Fletch

Here are the other 2 '32 Sedans for the SABA/LAMA Inner Club Challenge. Some trivial thing about needing sleep got in the way of these 2 getting completed. #2 of 3 The second of the builds is a "32 Sedan Delivery. Pretty much the body and chassis are straight from the box with the side windows replaced with pieces of .030 Evergreen styrene. The first attempt at a Sedan Delivery was done using the kit supplied side windows. The kit clear plastic and Dupli-color black primer don't play well with each other, so that body will become a tub or something else at a later date in time. The paint in Dupi-color black primer followed by Dupli-color Black Lacquer then topped wit 4 coats of PPG Catalyzed Urethane Clear. Wheels and tires are from the Revell '29 Pickup with Parts by Parks Baby Moon caps and trim rings. Under the hood if the kit supplied Flathead but with a twist the intake id from the AMT '41 Woodie which gives the flatty a totally different look. Hosted on Fotki Good Lord willing this will be completed over the weekend or at least early next week. #3 of 3 The third of the trio is the most involved of the bunch. The frame has been ed the depth of the frame in the front and around 12" in the rear. The top was lowered a scale 4" with the body being channeled the depth of the frame. The kit supplied rear axle has been split on either side of the pumpkin with a piece of brass wire to widen the rear tire track. The engine for this build is from an AMT Buick Rivera so it can have a Nailhead between the frame rails. I wanted a way out of the ordinary intake on this engine as it sits higher and is more prominent place in the overall build. After much searching I found the 8 carb log manifold from the AMT '53 Ford Pickup. However, the way it sits on the Hemi from the '53 wouldn't work for the Nailhead. So, the center runners were removed and what was the right outside now was the left inside. The interior is going to require some major rework with the new location of the engine/transmission. A new tranny hump and drive shaft covers will have to be made. Chances are the seats will need ot be either reworked or replaced with bomber seats. At this point the tires and wheels are from the Ala Kart, that may change the project moves forward. Paint plans are either Chrysler Poppy Red or a bright red fingernail polish called Thimbleberry. Hosted on Fotki SABA the club that several of the members here and I belong to is hosting the Billetproof Washington Model Contest on June 27th. I'm hoping to have this completed for that show as I think it would fit in the the overall theme of Billetproof. I'll keep you posted on the progress of these '32 Sedans. As always you comments and suggestions are always welcome.

That's Ok Neal, I probably shouldn't use shorthand when it comes to company names, RMoM is Replicas and Miniatures company of Maryland, Norm Veber produces the best after market resin parts and pieces for the Ford Flathead. Fortunately, for all of us his line is not limited to flathead parts only as RMoM has trans kits for several models not produced by the little 3 model mfg. I have not found a single part that came from Norm's operation that is not 100% first rate. If you're building Hot Rods, Street Rods even Ferrari's you need to be doing bushiness with Norm.

600 is way to aggressive to use to sand in between coats of paint unless you're looking to sand back to bare plastic. All you're trying to do is to knock the high spots down and give the next coat a smooth surface to work with. Personally, 2000 as my girt of choice for sanding between coats. Anything rougher takes off to much paint and leaves surface scratches the next coat of paint has to fill. As Donn indicated the smoother the surface the better. Even if you have a perfectly mirror smooth surface the solvents in the paint will allow the different coats to bond together.

Well it's been one of those weeks where if it could possibly go wrong it did in spades. Managed to get 1 of the 3 '32 Sedans completed for the Inner Club Challenge between SABA, the club I belong to , and Lane Auto Modelers from Eugene. So here is the first completed build of the Sedans: Hosted on Fotki Body and chassis are straight from the box with changes to the axles to drop the ride height. The kit supplied flat head gave way to the flat head from the '50 Ford Pickup. The Ardun hears were used along with a S.C.o.T.s Blower from RMoM, this has to be the best cast resin part on the market today. The S.C.o.T.s is topped by 2 0f the Stromberg 97s from the '50 Ford pickup and a Thicksun Air Cleaner also from RMoM. A Parts by Parks pre-wired distributor was used. The exhaust headers are from AMTs Phantom Vicky with sculpting wire bent to shape to connect to the kit supplied exhaust pipes. The wide white wall tires are from the Revell '29 Pickup. The Radir wheels are out of the '64 Thunderbolt. The front and rear frame spreader bars were replaced with aluminum tubing.

