Fletch

Lyle, that's to funny. The worst part is I think I know which one of our members it was. He's a drafting engineer for a company that does the initial work ups for the Bonneville Power Administration. He's a great guy but there are days you wonder which planet he's on. It's not quite as bad as one of my wife's co-workers boyfriend. She was telling him about Dracula and that he lived in Transylvania. He straight faced asked her if that was someplace in Pennsylvania. Another college educated mind. Then there was the time she had the novel Moby Dick laying on her coffee table. He ask her is he had written any other books. Not if Melville had written any other books but if Moby Dick had written any other books. Last week I couldn't even spell graduate now I are one!

Not a great deal of models at the March SABA Meeting. I think we're all decompressing from the Bob Paeth Portland Classic and the Portland Roadster Show last weekend. Hosted on Fotki http://public.fotki.com/dcfletcher/saba/2009/march/

It would seem that Mr Flintstone has come up with a body style that several of us like. I'm a little further along then Steve as I have the windows cleaned out. Not sure where I'm headed with mine so it sits on the shelf along with several other projects.

You can't go wrong using parts and bodies from RMoM, Norm's products a 100% class. Sweet build, if you hadn't mentioned that this was your first street rod that you have built I'd have never guessed. Great job.

Thanks for the heads up George, I had forgotten about Star. I checked his website and he doesn't list a '37 Chevy Flat Back Sedan but does have a 4 door hump back and that is what he may need to do is convert it to the body style he needs. But, when he sees the $53 price tag he'll have a cow. Something about squeaking when he walks.

Jody, the Testors "White Lightning" needs to be treated just as you would a candy color. It is extremely translucent. If your base coat isn't perfect don't expect the Testors to correct it as I will 100% guarantee you'll be stripping it down to start over. And yes this is from experience. As many have suggested if you can at all use HoK, you'll have much better results. IMHO

Guys, I've been sent on a quest by one of my fellow club members that doesn't have a computer. He is looking for a '37 Chevy Flatback Sedan in either 1/24 or 1/25th scale. Stock height roof is needed as there is a die-cast of a chopped roof. Any ideas of who may have produced one would be of great help. Thanks Dave

After seeing the drawing I have a better understanding of what Don was trying to capture. Before looking at the drawing I was like "Da*n, that is one ugly car". Guess it's all a matter to taste.

Jeff, it was a pleasure to have you join us for the first major event after Bob's death. As you no doubt found out during your stay Bob was instrumental in establishing SABA and was the driving force behind the Portland Roadster Show Model Car Contest. Bob's death was a shock to us all. He left a legacy for us to carry on. Without him I have serious doubts that we would have the model car culture in Portland that we do. To have you and others from around the world attend the show this past weekend attests to the influence bob had on our hobby. I thank you for your kind word and I will pass them along to the club members as we go through the debrief process this next weekend. Rest assured that the legacy and insanity that was Bob Paeth is alive and well in Portland. It goes without saying my friend that we will welcome you back anytime you want to visit. The next time we're in SoCal we'll be in touch. Dave

It's coming together nicely Mike. The stance looks right, it should be killer.

Just finishing up posting the last of the photos from the Bob Paeth Portland Classic the Best of the Best at the Portland Classic. We had entries from all over Oregon and Washington. Jeff Miller, (Hizoot) flew in from Southern Calif. A fantastic modeler by the name of Steven Carpenter drove up from Arizona. And a young man that had just moved from Italy to America brought models in. Three of the builders traveled more then 500 miles to attend the show. We had 37 entries from 9 builders in the junior category with Trevor Olson from Bend, Oregon taking the Best in Show-Junior Award for his '53 Chopped F-100. The final total for number of entries was 367 with 6 of them deserving Best in Show honors. After much deliberation it was decided to award Best in Show-Senior to Steven Carpenter for his 1/16th scale Blue Max Funny Car. The Best of the Best contest was reintroduced this year. Any entry into the Best of the Best had to have won a Best Of at some show sometime. Fir the first year back with this event we had 24 entries that had won everything from Best Paint to Best os Show. A panel of judges examined each entry to find the one build that was the very best of all these previous winners. The judging was based on a 0-25 point scale over 4 different categorizes that included, Engine, Detail/Chassis, Interior, and Finish. When the final numbers were totalled the top 3 builds were 3 points apart with Jeff Millers '40 1/2 Willys Coupe being names the Best Of the Best for 2009. Hosted on Fotki Congratulations to all the winners. Hope to see you all back next Year.

Photos from day #2 of the Bob Paeth Portland Classic Model Car Contest and The Best of the Best have been added to the galleries. http://public.fotki.com/dcfletcher/model-c...aeth-portland-/ http://public.fotki.com/dcfletcher/model-c...of-the-best-at/ More tomorrow.

