Mustang fan

I have been experimenting a lot with resin 3D printing lately, and like many others I have noticed these layer lines appearing on some rather "horizontal" surfaces. These are more or less pronounced, depending mainly on the layer thickness, a parameter you can adjust in the printing parameters of the slicing software. Basically, the finer the layer setting, the less visible the lines will be. I currently use 20um as my default setting, and while not completely invisible, the layer lines are faint enough that a good coat of primer will make them completely smoothed out (I use Mr Surfacer 1000 for that). For info, my printer is an Elegoo Mars 4 , with a x-y resolution of 18um. I do not use the anti-aliasing feature as I found it does not seem to be effective. As for the commercial resin prints, it seems they are mainly printed using 50um layers, probably to save printing time (printing at 20um layer height takes 2.5 times more than using 50um...)

The thickness is mentioned on the packaging, but you are right it is 0.01mm not 0.1mm ! It is noticeably thicker than BMF, but not as thick as kitchen foil...

I did not see any residue after I removed it from the bare plastic or the glass.

I just got a pack of this new metal foil from Tamiya, and from my first tests it look better than Bare Metal in some key points: -Shine is a notch better, and tint is more white (Bare metal has a slight yellow tint in comparison) -Adhesion is much better, and makes application of tiny pieces easier -Less sensitive to tearing, because of its higher thickness Now the only downside to this foil is that its thickness (0.1mm) makes it harder to conform to complex shapes, and overlapping of pieces is more visible. It is however still very thin and it can be worked pretty much like Bare metal, it just need more work in case of a non-flat support. It sticks better on non glossy surfaces too. Here are a few shots I took: There are two sheets in the pack: Here is a test on my WIP 71 Mustang, with two pieces overlapping in the middle: Now a comparison between Bare Metal and Tamiya, when applied on a glass jar (Bare metal on top): Both products have been polished using a Q-tip. The Tamiya foil polished great , the brushed aluminium aspect disappears after a few swipes of the Qtip! All in all I think I will use Tamiya from now on, at least for all the bright work on the car bodies. Price wise, it is about the same as Bare Metal, per square inch.

Tamiya lacquer paint line LP-43 is an equivalent white pearl to the Mr Color C151, it might be easier to get than Mr Hobby paints.

It look to me the air cleaner is the correct one for a non-ram air 429: (I posted the whole kit contents on scalemates.com)

Just to clarify on the James Bond version: the tires have white walls on one side only, the other side is black wall. This is why I don't understand why Revell provides white wall decals (unless you want to have white walls on both sides of the tires)

CD/DVD's are a thing of the past now, an online subscription would be much more appreciated by the car modelers around the globe (I am located in France, and shipping a CD from the US costs a lot). Plus, the issues could be added month after month (instead of building a DVD with all the issues).

I got the Mach1 kit last week, here are a few shots of the new parts: Hood (no latches) Front bumper / rear panel / rear valance: 429 Engine: Steel wheels with hubcaps and trim rings: tampo printed tires (same than on Boss 351): Some parts used on this kit variant were already in the Boss351 kit (gas cap, fan shroud) Here is the decal sheet: Note the small black rings used for the hubcaps. I don't know why the whitewall decals are included...

Congratulations for this piece of art! Can you please let us know how you design these 3D parts, which software in particular?

There is a Mr Hobby product specifically designed for this purpose: Mr Color Replenishing agent. It is basically the Mr Color thinner with a specific additive that is not present in the thinner (but the smell is absolutely identical to Mr color thinner). I already rejuvenated a lot of my Mr Color bottles with this product, and they are still usable after a few years. I suspect you could use the Mr color thinner as well for this Mr Surfacer.

That was an extended review in the Feb 2013 issue. The issue is with the chassis plate, it has some raised mounting pads that place the front too high. The author just hacked them off. Then in doing so, the engine would interfere with the hood, so you need to grind the oil pan cross member on the chassis plate to lower the engine in the bay. Hope this helps!

I have had molotow chrome turn into silver after only 1 year in storage at ambient temp, and it never turned chrome again no matter how hard or long I shook and stirred the bottle. The same happened with a bottle of Alclad Chrome (after at least 5 years, though). I assume all these chrome paints / inks use similar pigments, which eventually settle or degrade, and it seems they cannot be rejuvenated. So far here are the chrome paints I have tested: -Alclad: Dark chrome, not too shiny (good for scale models). Shelf life is 1-5 years -AK Super Chrome: Very reflective, but can dry to a dull finish sometimes. Shelf life: bottle content still good after 1 year. -Green Stuff (brush & airbrush types): Very reflective, easy to apply, consistent results. Shelf life: bottle content still good after 1 year. -Molotow: Very reflective , can dry to a dull finish sometimes. Shelf life is 1-5 year (my refill bottle is 3 years old and is still good, but my 1mm pen turned silver after 2 years) Just my experience.

same for me with my kit (recent issue), frame rails, interior, bed, all severely warped.

