novadose71

Looks great in gold, much better than the original purplish color.

Thanks Kevin...I'll try to post it "On The Bench" in the next couple of days, possibly tonight. Maybe then I'll get the ambition to get working on it again.

Thanks for reminding me

Here's one I built up

I use Castrol Super Clean...removes the lacquer undercoat and chrome

Thanks. The chassis fought me a bit too, that's why it didn't get the engine....I didn't want to have to mess with it. The tire decals came with the PPP tires IIRC. I just gave them a slight dusting with some black pastel powder before dullcoting them.

From one of the most famous finishes in Daytona history, and I believe the first televised start to finish NASCAR race. Most eyes weren't even on the finish line at the time Richard got the checkered flag....they were on the infield brawl between Cale and the Allison clan following their crash. This was built curbside with an SMH Cutlass body and a Chassis of unknown origin. The body was very thick and took considerable grinding with my Dremel to get the wheelwell area's thin enough to look good....and also to fit tires under the fenders. After drilling the fuel filler I made a new one and prepped the body for the Petty blue and fluorescent red paint from MCW. Decals were sourced from several kit and aftermarket sheets. The ill fitting windows were stolen from an unbuilt kit that I can't recall. I made the grille's with some mesh I had lying around, trimmed 'em with BMF, and gave them a shot of dullcote before super gluing on. The bumpers are from the SMH kit and were sprayed gloss black, the strip masked off and sprayed with Alclad. I stretched and mangled the exhaust dumps from aluminum tube. IIRC the tires were from a kit with the lettering shaved, some kit decals added, shot with Dullcote and weathered slightly. Wheels and window net are from Plastic Performance Products.

Built trackside as raced at Daytona 75. I started with the Polar Lights Petty Charger and lots of reference. I started by removing the hood bulge and replacing with styrene sheet and some strip for the center uhhh...strip. Moving to the body I started with the hardest part, the SE 1/4 window "vents". After I was happy with those I thinned the A-pillars, removed the rear spoiler, added a fuel overflow tube, filled the fuel filler hole and drilled a new one, then made a quick fill insert out of styrene rod and tube. after all the bodywork was finished I airbrushed IIRC Ford (Poppy?)red from MCW on the body then polished it out. I had been given the K&K decal sheet by a fellow club member and pieced the contingency decals together from various aftermarket sheets....and had a couple of custom ones made too. The interior and chassis were built out of the box with a window net from PPP and heat shrink rollbar padding. Wheels and tires are from PPP as well. I think that is all on this one, thanks for lookin'.

I have an unbuilt Ramblur, built the Street Fury just after it was released, and my son and I built the Road block a few years later, and that's in my parts box now...hows that for hitting the nail on the head All cool and very basic, weekend type kits that go together like butter. Would like to find another fury and Roadblock sometime. It's not a good one but the only pics I have of any of the 3 of those...hoodscoop and wheels are from the parts box The custom trunk treatment is not included in the box, my son added that....This was the very last detail mind you.....I had it all assembled and standing on the front bumper so I could fill the taillights with red paint, then put my desk lamp about 8 inches away to apply some heat to dry them a little faster and then got distracted in the other room. Well my ever alert 4 year old was watching the whole thing and thought if a little heat was good, a lot would be better. I came back 5 or 10 minutes later to find the lamp about 1/2 inch away and smoking like crazy....my heart dropped, a calm explanation ensued and we both learned valuable lessons that day

Yep, that's a 6 in there I think this would probably be 6 powered This is a 6 just not in a line This was 6 powered, now it's a cube of metal, and the six is on a stand in the garage....will trade for models :lol:

You just posted my new fave Caddy model...........absolutely gorgeous

Don't know....never started one

I always liked that kit, great build.

