Fletch

Have you tried the ELO product for Testors? I've used it off and on over the years. It was first marketed under the Polly-s label then under Floquil now testors. I don't now how much they may have changed the formula over the years but under the Polly-s label this stuff would wash paint off. It's not cheap by any stretch of the imagination at $11.33 for 8oz. Take a look: http://www.testors.com/product/137350/F542...ecal_Remove_8oz.

Very Cool Marcus, I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

While I like the overall look of the chopped version there are several of the styling ques that I do not like at all. The front end just doesn't work for me. I like the custom '46-'48 Chevy grille but the molded in headlights and frenched turn signals don't work at all. I do like the chop as it gives that Zephyr look, and the back window of the '41-'48 Fords fit that look perfectly. I would be tempted to french the headlights and mount both the turn signals and taillights in the Desoto bumpers. The focus of this build will have the beltline chrome but not the strips above the fender openings. With the exception of the engine pretty much all the parts will either be out of newer '40 something Ford kits or from the parts drawers. As for the progress on the Chopped '40s. I'm putting together an order for Norm Veber at RMoM for the parts and pieces for the Salt Flat version. The Willys frame has been stretched for the Street Rod version. I need to do some more searching for the tires and wheels from the Lincoln Pro-street to put under it. And the custom version is just vegging at the moment. Before I get much deeper in any of these builds I need to finish the '50 Ford Shop Truck and 2 '32 Sedans for the Inner club challenge that SABA (the club Treehugger Dave, James W, Jairus and I belong to) and LAMA (the club from Eugene) have going. They need to be finished by the middle of next month. Good thing I tend to round robin build or there would be a whole lot more unfinished builds around here.

While I like the overall look of the chopped version there are several of the styling ques that I do not like at all. The front end just doesn't work for me. I like the custom '46-'48 Chevy grille but the molded in headlights and frenched turn signals don't work at all. I do like the chop as it gives that Zephyr look, and the back window of the '41-'48 Fords fit that look perfectly. I would be tempted to french the headlights and mount both the turn signals and taillights in the Desoto bumpers. The focus of this build will have the beltline chrome but not the strips above the fender openings. With the exception of the engine pretty much all the parts will either be out of newer '40 something Ford kits or from the parts drawers. As for the progress on the Chopped '40s. I'm putting together an order for Norm Veber at RMoM for the parts and pieces for the Salt Flat version. The Willys frame has been stretched for the Street Rod version. I need to do some more searching for the tires and wheels from the Lincoln Pro-street to put under it. And the custom version is just vegging at the moment. Before I get much deeper in any of these builds I need to finish the '50 Ford Shop Truck and 2 '32 Sedans for the Inner club challenge that SABA (the club Treehugger Dave, James W, Jairus and I belong to) and LAMA (the club from Eugene) have going. They need to be finished by the middle of next month. Good thing I tend to round robin build or there would be a whole lot more unfinished builds around here.

While I like the overall look of the chopped version there are several of the styling ques that I do not like at all. The front end just doesn't work for me. I like the custom '46-'48 Chevy grille but the molded in headlights and frenched turn signals don't work at all. I do like the chop as it gives that Zephyr look, and the back window of the '41-'48 Fords fit that look perfectly. I would be tempted to french the headlights and mount both the turn signals and taillights in the Desoto bumpers. The focus of this build will have the beltline chrome but not the strips above the fender openings. With the exception of the engine pretty much all the parts will either be out of newer '40 something Ford kits or from the parts drawers. As for the progress on the Chopped '40s. I'm putting together an order for Norm Veber at RMoM for the parts and pieces for the Salt Flat version. The Willys frame has been stretched for the Street Rod version. I need to do some more searching for the tires and wheels from the Lincoln Pro-street to put under it. And the custom version is just vegging at the moment. Before I get much deeper in any of these builds I need to finish the '50 Ford Shop Truck and 2 '32 Sedans for the Inner club challenge that SABA (the club Treehugger Dave, James W, Jairus and I belong to) and LAMA (the club from Eugene) have going. They need to be finished by the middle of next month. Good thing I tend to round robin build or there would be a whole lot more unfinished builds around here.

If the guy had stuck with $30 I still would have bought it as that would have been a better price then evil bay as most of the buy now are at $35.99 and above. The thing I have found with these kits, both the Coupe and Convertible is you have to tape the cowl, doors and trunk together before you glue any part of it to the fender ass'y. When you start gluing work from the trunk to the cowl otherwise the door opening end up to large and out of alignment. The other problem is as George hinted at and that is the doors being able to open. The kit has the doors opening like they would if the hinges were on the outside of the body. This would have been correct on pre-war Fords but not on post-war cars. The fix is to eliminate the door hinges from the kit and make hinges that will allow the door leading edge to break inside the body not outside as most die-cast. The hinges will be just the opposite of what comes in the kit. The fixed location will be inside the cowl not the door as in the kit. I'll get some photos of the way the hinges should work posted in the next day or so. I have no idea where the molds for this kit ever ended up, I've heard rumors that they are in Japan and that they were thrown out. Either way it's unfortunate as the kit is still the best representation of the '48 Fords IMHO.