The "shocky things" are quarter elliptical springs, I got the idea from a rod with a suicide front axle. Thet are from a '50 Ford Pickup, They still need a set of radius rods built for them. The engine is now wired. Even with the '32 Sedans in the works for the Challenge it's taking shape. As for Saturday, Good Lord willing I'll be there.

Andy, I think if an Airflow fell into your bucket of rubber you'd have more taker then you might imagine.

Kev, you posted your original admission of being a bad trader on May 28th and it took you until yesterday to get around to a follow-up. Your initial post should have included what you planed to do to remedy the situation. Instead it was along the lines of "I'm a bad trader deal with it!" Some advice for the future young man, you and you alone are responsible for your actions. If you can't follow through on your end of the deal don't get involved in the first place. To have members of other forums hunting you down a year and a half later because of poor trading indicates this is an ongoing issue. To lay your lack of follow thru on school and the Governor is not being responsible for your actions. I to have gone to school and know the rigors of that type of schedule. It you get up at 9 and don't have time to get your end of trades shipped, I would suggest you get up at 8, the post office is open then. There is not a one of us who is not dealing with the current economic situation it makes no difference whether it's in California or Oregon, so to put the blame on the Governor is like trying to blame it on the guy running the neighborhood 7-11, it doesn't fly. We all have had to adjust our spending. It's great that you parents are willing to help you but it still doesn't make the fact that you have been not completing your side of the deal right for a considerable amount of time right. My biggest concern is that you have no idea what you owe to who. Your responsibility as a trader is to know who you owe what to. The fact that you expect theses people who you have taken money or kits from to tell you what you need to send to them is totally unacceptable. That to me is total disregard of their part of the bargain, and shows total disrespect for them and this forum where you have contact with them. This is a situation you and you alone have created and you are the only one who can correct it and it needs to be done in a timely fashion. To be mad and angry with others for a situation you have created needs to cease as well, it does nothing to clear up the problem at hand. Bottom Line, Kevin, it's time to put on your big boy pants and MAN up. Remember REPUTATION is everything. I've tried to keep this as non-personal as possible as there are several that you owe who are friends it's just my $.02 worth of wisdom. Good Luck

The best thing I can tell you is take your time and be patient. In order to achieve the shine and depth of some of the paint you see here takes hours of working the paint. The process I use is no different then if I were painting a full sized auto. Each and every layer of paint is block sanded to get rid of orange peel and imperfections before the next coat is applied. Avoid using hobby Enamels as they tend to never fully cure. The use of automotive paints, fingernail polishes and lacquers will yield a much superior finish. A lot of the models are shot with at least 1 coat of clear then polished out. My personal preferences are PPG Sealer/Primer which allows me to paint over any color plastic with no bleed through even when the base plastic is red and the color coat is white. I follow the sealer/primer with the color coat, I spray on average 4 light coats of color then top it off with 2-4 coats of Catalyzed Urethane Clear. The only thing you have to remember with the Catalyzed paint is it is basically a 2 part epoxy clear and you need to make 100% sure you have your equipment cleaned up before it has a chance to setup in the airbrush. From there polish it out as needed, but with the Catalyzed Urethane Clear that normally isn't needed.