Here are some pics and a link to today's installment of the Portland Roadster Show. A Mercury Pickup Here is the link to the gallery: http://public.fotki.com/dcfletcher/automot...-roadster-show/

Here are the first round of photos from the 39th Annual Bob Paeth Portland Classic Model Car Contest. We started taking in entries at Noon today and closed the doors at 9pm. A total of 311 models were entered today with Friday and Saturday to go. This is the largest show we have had in 10 years. Hosted on Fotki More photos tomorrow as well as pics from the main show floor. The link to the Bob Paeth Portland Classic: http://public.fotki.com/dcfletcher/model-c...aeth-portland-/ The link to the Best of the Best at the Portland Classic: http://public.fotki.com/dcfletcher/model-c...of-the-best-at/

I fully understand Bernard. You are so right about the number of shows in the Pacific NW. We're not sure what to expect at this years show as the Portland Rod and Custom show use to be 2 weeks before the Roadster Show. Since that show is out of business, at least for this year. We don't know if we will see a dramatic increase in entries since the last model show/contest was the first part of November last year. Have a safe and enjoyable trip to the bay area and we'll see you at the NNL next month. Dave

When it comes to figuring out dimensions for building, I have always used the rule of 1/24 is 1/2" Scale. The comes out to 1/2" on a model is equal to 12" on the 1:1. For 1/25 is very close to being a metric scale where 1mm is equal to 1". So, 1mm on a model would equal 1" in the 1:1 world. Granted it' it's not exact but it's close enough. .040 is so close to 1mm it's not even worth quarreling over. So, if I'm going to chop a top 4", I'll measure 3-3.5mm and know that I have a little fudge factor for the saw as well as leveling the roof to the body. If someone were to ask how much I chopped the top my response is always, "Some where around 4 scale inches. As a former model railroader exact measurements were nice when building a replica of a locomotive or caboose. Or for cutting openings for windows or doors etc. But, so much of building on the Model Railroad side is still trying to make it look right. On the model car side of things all I am concerned with is getting the general dimensions close and trying to get "The Look" correct. Remember, unless you're modeling replica stock, this hobby is all about using your imagination. To get hung up on whether a build was chopped or sectioned the exact number of inches is a waste of time and resources.

Move in and set-up are today March 5th. Bring your model today from 1-7 and receive a pass to get into the 53rd Portland Roadster Show free sometime over the weekend. There is no cost to enter the contest. However, entries brought in after today will have to pay the admission into the Roadster Show. Hope to see you there, Dave

Bernard, I'm hoping that the illustration is going to be a representation of the kit when it is released. If it is even close Revell will have hit a Home Run.

Very Cool build Lyle. I have been looking at the RMR '41 Panel body but hadn't found one to look at or a pic of the rear of one of them. It looks relatively accurate. The color, graphics, and wheels all look good together.

David, that chassis is unbelievable. OCD or not that is a work of art. Looking forward to seeing this one move forward.

The part number for the 12oz can of Dupli-color White Sandable Primer is DAP 1689. It may take a couple of coats to cover the gray primer. A light sanding between coats should be sufficient to give you a nice sommth surface for your final color coats of the Tamiya White.

Like James suggested Keep going. Coming from James, who is in my book the king of weathered, that is great advise. Looking forward to seeing this progress.

This week picked up the Revell '32 Ford Sedan and '40 Ford Good Guys Coupe. and the normal supplies. Just got a call from them that the Jimmy Flintstone '25 Tall "T" and '27 Track roadster bodies are in.

Dennis & Dave, yeah the weathered thing is brand new to me. I have been able to pick the brain of a couple of the guys over on TRaK who do weathering. Yesterday the panel was in light gray primer as a barrier coat. Today it's in dark gray primer to start layering the colors for the finish as I want it. The doors are going to be mask off and sprayed Dover white as in the pic of the 1:1 the doors were obviously at some point were white or least a whitish primer. Then the whole thing will get shot with Tamiya olive drab. The Tamiya TS-5 is more a blackish green than what I would consider a true Olive Drab. Then the fun starts of sanding through the layers to achieve the look that I want. After all that then the rusting process begins. From what I understand there is a product at Micheal's that is a 2 part process. You apply the rust base where you want it, then follow it up with the rusting agent. From what I've been told the rust agent is actually an oxidizer and the base has metal mixed in. Others have recommended using the Rust-it product. I have picked up the Tamiya "Weathering Master" pack B which has Snow, Soot and Rust for the colors. It kind of looks like an eye shadow make-up kit. The thing to keep in mind is that rust can be a broad range of colors depending upon how new or old you're trying to represent.

I picked one of these up years ago at a swap meet. About the only thing that is usable is the wire wheels. You'll have to dechrome them as you'll need to do some work to make them look good but that's about it for the high points of the kit. As Lyle indicated it's an old Palmer offering. So, expect the detail level to be early '60s, not that that you would like to see from a "new" kit. Do not get the '32 RPU and the "32 full cab mixed up with the old AMT now Lindberg '34 Pickup. The only thing the 3 have in common is being released by Lindberg.