Terry Sumner

Roger on that my friend!!!

Sorry to hear aboout your knee. Mine's just finally getting so I can walk pretty good!

2nd pic much better! Nice looking Vette!

The pic is def there. Turns out to be a really big photo that is pretty far out of focus. The model looks good...any chance you could post some better, more in-focus pics? I'd like to see this model.

Awesome!

Roger, Please don't take my comments as a criticism of your model...I love it! The model you built is VERY good! Rather, the thread turned into a discussion about wrinkle walled slicks in their general application. I kind of have a thing about trying to get car modelers to strive for more accuracy in their builds. This comes from my airplane modeling where those guys are sticklers for accuracy. As a result, they get kits that have MUCH more fine detail molded in...and they are in smaller scales! 1/48th scale is HALF our normal scale of 1/25 - 1/24th! We car modelers as a whole don't cry out for accuracy from the kit makers and aftermarket producers anywhere near as much as the airplane modelers do. As a result our car models are sorely lacking in fine detail. They look "soft" in the crispness of the fine detail I seek. Although it has happened a few times where a car model has been manufactured wrong and then corrected because of input from buyers, this scenario occurs a LOT more with airplane models. New airplane kits come out with crappy detail....the model doesn't sell! A new car model comes out...like the 68 Nova with all kinds of inaccuracies...and we all still rush out and buy them. And further, when someone points out those inaccuracies, others will jump on that guy and say we should be happy to have the kit in the first place! What does that tell the manufacturer? Anyway, I apologize for hijacking your thread...I should have started a new one to discuss wrinkle walls!

Yes Mark...you're right that the Panella car's tires are severely under inflated. However, if one chooses to depict wrinkles at rest....this is how ANY wrinkles on a car at rest should be depicted. The degree at which the wrinkles are pronounced and subsequently depicted is a result of how much air pressure is in the tires of course. Most of the wrinkle walled slicks at rest don't show much wrinkling at all. But my point in all of this is that the DIRECTIONAL wrinkling on a car at rest is incontroversially wrong. Here's a few more to illustrate the varying degrees of tire pressure and the resulting degrees of wrinkles...Notice how the wrinkles extend out in BOTH directions from the center. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki This one is milliseconds prior to the green light! Hosted on Fotki And this one of course is under hard launch. Pretty easy to see the differences. Hosted on Fotki

If you've never used an airbrush before, you should be aware that there are 2 basic designs...single and double action. In the single action, when you press the trigger, a predetermined amount of paint comes out. This is determined by where you set the adjustment screw at the rear of the brush. On a double action unit, when you depress the trigger, only air comes out. Then, when you pull the trigger backwards the paint flows out. How far back you pull the trigger will determine how MUCH paint comes out. Pull a little way...you get a little paint. Pull all the way back you get the maximum amount of paint. So when you paint with a double action airbrush you are constantly regulating the air and paint by manipulating your touch on the trigger up and down and forward and back. This can take some getting used to! You may be better off as a beginner to use the single action brush as it is much easier to control it! A Badger 200 is a good example of this type of airbrush. The Badger 150 and Badger Anthem 155 are examples of a double action airbrush. IMHO a single action brush is just fine for painting car models. The dual action is much better at making fine lines and is great for doing complicated camo schemes on aircraft models but is unnecessary for model car bodies. If you get to where you feel comfortable to try things like true fire and other special effects then the double action is the better choice.

Very nice! How about detailing for the forum members all the exact steps you took to arrive at that very well done paint job?

The story here... http://www.allpar.com/racing/missile/missile.html

Daaaaaang that's nice!

When you build like that, the praise is well deserved!

Fabulous dio! Looks like the scene in my 1:1 garage the other evening only with motorcycles! One thing that I thought was funny...in the very first photo it looks like the guy to the extreme right is taking a leak! I know...he's looking out the window. But that was my first thought when I looked at the figure in that perspective!

Ok..I read the other thread where you wanted constructive criticism. I didn't look at this thread initially because Cords are not my thing so I had passed it over. So now I took a look and here are my thoughts... On the blue model: The windshield frame appears to fit poorly to the cowl The hood fitment is really bad Hard to tell but maybe glue on the windshield or hazing of some kind Some of the photos are too blurry to see any detail The corrugated lines connect to nothing under the hood On the red model: Hood fitment is bad The rear end sits way too high The exhaust is literally scraping the ground The headlight covers fit poorly Your red to gold colors demarcation line between the body and the rear fenders is ragged The soft top doesn't fit the top of the windshield frame There is some kind of vertical line in the front left fender paint With the hood off, the corrugated lines end in space and aren't hooked up to anything The cowl bracing ends in midair and isn't attached to anything. It's supposed to attach to another brace piece on top of the radiator On the plus side: Your paint appears to be pretty smooth...don't see a lot of orange peel in the paint The wheel alignment appears good...the tires aren't tilted out of alignment and all 4 tires appear to be on the ground Now I realize that these kits are pretty bad old tools, but your job as a modeler is to correct these bad parts if you wish to put photos of them up on a public forum and then ask for constructive criticism. However, I feel that these items I mentioned are fairly obvious and you probably already know about them. Terry