I bought the DVD years ago, and I soon converted all the issues it contains into PDF files, guessing the software required to access them from the dvd would eventually become unusable (for info, I use Windows 10, and it still works on the current up-to-date version). It is very easy to do this conversion, since the reading software allows printing of any pages, even an entire issue at once. Just use a free pdf printer like "PDF creator", and voila! (adjust the paper size in the printer driver, so that you do not see ugly white margins around the pages). Now, Kalmbach could also provide the password use to allow access to the pdf files on the DVD...

Here is my contribution to this topic: AMT 67 Shelby GT350, wheels from AMT 69 mustang Mach1, Tire from spare box (BF Goodrich). Painted True Blue from Model Master Enamel Revell 70 Boss 429, built Box stock with Testors Ruby Red Pearl paint.

On a positive note, I ordered a replacement part for the 62 corvette last year, and was surprised to receive it 10 days later, in a small cardboard box...Absolutely free of charge. I May add, I am located in France!

Kids like to build (is Lego dying?), it's a fact the market is there. But 30 year old kits are a thing of the past, the part fit and model appearance leave a lot to be desired, unless you are an experienced builder. Even the recent kit releases from Revell or AMT are targeted at the same customer base. Revell realises they need to move forward and design a new scale modeling product approach, to appeal to a broader audience. AT LAST! I am impressed that I can still buy kits the same way I could in the 70s; however, I would like to see some news in this hobby (what about multimedia kits, or simply adding parts packs, even adding lights and sound, like for the HO train market...) Frankly, no-one would miss the bare vinyl tires with incorrect dimensions, heavy chrome parts with impossible-to-remove mold lines, thick looking and inset glass, molded-in wipers and door handles, etc...

I read on the round 2 website that they include a set of all-new pad-printed Good Year polyglas tires in the newly re-released 66 Mustang, now that would make an excellent addition to this series of parts packs! They even come in two sizes in this kit...

Beautiful body on this kit, it looks exactly identical to the 1/25 version actually. Revell also decided to mold the wipers in a similar way, I think molded-in wipers are very outdated on new kits. Come on Revell !!

I have cast a few dozen tires and have learned a lot along the way. I use hard resin, it works well with plastic rims, all you need to fit them is sometimes trim the lip with a file, other than that they are perfectly usable. The benefit I find from using resin, as opposed to rubber, is that you can paint the tires the shade of black you want (I like to paint them a very dark gray, no tire is perfectly black). I n addition, it is very easy to file a "flat" on one side of the tread to simulate the "weight" of the car, this gives a very realistic look and lowers the stance by an inch or so. But it is true that casting is not cheap, and it takes some effort and experience to yield acceptable results, especially without pressure equipment to get bubble-free castings like professional casters use. However I like to duplicate parts instead of nuying kits just to raid the tires, and I cast a lot of parts with clear resin to substitute the ugly chromed headlight and backup lights especially (also taillights, using clear resin with added red dye). I have invested $100 for resin casting my parts, and have produced about 10 tire sets, 20 rim sets and a few dozen other parts (rearview mirrors, bumpers...), so all in all I think it is lees expensive than buying the corresponding number of kits.

I use Tamiya acrylic flat black (XF-1) for all my washes, I thin it a little with their own X20-A thinner, then liberally apply it to the part. I wait until it is almost dry, then use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol and gently brush the raised details to remove the paint. I do the body panel lines using the same technique (the alcohol won't touch the lacquer clear I use). It works every time for me... I know some people who use artist oil for their washes, they thin the color (paste from a tube) with turpentine and flow it on the part. Artist oils take a long time to dry completely (about a week), and can be removed by brushing turpentine on the parts and wiping it off.

I am impressed, all that engine detail amazes me... and the color fits great with the car, looking different than the usual "performance" tones. One thing I would change on such a beautiful model is the tire appearance: By creating a flat spot on the tires, the stance is more correct I think, the car looks more natural and lower on its tires. By the way, I don't like vinyl tires in general, I now use resin copies on my models, that way I can easily tweak them and paint them a more correct color (low gloss dark grey).