One of the kits from years ago that I've always had a soft spot for is the IMC/Tesotrs/Globe '46-'48 Ford Coupe and Convertible. They were always a bit of a challenge due to being a flat kit. But, if you were willing to invest the time and effort you can come up with a pretty nice completed build. I look for the coupe kit at any and every swap meet I attend. Hosted on Fotki This past Sunday in Seattle was no different. After getting setup to shoot the show I wandered around selecting the models I wanted to photograph. I spied a Testors version of the coupe. The guy had it priced at $50, realistically about $15 to much. I ask if the price was firm and he said yes that was what he wanted for it. My reply was at $50 you'll be packing it back home. This was around 10am. I made another trip around the room at noon to see if anything new had arrived. Sure enough the '48 was still sitting there but the price was now marked down to $40. Of course I had to be a smart Alec and ask how firm that price was. He replied he couldn't go any lower. I walked away and finished selecting the builds I want for the magazine. Around 2:15 we were starting to pack things up for the drive home when this guy walks up with the '48 in his hand. He says would you be interested in it for $30? I replied not as interested as I would be if it were $25. He replies well I have to pay for the root canal somehow, $25 it is. So, here is my $25 Testors '46-'48 Ford Coupe. I love the lines of fat fendered Fords, there is nothing else like them. My goal for this build is to update the 40+ year old chassis with newer Revell '40 Ford components from the Good Guys version. Replace the kit flat head with that of the Revell '48 Ford Convertible. Dressing that Flatty up with parts and pieces from MCG, Parts by Parks and RMoM. The basic plan is to build a Boulevard Cruiser. The use of the Flat Head will set the era some where after 1948 and will be pretty much relent upon the wheels and tires to determine the date of the build. The kit chassis with the Revell '40 frame members, drop axle and split wishbone installed. The rear cross member still needs to be removed and the Revell pieces installed. Hosted on Fotki The stance from several angles: Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki I don't know if the Good Guys Tires and wheels will be the final version, it could just as easily end up with Wide Whites and Caddy Sombreros by the time it's finished. . The color is a going to be a Jade Green from a stash of automotive lacquer a friend gave me a couple weeks ago. If I can get it to sit something like this I'll be happy: Hosted on Fotki But, this one is very cool as well. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki I'm thinking I need another Testors '48 Ford coupe. Your comments and suggestions are always welcome.

Come on Brother you know me better then that there's around 150 photos in the album on Fotki, here's the link: http://public.fotki.com/dcfletcher/automot...and-transmissi/

James, that is a killer build, I have to admit it's not one that I've ever thought of doing. I'm glad you brought it to our attention. I'm looking forward to seeing this completed. What about something like this as a basis for your build? Hosted on Fotki One of the 750+ cars at Portland Transmission Cruise this past Saturday.

Thank you to all the wives and mothers that allow us to play in this hobby. Take some time to show your mother, wife, or significant other how much you appreciate them. Honor them for allowing us to play. Be Blessed.

Happy Birthday Dave!!!!!!!!!!!! Here's to hoping you have a Blessed Day.

That's coming together nicely Big Jeff. A little off the top, the pancaked hood, the fade away fenders all way to cool.

Raul, I'm happy to see this rise to the top again. The nose job on this is way to cool, it compliments the chop nicely. With just the base color it looks outstanding. Great work as always. Fletch

I somewhat think the point of Agape Models was missed. It's not about what name you choose to call your God, it's about honoring God with the talents he has given you. Does it limit you, of course it does. But, at the same time it allows you to contact with other builders you might never have had to chance to get to know. I felt lead on Easter Sunday to start a Christian based forum. Those here that I knew would be interested were invited to join. So, consider this an open invitation to any and all who have a belief in God, Jesus Christ and the Holy Spirit come and check us out, see if a Christian based Forum might just be the thing you've been looking for. http://focm.proboards.com/index.cgi? In Christ Dave

The 2009 PNW NNL was back on the 18th. The date for the 2010 isn't set as of this moment as the Portland Roadster show's normal date was over booked so they are moving to April 16-18, 2010. Being SABA is the sponsor for the Bob Paeth Portland Classic Model Car Contest at the Roadster Show it would be a bit much to do both the BPPCMCC and the PNW NNL the same weekend. We're shooting for the third Saturday in March which would be the 20th. But, of course it all depends upon the Elks Lodge. If the 20th isn't available then latest we want the NNL is the 27th. That way we'll have a couple of weeks before the Roadster Show. The good thing about the change is we shouldn't have a conflict with the Western NNL in 2010. As soon as I get the word I'll post it on SABA's website it should be sometime in the next couple of weeks. http://www.sabanw.org

Bernard, thank you for posting the link for the Voyager Models Blades. Keep in mind they come in Course and Fine blades. If you do not have a variable speed motor tool get the fine blades as the course blades will chew up plastic and your hands without mercy. And as Bernard indicated, ALWAYS, ALWAYS buy from your LHS is possible. As a former LHS manager I can tell you the dorrs don't stay open because of glue and magazine sales only.

