diymirage

looks great, i wish i could paint dashboard like that i also really like the plaupe between the taillights now, my only word of advise, look at the last picture you posted if on your next model you hit that moldline with a little sandpaper before painting it it would even better

came out very nice and i do like those rims (though i feel any truck should have stamped steel rims, like a work horse) my only "complaint" is, did you HAVE to paint a ford F-150 italian red ? thats just adding fuel to the flames now tell me honoustly, did you take it into the shower with you?

interesting they must really not trust thier drivers but at least it beats the donuts they put in american cars

6 wheels ? are we counting the steering wheel ?

finish on it looks great better then my 3rd build by far better then my 30th build still only flaw i see is the one decal (which im sure you're aware of) all together definatly a build to be proud of well done young grasshopper

very well its a slow road (my sisters daughter is a premie and has been going back and forth between the nursey and the nicku) but she is definatly heading in the right direction since were on the subject of Amber, i send you a PM a while ago on the exact plates you want, whenever you get back to me i can start working on them (dont get me wrong, i understand how low priority models are to you right now but i wouldnt want to be the one holding up the build for when your little girl gets back home)

needle juice ? is that the same as blinker fluid or a hose stretcher ? i dont think ive ever heard of it

i like where the eaxhaust is going but if i could make a suggestion...turn them 1/4 turn each so that the outlets point at the ankles of innocent bystanders (dont ask me why, but i think it will look cool that way, plus, if your running a wee bit rich you dont want the flames coming out the pipes to bounce of the road and burn the tires) as for the dechromed bumpers, i think they will do well in giving the ilusion of fiberglass replacements rather then the stock units

here is one that im saving for that special project

im a little ways away from you, more towards grand rapids the washing technique is really rather simple , youll get the hang of it soon enough

if you use a "true" wash you dont need to wipe it of since it is so wet it will settle in the low spots and run off the high spots long before it dries but the way i decribed it, i like using a Q-tip its a nice firm shape that you can run over just about anything that has even a little height difference and it will take the paint of the high surface but leave the lower untouched it works wonders for grilles aswell (have a look at this grille, i used that method on it)

i like the gaugers and i love the mill

im not too worried about not having the cash to spend once i retire because: A: the wifey is a doctor B: im only 28 (of course ad point A to that and im only 5-10 years from retirement) C: the wifey is a doctor

promise not to laugh...but i do all my wetsanding in the shower no mess there to bad about the paint, i thought it was great combo with those wheels

that is one mean looking goat is that the stock hood? if i could make a suggestion, run a black wash on those rims, it will give them some real nice depth (if youdont have washes go ahead and paint them flat black and then wipe up the spokes so it just sits in the lower parts) looking forward to seeing the two tone on there

i like the mudstank but i would suggest closing in the wheel wells a bit, they seem to large for the rims

would it be plyable enough though ? it seems pretty sturdy to me, i always like using electrical wire

we see a lot of hemi cudas on here but this one stands out i really like the colour on it, looks like a sleeper

its a great looking model but seeing that mopar colour on there is like seeing a hamburger on a hotdog bun...its just not right

one thing about shipping costs on ebay ,there is a reason for it (not an honoust one but still) plain and simple: ebay doesnt collect on shipping charges so lets say they charge 3 % on the sale price person A sells a kit for 25 dollars plus 5 dollars shipping he ends up paying ebay 0.75 dollars person B sells a kit for 5 dollars and chargers 25 dollars he ends up paying ebay 0.15 dollars in both cases the seller pays 30 dollars but if the seller CLAIMS to pay more for shipping ends up pocketing more i know were just talking about 60 cents here but if the person in question sells 100 kits per year were talking a cool 60 dollars (a DISHONOUST 60 dollars but still)

well i tried several different kinds of tape and no luck ill be trying the wood and the alcohol next (probably the alcohol first so as not to damage the paint)

my nearest LHB is about 35 minutes away and the wifey and i have the agreement that the people that work there are valueable enough for me to spend some money there every time i go so while i do most of my reeling and dealing online i stop in there about once a month and spend a few bucks i love browsing there because they have a ton of old as well as new stuff and i like the old stuff (also their prices range from 14-34 for kits, not counting the exceptions)

hey guys, i just dug up a model i got started on ages ago the paint is allright but the BMF is not finished i started putting it on but never trimmed it or removed the excess so now i want to start over, i ont mind keeping the paint (or losing it) but i really need to get rid of the BMF i started any suggestions ?

if i had to take my chances at 50 MPH i would take this over this by a LONG SHOT

my bad i know i sent one out to someone on here i remember telling him when he asked about it that it looked like the unit on the mopar missile and he replied thats what he wanted it for lol iether way, it looks great and those wrinkle walls look great