Terry Sumner

Here's me and my lovely wife of 30 years this past October at my class reunion.... Hosted on Fotki Me a few years back before I retired... Hosted on Fotki Me and two of the 5 best things in my life...my sons! Hosted on Fotki And....me and my bride on my pride and joy...the 2003 Harley 100th Anniversary Deuce CVO Screamin Eagle bike. Hosted on Fotki

Actually...I don't know yet! Darn good question and I'm open to any suggestions anyone may have....

2nd update on 3/10...got the yellow on also. I masked the pickup off with Parafilm and it gave me some very nice extremely sharp demarcation lines with no bleed-under between the White and Yellow. Now just have to shoot some clear coats and the body will be fini! All in all...it didn't turn out to be as hard as I thought it was going to be to get the body back into shape. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Bodywork done. I now have the white color on. Now I have to mask it off and spray on the yellow colorcoat! It's getting there! Hosted on Fotki

While spraying some paint onto the 60 Ford pickup resto project, I realized just how unhappy I was with my old air setup. So as Tim Taylor was so fond of saying, "I rebuilt it!" I had a twin tank compressor that I had picked up somewhere for cheap. I set up a hose from the compressor to a female quick disconnect. Then put a male quick connect spigot on the air-in side of a small moisture collector I had in the garage from my old air system I used to have there. Then a shutoff valve to a fairly cheap regulator from good old Home Cheapo. Then I stuck another female quick connector on the end of that. With another male end on the airbrush line it's easy to plug the line in or out. The regulator was only $23 at HD. So now I have a regulated air supply (with an inline moisture collector) from a compressor with 2 holding tanks and it holds enough air so that it sprays for a long time before it has to kick on. If you're interested...the regulator is a Husky unit, SKU number 401-877 as I said, from Home Depot. Hosted on Fotki Here's the old air compressor. Just a unit that carpenters use to power nail guns. Hosted on Fotki

Quite correct. In 1970 I heavily modified a 1967 Triumph Tiger 650 into a really long chopper. I had no battery or Zener Diode. The 67 had an A/C magneto ignition system with a rectifier and a capacitor. Just had to make sure you kicked it hard enough to git er going! LOL

Great minds think alike...I've had almost exactly this same project in my head for some time now....ever since I removed the entire rear section out of a friend's 04 Z06 in my garage to do some tranny repair. Seeing exactly how it goes told me that this kind of swap could be accomplished "fairly" easily. Great job...now I have an actual reference to go by!

Did Butchy wanna go outside????? Did he wanna...huh...did he..did he???? Dang that video was funny!

If any of you fellas want to read a good article on the Aurora stuff, written by Tom West who was one of the movers and shakers in the developement of the entire line, go here... http://www.straightlinemodeler.org/aurora.html

Yes...my Iaconio is indeed molded in yellow!

Thanks Michael!

This is the same kit as the Frank Iaconio Camaro isn't it? Because that's the issue that I have and it has the regular chrome tree... And the instruction sheet is copyright 1984.

John, You end your post with, "Thanks for looking." To which I say, "Thanks for building!" Your stuff continually amazes me!

I'd like to thank everyone for all their encouragement on this "resurrection"....they definitely contribute to the enthusiasm and inspiration for it. I don't know about the article thing though Bill...I'm really not doing anything special or out of the ordinary with this thing at least so far. Just mainly using superglue for filler along with the 3M Finishing glaze. It's just a matter of cleaning up all the damaged plastic and sanding the whole thing down to a good finish to get ready for paint. I used Easy Off oven cleaner to do all the stripping and the old paint came right off. So for now I just have a few more little spots that need further attention and then it'll be ready for paint. I have some good acrylic lacquers left over from when Leon Tefft was marketing House of Kolors paint in smaller bottles under the Cobracolors line so that's what I plan to use. I love the acrylic lacquers and I have some Speedway White and Millenium Yellow. I'm not 100% sure the Millenium Yellow is going to be a perfect match for Mooneyes Yellow but probably close enough. We shall see... )

Agree! Decal film is the ticket. It flexes like decal film because it IS decal film!

Thanks for that info Jon! His build is definitely my inspiration for this one!