Don, While you are absolutely correct that personal preference is a matter of taste, I have to say that the wrinkles on the slicks as you have them are incorrect for "Rolling into the staging lanes". Those wrinkles ONLY depict a drag car under HARD launch and nothing else. It's simply a matter of torque forces applied to the thin sidewalls that cause the wrinkles as you have them modeled. It is not "rare" to see a wrinkle wall slick at rest looking semi flat as in the Panella photo. Just exactly how flat they appear at rest is simply a product of how much air pressure is in the tire. While many wrinkle wall slicks may have enough air pressure in them to show hardly any wrinkling in them at rest, they will all exhibit the singularly directional wrinkles as depicted in the tires on this model at launch and at launch only. Terry

The going rate for independant auto repair shops around here is from $76 to $85 an hour. The dealers are considerably higher of course.

Just so you know... I DID replace the clamp with a tried and true worm type!

Dave...take alook here... http://www.straightlinemodeler.org/tin.htm an excellent how-to on fabricating an aluminum dragster body!

Just before I had my knee surgery, I was in my F250 on a crappy rainy day and the truck had a huge coolant leak. Since it was raining so hard, I couldn't get down on the ground to see exactly where it was coming from but it was right in the area of the lower radiator hose connection to the radiator. I thought for sure the plastic radiator hose outlet had cracked as they were known for this and then the only option is to replace the radiator. So I had the truck flatbedded back to my house. Well then I had the surgery on 3/22, and the subsequent blood clot, etc etc. I finally felt that I had enough energy today to get my truck into my garage and up on the lift. The stock Ford clamp over the lower radiator hose is one of those steel jobs that you have to use a special tool to squeeze it to open it up. (or wrestle with pliers) I have one of those ratcheting hose clamp tools so I proceed to lay it on the clamp. As soon as I applied pressure, the clamp disintegrated! A-HA!..I thought...maybe this is why the coolant leaked...no clamp pressure on the hose! Sure enough after checking everything out, that's all it was.. a broken hose clamp! Hallelujah! No radiator replacement! No long day in the garage and it only cost me $2 for a hose clamp and $25 for a couple of gallons of antifreeze! 'Bout time something good happens!

Actually, I wish a resin caster would offer a line of different sized wrinkle walls with the correct wrinkles for a car at rest. like this.... Hosted on Fotki

Please forgive me if I offend you as I don't mean any offense...just an opinion.... Unless you are planning to display this well done model in a diorama with a driver in it and launching off the starting line, those wrinkled rear slicks are completely wrong. Now you of course have the right to put anything you want on the model..after all..it is yours. But slicks wrinkled like that are totally unrealistic and it seems to me that you have made some pretty darn good efforts there to create a fairly accurate Mopar Missile...so why would you put such innaccurate rear tires on it? I have been unable to fathom why car modelers use these things on their models. Again, it's your model...do it any way you wish. But I throw this out to you just in case you don'trealize how inaccurate they are. Flame suit on...

Alan, I'm one of the Super Moderators on The AircraftResourceCenter forum. Not that I'm biased but the ARC forum is by far the best aircraft forum out there! As of now there are 16,492 registered members and over 1.2 million posts! The Aircraft Resource Center is actually 2 parts. First is the ARC Air site, which is a daily magazine. New builtup airplane articles along with product reviews are posted every day by the site owner Steve Bamford. ARC AIR has a huge Gallery with thousands of articles in it! These gallery entries are all the daily articles from the very beginning back in the late 90's! And the second part is the forum, just like this one. There is a gallery there too of user submitted posts in "The Display Case" subforum, currently with over 7000 entries! I really don't think you can think of very many airplanes that are not represented by a built model somewhere on ARC! Link to forum: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php? Link to ARC site: http://www.arcair.com/ Happy surfing...

Ahhhh...home now. Home sweet home, be it ever so humble! Feels great. Bob: If I can swing the trip financially I'll be there. Doc says I have no restrictions on walking...whatever I can tolerate!

They got my INR to 2.0 so the Doctor just gave me my walking papers! Have an appointment with the Coumadin clinic already set for monday morning. Looks like I'm only going to have to be on this rat poison for 6 months. So glad to be getting out of here!!!

Geez...I actually have one of those original issues! Hadn't heard of any reissue tho....