Dave, this has got to be one of the coolest '40 Sedans I've seen in a long time. Love the chop, it is spot on perfect. If memory serves the chrome trim on the 1:1 is actually paint, but it would be amazing to replicate it in actual trim. As everyone else has said I'll be watching this build. Keep up the fantastic work my friend. Bernard, it's just that we hangout on sites that don't allow Billet wheels. There are lots of other builds in the PNW with big wheels. Like this '39 Chevy Sedan that I need to get finished: Hosted on Fotki

This is what happens when a treat of Krylon Semi-Flat and Testors Metalizer is followed through on. This is the look I was hoping for from the start of the build. After 4 coats of Testors Magnesium Metalizer and 2 coats of Metalizer Sealer.

Brother Jeff, from what I've seen any of us that go up against any Willys that comes from LaLa land had better bring our "A" game otherwise we had better be ready to settle for second best. Say to everyone in the southland for us, talk to you soon my friend.

After a suggestion from a friend yesterday I went on a scavenger hunt in the garage to recover the grille from the Jaguar XK Saloon. After reworking a Revell '29 track nose to a reasonable height here is what I came up with. It's only roughed in at this point and will require a bit of putty and reshaping to surround the Saloon grille correctly. This should give you an idea of the length and height of the '29 compared to a stock '32 Sedan: A look at the underbelly of the beast: The Frame and engine: Hosted on Fotki I'm not overly thrilled with the paint at this point, it is a long way from what I envisioned it to be. At this point I'm thinking about sanding it back down to the primer, laying on a coat of Krylon Semi-Flat black then going after it with Testor's Metalizers to get the bare metal look that I want it to have. Thoughts? Comments? Ideas?

Jose, I can't say that I have flipped the beast on it's side and taken any photos, but, I will and have them posted before the weekend is over.

It's 2 part epoxy putty. AMT use to package it in custom car kits in the early to late '60s. You could drive down to your local hardware store and buy the exact same stuff the Billy promotes. If you figure in the cost of shipping and handling you won't save a dime between his price and what you can buy locally. The one big problem with the stuff Billy does the commercial for is that it's extremely course meaning that it's porous. You'd be much better off to buy Milliput Superfine putty. The stuff that Billy sells and the stuff from the local hardware store will most likely need a coat of spot filler over it to close up the holes in the finished surface. The other thing to be concerned over is the curing time of the putty. The faster it cures the more catalyst will be required to cause it to set up properly. For the most part this is nothing you can control. I bought a "Fix-it-Stick" putty at Lowe's about a month ago. I didn't pay any attention to the instructions because I've been using 2 part putty for decades. The Fix-it-stick got so hot that within 5 minutes I could no longer hold it in my hands. Invest in Milliput Superfine Putty, you'll be glad you did.

This has turned in to one of those builds that you spend time on when you're waiting for paint to dry, putty to set, you get the picture. The basics of the build are a Jimmy Flintstone '29 Rat Rod, a seriously stretched Revell '31 Ford Sedan Chassis, a Revell Germany Jaguar XK SS straight 6, tires and wheels from the Mystreion. And lots of other bits and pieces from the parts drawers. And way to many kits to list. Needless to say it has a long way to go before it reaches completion. So, here is where it sits today, the body has been painted It is what Plasti-coat calls Cast Iron, still needs to be sanded out and clear coated. The clothe roof insert will be Polly S Doped Linen which is a yellowish gray like that of wing covering of WW1 aircraft. Hosted on Fotki Still to add, a Firewall and floor from aluminum soda cans, RMoM aircraft seats, scratch built 6->2 exhaust headers, radius rods up front, 4 link in the rear. All of which sound simple enough when there's time to do the building. Yes the fuel tank is a Mini BIC lighter with the ends removed and the center sectioned to narrow it up. Your Comments and impressions and ideas are always welcomed.