Been on this project almost non-stop. I don't know why, but my enthusiasm is high for this project! Maybe it's the challenge...I dunno...but it feels good as I haven't really been this enthused in a long time! So I'd say the bodywork is mostly complete. I still have a couple of minor glitches here and there to sand out but I have the first coat of DupliColor high build primer on the truck. For body filler I'm using 3M Bondo brand Professional Finishing Glaze. This stuff is not like the old Nitro-Stan....this stuff is a 2 part extremely fine grained filler. With a hardener you mix in like autobody filler, the stuff hardens in minutes so you can work it right away. I guess you can judge for yourself how it's coming. Man I can't believe it's actually this decent at this stage considering what we started with! Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Thanks for that tip! I checked and Modelhaus does indeed have a vac-formed set of glass for this. I'm going to order it...hopefully it will fit! Thanks again. Terry

Got some preliminary bodywork done. Up to now I've stripped all the old paint and chrome and filled and sanded some areas that needed it. Now I've given the model a thin coat of Testor's aluminum lacquer. This is a technique brought from my aircraft modeling when trying to do a natural metal finish. This technique allows you to clearly see where every single flaw is in your bodywork no matter how small. By the time I get done with more bodywork it will all be sanded off anyway. Here are side views... Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Here you can see all the flaws that need to be filled. No filler has been used as of yet... Easy to see with the aluminum paint huh? Hosted on Fotki Same thing on the opposite side. You can clearly see where the plastic is damaged in between the cab and bed. Hosted on Fotki Repaired the hole in the hood but still needs a bit of filler and more sanding... Hosted on Fotki Stripped the front and rear bumpers and grill then removed the "1960" lettering in the license plate frame areas. I'm giving serious thought to removing all the plastic in the grill area between all the individual grille lines. This thing is pretty thick so I think it can take it. I guess we'll see.... Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Well that's it for now. Stay tuned....

So I have wanted to build the tri-vehicle combination of the Mooneyes Dragster, the 1960 Ford Pickup and the trailer for many years. But just try and obtain that which could be described as Unobtanium...that is...the 1960 Ford Pickup Truck kit. Oh yes you can find them..but at prices beyond what I'm willing to pay. A couple of years ago, a modeling friend sent me an old builtup 1960 pickup and I've had it in storage. It is in really tough shape so I've held it in abeyance for years hoping to snag an unbuilt kit. Alas..to no avail. So I've decided to take the plunge and see if I can resurrect the train wreck of a 60 Ford into a reasonably decent facsimile of a fresh built pickup. As you can see by the attached photos I have my work cut out for me. The previous builder cut a hole in the hood, part of the hood is missing on the passenger side hood vent opening or whatever that is, the front grille piece is in deplorable shape, and there are a number of other problems that are going to be tough to deal with. In particular, it appears that there may have been a couple of vertical exhaust stacks sloppily glued in the opening between the rear of the cab and the front of the bed. Nasty looking wounds to the plastic there... The engine is so bad I'm either going to replace it altogether or make this part of the triumvirate into a curbside! I feel pretty confident that I can repair the damged areas of the body and get this pickup to a fairly respectable condition. I also have an original Mooneyes Double Car Kit to build the dragster from. I have a car trailer in my stash but I'm not sure if it will be correct enough for the time period. If not, maybe I can modify it enough to make it look like it came from the 60's. So here are a few pictures...Think it's possible????? This is what I'm attempting to build...don't remember who built it or at what show I took this photo, but the builder did a terrific job! Hosted on Fotki Starting with this.... Hosted on Fotki The right side... see thedamaged area between the cab and bed? That damage is deep! And on the hood in that black area, the bottom half of that opening is gone.... Hosted on Fotki The left side. Same type damage from whatever was glued between the cab and bed...This thing had fender skirts messily glued to the wheelwells too. I've already removed them. Hosted on Fotki And this is going to be a major problem...the window glass. I'm pretty sure I could sand it down and get it nicely polished back into shape. However, when I put it in place, it's too narrow by at least 1/8th of an inch! So a new windshield is in order. Besides, the kit glass is either so yellowed with age or it was colored glass on purpose...but it's a brownish color. Hosted on Fotki

I have an original unbuilt Fred Flypogger as Speed Shift kit from 1965 that is complete. I also have an ad in color for those kits and another for some contest from the comic books of that year. I'm not selling it right now but I've watched them go for over $400 - $500!!! Hosted on Fotki

I got one of those last year for about the same amount! Then I gave the Sanitary T half to a good friend who had been looking for one for a long time. I only wanted it for the Mooneyes dragster half...

I was watching this one just to see how high it would sell for as I was quite certain it would be way above my means.... After 32 bids it went for $999.00!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160545730453&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

This is correct. A completey cured enamel paint is much "Tougher" than any lacquer. The catchwords here are "completely cured". Lacquers are more prone to chipping where enamels dry to a hard shell. The catch is...enamels are tougher to lay down than lacquers so in this instance I would go with the lacquers as being the best choice for the OP's question.

VERY well executed!