod interior bits, massively cut down. They may be the one thing I don’t include in time for the Challenge deadline on the 15th. Otherwise I think I have a shot at it... Thanx for lookin’, B. The pushbar brace which will receive a vertical pushbar made from a piece aluminum tubing polished to a chrome-like finish: The rear end showing the red Plexiglas roof panel roughed into place, the notch in the body to clear the pushbar brace, and the parachute installation. Details, details, details…

An ambitious build impeccably turned out. So much to appreciate, the chop of course, but also the stance and the Old School flow of the lines, and the simple grill to go with the tasteful simplicity of the overall concept.