Dennis, there have been several resin casters over the years that have offered a '48-50 Panel Delivery. It's one I have never bought but think about it often, just other projects take the hobby dollars before a body can be procured. A quick search of Rocketfin Hobbies turned up two from resin casters, one that I don't think is in business any longer and one that is. Here are the links to the pages: All American http://www.rocketfin.com/resin_product.cfm?id=2286 Mason City Miniatures http://www.resinrealm.net/-MCM/TRUCKS/50Fo...elDelivery.html Also, SJS (no longer in business) had a '48 Mercury Panel Delivery: http://www.rocketfin.com/resin_product.cfm?id=2288 The All American and SJS pieces turn up from time to time on ebay and at swap meets, they're out there if you truly want one.

The biggest problem throughout the build came from paint. The Testor's One Coat didn't like the Pacific Northwest humidity. Requiring a brief stay in the Purple Pond. Repainting with HoK Snowwhite Pearl turned out to be a better choice. Even though there were a couple of edges where the paint still bubbled up. I don't know if there was still a bit of CSC that didn't get washed out but it only showed up after the base coat was applied not the primer. The bed mounted exhaust pipes were a bit of a challenge. In order to get the 90 degree bends in the tubing a solid piece of brass wire was inserted in the tubing. There were times when the wire slipped and the tubing collapsed. The kit itself was never a problem, it was a few little thing around the build that stretched me to my limits at times. BUt, the results were well worth it. Thank you all for your kind words.

Completed May 21st. Link to the topic Under the Glass: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20378 Thank you.

Well it's finally finished. It only took from November last years but it's finished. As much trouble the build gave me it's lucky it didn't get the spaghetti test. You know the one where you throw it up against the wall and if it sticks it's done. So, here it is the '50 Ford F1 Mild Custom: Hosted on Fotki Thank you every one for your encouragement and kind words throughout the build.

I scrapped the idea of scratch building new interior door panels but still didn't want to use the stock '50 units either. So, with a little rework the '58 Edsel Pacer pre-paint kits panels were used along with it's seat, steering wheel and column. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki And here's the T-Bird engine from the Mysterion in it's new home. Hosted on Fotki Hopefully, there will be more photos later or better yet it will find it's way under the glass by the end of the day.

When talking about building after 1970, you run into the idea of building Chrysler "K" Cars. I don't know about you but I didn't feel my pulse rate go up even 1 beat per minute when I think about "K" cars. The big three blew it. They wanted to rest on the idea that the American auto buyer would remain true to them. By the time they figure out they were wrong it was WAY to late. After all how many warmed over Camaro, Mustang and Corvettes can you build before you start building pre-1970 or Tuners?

Scale Auto Builders Ass'n (SABA) will be the host club for the model car contest at Billetproof Washington 2009. The Model Car Contest will be a one day event on Saturday June 27th. Entries will be accepted from the 9am - 2pm with awards at 4pm. Billetproof Washington 2009 will be held at the Southwest Washington Fairgrounds located at 2555 N National Ave in Chehalis, WA. For more information about the model contest contact saba.northwest@gmail.com or sabanw.org. For general information about Billetproof Washington 2009 contact Billetproof.com Hope to see you there.

This has been the roughest build I've been involved in for quite some time. It has fought me the entire way since the first coat of primer was applied. The 2 tone bed cover died a quick death and was replaced by the bed cover from an AMT '53 F100. But, today it cooperated as I shot 4 coats of Omni urethane clear. The interior still needs to be completed. Glass and exhaust need to be installed and a final rub out. Hosted on Fotki Hopefully, it along with a pair of '32 Sedans will be completed for the Inner Club Challenge on JUne 6th.

The May meeting was lightly attended but the quality of the models was a s good as always. With the Model of the Month going to a 1/64 scale Jeep Grand Wagoneer, built by our own Brizio. Hosted on Fotki More on the Fotki page: http://public.fotki.com/dcfletcher/saba/2009/may/ SABA will be changing Meeting Locations for the months of June, July and August. We will be meeting at Round Table Pizza at 10389 SE 82nd Ave, Portland.

More and More impressive all the time Big Jeff. Looks like another contender for the Best of the Best.