The thing about this process is that it will work on ANY coupe including 33/34, 36, 37, 40, 46-48 and 49 Fords amd Mercs. It will also work on 37, 51 Chevys and the 41 Plymouth. With slight variation it will also work on any of the "Fat Fender" era sedans as well. If you don't have access to the P/E circular blades it's not the end of the world, you'll just have to level the roof side-to-side and front-to-back. On the '40 coupes it makes no difference the manufacture of the kit it will work. I've used the same steps on an AMT, Lindberg and Revell kits, it work equally as well on them all. As I noted in the above post from Raul, if you're going to restore the drip rails make sure the Strip Styrene you use is fresh otherwise be prepared for your frustration level to go sky high as I will assure you it will fracture and break at every curve as soon as you apply the cement of your choice. If you have questions about chopping a '40 or any other please ask. Knowledge of the process is just wasted trivia if not shared. God Bless Dave

Raul, I've been watching your build and I am duly impressed with how your build is progressing. There is a great deal of skill here on the forum that is freely shared. The chop on the '40s follows the style of a 1:1 builder here in Portland. After seeing him take the top down on a coupe in a couple of hours I figured I could use the same process on a model and it works very well. The one thing I didn't put in the tutorial is if you choose to reinstall the drip rails with Evergreen Styrene Strip make sure it is a fresh package. One thing we as builders don't take into consideration and that is the Evergreen has a shelf life. If you attempt to use an old package of Evergreen for the drip rails be prepared for it to fracture at each and every bend. Raul, thank you again for the tips on the Willys-> Ford conversion. Besides by doing the '40 this way I'll be ahead of the 2010 Pacific NW NNL as the theme is "Yeah, It's got a Hemi!" Dave

Len, the full tutorial is on our clubs forum. I have attempted to post it here but I keep getting that it has to many photos. So here are the links, you don't have to be a SABA member to view it. Part 1 - The Chop http://sabanw.proboards.com/index.cgi?acti...d=55&page=1 Part 2 - Reassembly http://sabanw.proboards.com/index.cgi?boar...y&thread=60 It's kind of long winded, but it covers pretty much all aspects of the process.

Just a quick update on the progress on the '40s. The major body work has been completed. The '40 for the BVFCC Salt flat version's roof line was leveled out using a couple of different 2 part A/B putty. The putty used for the center section was the Fix-it-stick at the top of the photo. I picked this up at Lowe's over the weekend. I had never used it before but, figured it was 2 part putty so it should work. This stuff was so HOT in less then 5 minutes I couldn't even touch it. It set up extremely fast. the remainder of the roof fill work was done using Milliput Superfine White putty. The '40 that is going to be the Street Rod version's roof was done using TopFlite's Lightweight Microballons Filler. I've used Microballons in the past with varying results. When I have used them before I've used them and CA type glue as that was how I was instructed to use them. Because of the less then stellar results I haven't gone back to them. For some reason I decided to give them another shot. This time "I" read the instructions and mixed them with 2 part epoxy and guess what they actually work. Sanding and filing are easier then the 2 part putty and it set-up in about 30 minutes. I'm most likely going to borrow some of Raul Perez's idea and incorporate the Revell '40 Willys Street Rod for the running gear for this build. Last but not least is the taildragger version. As this was the one that was thrown together quickly for the NNL the Evergreen and Tamiya Extra Thin Cement never had a chance to fully cure. The roof has now been sanded out and the dip in the roof where the filler piece is now level. Weather permitting I should be able to get this one back in paint later in the week. Hosted on Fotki Both the taildragger and Street Rod versions will get the drip rails reinstalled using .015X.020 Evergreen prior to heading to paint.

Jeff, there have been a lot done considerable worse as well. Your rework of the roof line is spot on. The roof is the one major downfall of the Revell kit and unfortunately the thing most people overlook. Great Build, you should be proud of your work.

Hey Fabrizio, good to see you come aboard. Like Treehugger Dave said Brizio builds some outstanding stuff. This is one of his Jeeps from the PNW NNL a couple of weeks ago: The WW1 tank actually fit inside of a fast food ketchup cup. The term impressive doesn't even begin to cover the workmanship. Umbrellas, isn't that one of those thing that you use during the summer when you're out golfing? You mean you can actually use them to keep the rain off you as well? I knew there was a reason for joining this forum, you learn something new everyday.

For someone who normally doesn't build Street Rods you did this one proud. We don't see many of the AMT 5 wndows built as they are better parts kits then builders. Excellent Build

Lyle, My Friend, that is way to cool. Honestly, I don't think I could have come up with a better use for a 150. I'm looking forward to seeing how this one progresses.

This was a tough one. Normally, I all for chopping a '32 3 or 5 window coupe but, with all the additional body work you've done the stock height has a better look. The photo shopped version seems to take it out of reasonable scale. Without the section I'd say chop it. But, the additional body work would be lost if you were to chop it. Move forward from where you are. IMHO