For disposal of leftovers I just let them harden in the mixing cup and throw them out. There are some area's where you aren't s'posed to do this, but it's probably OK on a hobby scale

I'll start by saying anyone who sprays urethanes in a closed area without a respirator and spray booth is a f,o,o,l..... FOOL......and I'll stand behind that statement 'til I'm 6 feet under. Urethane clears do give a nice, durable finish, and although I prefer lacquers, I have sprayed several models with it in the past but......... Don't let someone tell you nothing bad can happen from the overspray/fumes from a "7 inch body", it will hang in the air for extended periods while you breathe it in, then settle on everything creating plenty of oppertunity for everyone in the house to breathe it in as well, including the dust from dried overspray months down the road, which is hazardous too. Urethanes are absorbed through the skin and eyes, and when inhaled they bond and crystalize in your lungs and WILL MOST DEFINITELY build up over time. Will it kill you? Probably not with limited exposure. Will it cause health/breathing issues for you later in life? You bet. I'm not even going to mention the explosion hazards associated with spraying in the basement next to water heaters, furnaces and the like....oh wait, I just did I have 20 years of professional experience working around and spraying urethanes, and the training to go with it, and can assure you they are caustic. I get a kick(not really) out of the young guys at work who brag and boast that they can't even smell the chemicals in the air anymore and then try to make me feel less than cool when I try to get them to come to their senses. I can't smell them either but that's because I have a respirator on. In the end they're YOUR lungs, and it's YOUR decision how you handle these chemicals.......and YOUR decision now will make a difference in the quality of your life when you are old and gray....or sooner. I got this right from OSHA, and even though it's geared for the workplace it holds true for models....just on a smaller scale ... Many workers are unaware of the potential hazards that chemicals present in their work environment, which makes them more vulnerable to injury. The following references aid in recognizing and evaluating hazards associated with isocyanates in the workplace. Isocyanates are compounds containing the isocyanate group (-NCO). They react with compounds containing alcohol (hydroxyl) groups to produce polyurethane polymers, which are components of polyurethane foams, thermoplastic elastomers, spandex fibers, and polyurethane paints. Isocyanates are the raw materials that make up all polyurethane products. Jobs that may involve exposure to isocyanates include painting, foam-blowing, and the manufacture of many Polyurethane products, such as chemicals, polyurethane foam, insulation materials, surface coatings, car seats, furniture, foam mattresses, under-carpet padding, packaging materials, shoes, laminated fabrics, polyurethane rubber, and adhesives, and during the thermal degredation of polyurethane products. Health effects of isocyanate exposure include irritation of skin and mucous membranes, chest tightness, and difficult breathing. Isocyanates include compounds classified as potential human carcinogens and known to cause cancer in animals. The main effects of hazardous exposures are occupational asthma and other lung problems, as well as irritation of the eyes, nose, throat, and skin. 2008 Isocyanates In Paints Potential hazard: Inhaling isocyanates may sensitize a person, causing an asthma-like reaction. This reaction may occur within days of exposure or may take months or years to develop. Once sensitized, a person is likely to experience recurring shortness of breath upon repeated exposure. Direct skin contact with isocyanates may cause rashes, blistering and reddening of the skin. Repeated skin contact may cause skin sensitization. Exposure to airborne isocyanates can cause eye irritation and temporary blurred vision. Direct contact with the eye may cause cornea damage Enjoy

Very nice, clean work. I like your vent and side windows.

Nice paint.....I knew there was a model being built in here somewhere I agree black panel/orange insert

I use the Excel blades too. I have had Testors and Exacto brand #11 blades on hand for 6 or 7 years but don't use them...I keep buying the Excel cuz they are waaayyyy sharper. I don't recall needing to change(or sharpen) Excel blades in the middle of A BMF session either. BTW Nice builds Stasch

Wicked chop...any pics of the dash?

Nothing like a ride on the bike to clear your head.

Plastikote sandable here as well, goes on like Tamiya, just cheaper,you get twice as much, and more color options. I get mine at Advance Auto in my area, sometimes they have a buy one get one sale Just call around to the automotive parts and/or paint stores in your yellow pages....someone is bound to stock it

Something like these Jim. My "babies" are 6 and 14 now so I'm starting to run low on the containers. The others in the pic are from the 1/87 Malibu brand vehicles, these work well also.

Quit building??? :blink: That's just crazy Jim Go at it again and work through it, you'll be a better person afterwards ......or just throw it at the wall

My only complete Caddy....Monogram 59 mild custom A mild custom built by a friend from a 51(?) Chevy fastback kit that I gave him...It's the only build in my case not built by me

Awesome